| Author | Message | ||
| TomD (Tifosi)
Member Username: Tifosi Post Number: 522 Registered: 9-2001 |
thanks, the problem has yet to recurr (knock on wood) but I will keep this in mind | ||
| Felix McArdle (63575)
New member Username: 63575 Post Number: 2 Registered: 10-2001 |
Tom, I had this same (but intermittent) problem on my '86 328. It turned out to be a dodgy throttle-position microswitch. (NOT the airflow sensor one - but the one that is keyed to the throttle-butterfly shaft. I think its only real function is to retard the ignition at idle, once you even lightly depress the accelerator the switch makes and it's then out of the loop. You should buy it from Bosch directly (about half the price of the "Ferrari" part no), Bosch no. is 028 012 0310. Hope this helps, Felix | ||
| TomD (Tifosi)
Member Username: Tifosi Post Number: 488 Registered: 9-2001 |
Update, even though the wife had many things on "my list" for the weekend I did have time to start the car up and take her out. Of course - true to ferrari form the problem is gone, well a least did not reoccur and she ran great up to 6k rpm. This eliminates a few suspected issues but I did not have a chance to get her really hot (no comments here) so that still leaves some possibilites which I will explore when I have time, thanks again for the help. | ||
| Greg Owens (Owens84qv)
Member Username: Owens84qv Post Number: 292 Registered: 10-2001 |
TomD...I had a problem that I posted a while back (December timeframe) where my car had little to no power. It didn't matter what gear I was in, how high I rev'ed the engine...I had no power. I like you had driven my car for 2-3 hours running errands and then parked her in the garage. Next day, took her out and experienced this "no power" symptom. After much fiddling and diagnosing, I discovered that one of the wires to my rear-bank coil was coming unconnected (hitting a bump or a rough section of road). My car started to smell and I actually saw smoke eminating from the rear of the car. With that one wire disconnected from the coil, unburnt fuel was being burned in the catalytic converter and not in the cylinder...THIS IS NOT A GOOD THING!!! Mine was running real rough and back-firing occasionally. Since I've secured the all the connections to the coils, I haven't had a problem yet. Like Ric said, check the spark plugs for color and wetness. If you can diagnose this to a rear-bank versus front bank issue, it is probably electrical, else start looking for a fuel related problem. | ||
| Edward Gault (Irfgt)
Member Username: Irfgt Post Number: 985 Registered: 2-2001 |
The easiest way to determine the reason for the missing power is to hook the car to an oscilliscope. | ||
| Tom Bakowsky (4retom)
New member Username: 4retom Post Number: 5 Registered: 3-2002 |
I had almost the same problem on a 4v mondial. It turned out that the front bank ingition rotor was bad. To much resistance in the rotor did not allow the spark to travel its full output to the terminals in the cap...and thus you have an ignition break down that is very difficult to find. | ||
| Steve Magnusson (91tr)
Member Username: 91tr Post Number: 639 Registered: 1-2001 |
Adam G. -- I rechecked the WSM and the wiring diagram manual, and I butchered that a little bit  : the changing potentiometer resistance measurements should be made between pin 14 and pin 17 (not 10 and 12), and the nominal "full open" value should be ~5300 ohms. The resistance measured between pin 14 and pin 18 should be a constant ~4500 ohms. Good luck... | ||
| Steve Magnusson (91tr)
Member Username: 91tr Post Number: 638 Registered: 1-2001 |
Adam G. -- welcome to the downside of TRs (complexity). The only "sensor" (besides the obvious tach stuff) I can think of which is "RPM" (really airflow) sensitive on the KE-Jetronic is the poteniometer on the side of the airflow/mixture units. I need to check my reference books at home, but I think that if you measure the resistance between pin 10 and pin 12 at each of the (unplugged) injection ecu connectors it should be: 1. about 800 ohms with the (corresponding) airflow plate in the rest position. 2. about 1000 ohms in the idle position (which is about 2~3 mm below the rest position). 3. and about 4~5K ohms in the fully deflected open position and the resistance should vary smoothly as you move the airflow plate from the rest position to the fully deflected position by hand -- perhaps you have a "hole" in one of the potentiometers at the ~3K RPM position and this is confusing it's corresponding injection ecu. These system are so complex that I'll be surprised if this is actually your problem, but it's a relatively simple/easy thing to check so I thought I'd suggest it. (This assumes you have a US version TR with KE-Jetronic) | ||
