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magoo (Magoo)
Intermediate Member
Username: Magoo

Post Number: 2288
Registered: 2-2001
Posted on Sunday, April 07, 2002 - 3:00 pm:   

Simon Congrats on you starter removal. It does sound somewhat more of a pain in the ass situation then the average starter removal.
Simon Campbell (Simonc)
New member
Username: Simonc

Post Number: 8
Registered: 2-2002
Posted on Sunday, April 07, 2002 - 5:05 am:   

For anyone interested, I took the starter out yesterday. It wasn't as difficult as I had expected. Removal was quite straight forward:
1) Remove battery for safety
2) Remove relevant air-filter
3) Remove exhaust manifolds from this side engine and from the rest of the exhaust on this side of the car
4) Undo wiring (three wires)
5) Undo easy to get at 19mm lower nut and washer
6) Undo slightly more difficult 17mm (yes 177mm) upper nut
7) Starter drops out underneath the car
The space around the upper nut is a bit tight and I had been warned I might need to make a special spanner but a standard spanner from a Mercedes tool kit fitted perfectly. This is a combination that is 19mm open ended at one end and a 17mm ring spanner at the other, and about 4 inches long.
Now all I have to do is to get it rebuilt and I can then see how difficult it is to refit.

Simon in London
77 400 Auto
Simon Campbell (Simonc)
New member
Username: Simonc

Post Number: 7
Registered: 2-2002
Posted on Thursday, April 04, 2002 - 12:08 pm:   

I think you can do this without removing the carbs but it looks like the manifolds definitely have to come off.
Frank Parker (Parkerfe)
Member
Username: Parkerfe

Post Number: 760
Registered: 9-2001
Posted on Wednesday, April 03, 2002 - 12:59 pm:   

I had a 1977 400GT and it was a great car. i think you have to remove the carbs and exhaust manifold on that side to get to the starter.
William Badurski (Billb)
New member
Username: Billb

Post Number: 41
Registered: 6-2001
Posted on Tuesday, April 02, 2002 - 10:21 pm:   

Don't know if the 400 is exactly the same, but the Daytona starter is held on by one nut over a stud, and one bolt. Both are 19 mm or 3/4" wrench size. On the Daytona, you can get the two fasteners out and withdraw the starter, but it won't fit down through the chassis without removal of the right bank exhaust headers.

Took my solenoid apart and found the two sheets of insulator on either side of the T-bolts (one has the field winding lead attached, the other has the battery cable attached) were cracked and broken into bits. I fabricated two new insulators using the top of a plastic fish food can (no kidding) and a Dremel tool. It works fine now.
magoo (Magoo)
Intermediate Member
Username: Magoo

Post Number: 2209
Registered: 2-2001
Posted on Tuesday, April 02, 2002 - 7:22 pm:   

Nice color Simon, Sounds like it is a classy looking car with the black interior. I started to buy a black one with saddle and didn't go for it but I think I may look for another .
pete gorrell (Rufus)
New member
Username: Rufus

Post Number: 4
Registered: 2-2002
Posted on Tuesday, April 02, 2002 - 6:22 pm:   

Simon;
I think yr engine is pretty much the same as my 330GTS. If so, you can get at it from below fairly easily, but you need to fabricate a special tool by heating a closed-end spanner and flattening it ( so the 'loop' part is on the same plane as the handle, not rising at a slight angle). You need this to get at the bolt head that is on the inner side toward the block. I think the size is 14mm, but the exposed bolt head is the same. Sorry not to be more precise, but I sent the modified wrench on when I sold the car.
Simon Campbell (Simonc)
New member
Username: Simonc

Post Number: 6
Registered: 2-2002
Posted on Tuesday, April 02, 2002 - 11:02 am:   

Th ecolour is Rosso Sir Ivor (a really classy bright red) with black leather and light grey inserts.

The starter is down under the carbs and the exhaust manifolds. I was wondering if it will come out without removing these exhaust manifolds.
magoo (Magoo)
Intermediate Member
Username: Magoo

Post Number: 2202
Registered: 2-2001
Posted on Tuesday, April 02, 2002 - 8:40 am:   

Hey Simon, I'm sorry I guess I read your comment too fast. I missed the "when hot" part of your comment. It does sound like the windings are weak and the added resistance of turning over the engine when hot drags it down. I would think though removing it would not be a big problem it would be kinda like I described below. But then again I am not familiar with the set up. I do know one thing I like the 400. A classy car. What color?
Simon Campbell (Simonc)
New member
Username: Simonc

Post Number: 5
Registered: 2-2002
Posted on Tuesday, April 02, 2002 - 5:35 am:   

Thanks Magoo but I think you may have misunderstood. The starter works fine when the engine is cold. When the engine is hot the solenoid does not always work - sometimes it does, sometimes it doesn't. Seems this is quite a common problem on all the models, including the V8 cars. To sort this out I need to remove the starter/solenoid combo and clean up the connections etc. I'll get ttarter rebuilt at the same time.
magoo (Magoo)
Intermediate Member
Username: Magoo

Post Number: 2199
Registered: 2-2001
Posted on Monday, April 01, 2002 - 10:58 pm:   

Simon, It sounds like the bendix is locked in the fly wheel or the armature is dragging. For certain you will have to remove it. When you do be sure to check the teeth on the flywheel to see that they are not damaged. I am not sure of the removal proceedure on a 400 but maybe some of the other guys can give you that info. I would imagine disconnect the battery terminals then locate the starter and unbolt from the block.
Simon Campbell (Simonc)
New member
Username: Simonc

Post Number: 4
Registered: 2-2002
Posted on Monday, April 01, 2002 - 1:44 pm:   

My 400 is getting very difficult to start when hot. Turn the key and nothing. No click, just a drain registering on the ammeter. I guess it is nearly time for a starter/solenoid rebuild. Does anyone have any suggestions on the best way to remove the starter and what needs to be done to remove it?

Simon in London
77 400 auto

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