| Author |
Message |
kelly vince (Tofosi1)
| | Posted on Friday, July 20, 2001 - 8:37 am: | |
Does anyone know the Bosch part number for the plugs for a 1980 308 GTSI. I would like to put in the plus four plugs if they make them for the car.
Thanks |
Neville Pugh (Nev_Pugh)
| | Posted on Friday, July 20, 2001 - 2:15 am: | |
I've got chapter 13 of the Weber manual in PDF format (thanks John Pragnell !), it's a bit big (2mb) but it's essential if you are going to go anywhere near the carbs.
If anyone wants it, email me privately .... [email protected] |
Neil Green (Neilg)
| | Posted on Thursday, July 19, 2001 - 11:13 am: | |
Guys, thanks for all the helpful information. This is a task I've been wanting to tackle for some time now. |
Steve Magnusson (91tr)
| | Posted on Thursday, July 19, 2001 - 9:16 am: | |
Neil -- the 40DCNF carb data in the 308GT4 WSM will be very similar to all other carbed 308s, but I believe there are some minor "tweaks" over the years (jet sizes, progression hole sizes, etc.). My experience is that the carb (or injection) data with the greatest accuracy is that shown in the correct year/version Owner's Manual. Three things to be familiar with IMHO before attempting this project:
1. Chapter 13 (DCNF family) of the Haynes Weber Carb Manual (gives the overall basics)
2. the WSM 110/75 (obviously very similar to the Haynes stuff, but there are some differing details)
3. the OM (gives the minor changes, if any, since the WSM was published)
Good luck with the work... |
Neville Pugh (Nev_Pugh)
| | Posted on Thursday, July 19, 2001 - 7:24 am: | |
Neil,
Check out the other posting called "How do I synch the carbs", plus this site : http://www.r-design.net/308/techtip5.htm
The info on the float bowl levels is in the 308GT4 workshop manual .... I can't remember the details off the top of my head, but it's pretty easy to do ... just measure with a ruler. Oh, and you'll need new gaskets for the carb tops (though I did get away with using my old ones for a while, till the new ones came)
You can get the 308GT4 workshop manual from http://ferrari.stevejenkins.com/books/ |
Neil Green (Neilg)
| | Posted on Wednesday, July 18, 2001 - 8:15 am: | |
Magoo, do you know if/where a written procedure describing how to synchronize the 4 weber carbs on a 308 exists? I've heard it's pretty tedious, and very time consuming. Would also like to know how to check the float bowel levels. I am in the process of ordering a synchrometer to measure the air flow. If you have any information, it would be greatly appreciated. |
Charles Byrd (Vogel)
| | Posted on Wednesday, July 18, 2001 - 8:03 am: | |
Thanks everyone. I got the plugs changed last night. Have to wash the car now, handprints, but no real problems. I started it and let it idle for a few minutes. Runs much better. I didn't get the plugs that everyone was mentioning, the store didn.t hve them in and I could not wait. Changing was not as bad as I thought, but a helpful thing I discovered was to jack up the rear end of the car so that I didn't have to act like a pretzel to get to the front bank.
Charles |
Warren E. Smith (Magoo)
| | Posted on Tuesday, July 17, 2001 - 11:40 pm: | |
Kelly, What Neil tells you re: the NGK BPR 6EVX plugs is true. I had a very rich gas smell in my 308 GTS. I installed the NGK's but I also installed 2 Accel H.P. coils. I also set the plug gap at .040. Then sync'd the carbs. The car runs great and no more rich gas smell. |
Stewart Chung (Navygakman)
| | Posted on Tuesday, July 17, 2001 - 10:09 pm: | |
I also have a 308GTB and I am now an expert in changing plugs (having changed 4 sets within the last month...long story)
To change the front bank:
- Open the bonnet/trunk lid, no need for removal (thank God)
- Remove the air cleaner cover
- Reach into the plugs through the crack of the open bonnet
It is tight but you can do it using a typical spark plug socket, a 3 inch extension and a 3/8" rachet. You need to connect and disconnect these pieces in place (i.e.down there) in order to get them into the tight space.
If I can do it, you can. ;-) |
kelly vince (Tofosi1)
| | Posted on Tuesday, July 17, 2001 - 4:15 pm: | |
It's been 8 years and 4,000 miles since my plugs were changed. They are Bosch Platniums. My car has that rich smell to, but my plugs look fine. Do you think it's time to change them, maybe to the Bosch 4's.
Thanks
kelly 1980 308 GTSI |
Neil Green (Neilg)
| | Posted on Tuesday, July 17, 2001 - 1:28 pm: | |
Jim, I was able to change the plugs with the engine bonnet left on. It's a tight fit (not easy on the lower back)! but it can be done. I have to remove the rachet from the extender while extracting the spark plug, otherwise there is not enough clearance. With respect to the gas smell, I was referring to the car running rich. The plugs seem to burn better, with the exhaust not so gassy smelling. The car runs rich, but it's better than being too lean. My future plans are to get the Webers rebuilt. |
James P. Smith (Tigermilk)
| | Posted on Tuesday, July 17, 2001 - 12:37 pm: | |
Did you have to take the engine deck off or could you do it all with it still on? Also, by excess fuel smell, what exactly do you mean? Fuel smell in the cabin of the car? |
Neil Green (Neilg)
| | Posted on Tuesday, July 17, 2001 - 10:53 am: | |
Charles, I have the same exact year/model as yours. I recently changed over the plugs to NGK BPR6EVX (platinum tip) plugs. Made a big difference in both performance and helped reduce excess fuel smell. I use a 3/8 ratchet, with a 4 inch extender and spark plug socket. It can be done rather easily with patience. |
Charles Byrd (Vogel)
| | Posted on Tuesday, July 17, 2001 - 9:54 am: | |
Can anyone tell me the best way to change the front bank of plugs on a 77 308 GTB? |
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