| Adam Goldman '86 TR (Icnsltmfg)
Member Username: Icnsltmfg Post Number: 294 Registered: 8-2001 |
Both Gas filters were just replaced. Yet it is odd that it only cuts out at exactly 3K but is fine above and below that. | ||
| John A (Jarends)
Junior Member Username: Jarends Post Number: 76 Registered: 7-2001 |
Is it to simple to mention that the gas filter should be checked. I don't know at this writing if there is a gas filter, but I assume there is on all cars. I've had a few cars that quit after a certain RPM was reached and (at least on the American cars I owned)80% of the time a gas filter was clogged and had to be replaced (or am I just dating myself?). | ||
| TomD (Tifosi)
Member Username: Tifosi Post Number: 458 Registered: 9-2001 |
thanks guys for the advise, I need to wait until the weekend to troubleshoot further and then will advise. | ||
| Adam Goldman '86 TR (Icnsltmfg)
Member Username: Icnsltmfg Post Number: 287 Registered: 8-2001 |
Tom; Got a similar problem with the TR. Not all of the time, but in any gear as soon as the engine hits 3K rpm it's like the engine has no power unless I get it above 3.5K and then it runs fine. Under 3K and over 3.5K the runs very strong. New wires, new plugs, and this was going on before and now after the plugs, wires, rotors, caps. Could it be a coil, could it be a cold air sensor or some other fuel sensor. It's odd. Any thoughts? | ||
| Brian stewart (Eurocardoc)
Junior Member Username: Eurocardoc Post Number: 244 Registered: 11-2001 |
Either a coil bad, as Ed mentioned, or the O2 system is out of whack. me, I vote for the O2 system. | ||
| Edward Gault (Irfgt)
Member Username: Irfgt Post Number: 945 Registered: 2-2001 |
I would bet that one bank of your engine is not firing at all. Could be as simple as a loose connection at one of the ignition coils or the coil wire has come off one of the coils. Converters usually do not go out instantly. | ||
| Ric Rainbolt (Ricrain)
New member Username: Ricrain Post Number: 40 Registered: 2-2002 |
The first thing I would check would be the ignition plug extenders. Next, the spark plugs, then the spark wire. RPM related problems are frequently ignition problems on K-jet Ferraris (3.0 and 3.2). Also, a weak fuel pump or partially clogged fuel filter can also cause this problem. | ||
| cory mitchell (Mitch328)
New member Username: Mitch328 Post Number: 16 Registered: 8-2001 |
Tom, Someone else had this problem with the car losing power and running rough around 3-4,000 rpm. From what I gather it turned out to be a collapsed catalytic converter that plugged the exhaust. You mentioned a funny smell so it may be a place to start. | ||
| TomD (Tifosi)
Member Username: Tifosi Post Number: 454 Registered: 9-2001 |
my post might have been misleading, power does not cutout above 3k rpm it justs starts running like crap and the car does not accelerate | ||
| Peter Connolly (Mondial_32_aus)
Junior Member Username: Mondial_32_aus Post Number: 55 Registered: 8-2001 |
I am going thru this on my Mondial 3.2 although not quite the same. My problem is that I seem to have limited power above 5500 rpm, my car won't go over 100MPH. I have had it in at Ferrari Sydney for a few weeks and they are hopeless, tried lots of things came up with nothing. I put it on a dyno and it looks perfect including the Air/Fuel but on the road it lacks power. I am currently suspecting ignition timing and think the only way out is to remove the mechanical fuel & ignition system and put a HALTECH or MOTEC in there for easier diagnosis and tuning. PC | ||
| TomD (Tifosi)
Member Username: Tifosi Post Number: 450 Registered: 9-2001 |
took my 3.2 mondial this weekend. Drove her for about 2.5 hours and towards the end of the drive I stopped at the store. Came out and started her up and from then on she had little power above 3k rpm - gears did not matter. sound from the exhust was almost like the sound you get when you lift off the gas - only thing was I was on the throttle. Almost like she was choking, under 3k rpm was running a little rough but not bad, also had unusual smell. I did not get a chance to let her cool down and see if the problem persisted. It was not an overly warm day though - 65 degrees and enging and oil temp were good, any ideas? Spark plugs, fuel filter are new. |