| Author | Message | ||
| Greg Owens (Owens84qv)
Member Username: Owens84qv Post Number: 569 Registered: 10-2001 |
Here is the link to the Motive Power Bleeder: www.motiveproducts.com Super easy! | ||
| JPM (John_308qv)
Junior Member Username: John_308qv Post Number: 83 Registered: 4-2001 |
Thanks for the info Greg, I'll check out the website. This will really simplify the spring brake fluid change. | ||
| Crusing (Crusing)
New member Username: Crusing Post Number: 21 Registered: 10-2002 |
Thanks Greg. Where can I pick a Motive Power Bleeder... Any autoparts store?? That seems like the easiest way to go. | ||
| Lawrence Coppari (Lawrence)
Member Username: Lawrence Post Number: 415 Registered: 4-2002 |
The air is pushed into the top of the reservoir pressurizing the reservoir. As soon as enough fluid is bled out at the wheels, the liquid flows through. So unless your are down to the dregs in your master cylinder reservoir, it won't matter. I don't use the kit. I pressurize with air. I just don't run it down too far. Same principle as air in the hose. Just ensure you don't empty the reservoir. | ||
| Greg Owens (Owens84qv)
Member Username: Owens84qv Post Number: 566 Registered: 10-2001 |
John, after you pour the brake fluid into the tank, you pressurize it. From what I was able to see, the fluid was pushed passed any air bubble in the Power Bleeder connection to the reservior. I never got any air bubbles in the line and the reservior was full when I finished. It was the easiest thing I've ever used. The user instructions you get off the web were also extremely complete. | ||
| JPM (John_308qv)
Junior Member Username: John_308qv Post Number: 82 Registered: 4-2001 |
Greg, the Motive Power Bleeder looks interesting (less messing around). Question, when using the power bleeder, is there air in the line from the bleeder to the MS when the bleeding starts? If there is, how does all the air work its way through the system? Thanks John | ||
| Greg Owens (Owens84qv)
Member Username: Owens84qv Post Number: 565 Registered: 10-2001 |
Crusing, another tool to try is the Motive Power Bleeder. Like the others, super simple. With the power bleeder, you pour your new fluid in the "tank", pressurize to 10-15 psi, and attach to the fluid reservior. Attach the drain hose to the bleed valve on the caliper and open the bleed valve. When new fluid starts running out of the bleed valve, close and go onto the next valve. | ||
| Crusing (Crusing)
New member Username: Crusing Post Number: 20 Registered: 10-2002 |
Thanks for all of the help guys! I appreciate it. I am trying to be more involved by trying to do the simpler things myself, and this is a terrific resource. To Dave, I do have the manual as well as the parts book and service manual. This is just an easier way to get the information while I am at the office. And if I had a clue I wouldn't have asked. :p There are plenty of things I don't know so expect more dumb questions.  | ||
| Lawrence Coppari (Lawrence)
Member Username: Lawrence Post Number: 413 Registered: 4-2002 |
I pressurize the fluid reservoir, then open the caliper nipples one at a time from one most distant to closest. About 10 psi does the job quickly. I made a screw on top that seals and can be attached to a compressor hose. I don't like pumping the brake pedal because is is not good to press it beyond where it usually is pressed. Seals can be harmed. | ||
| David Jones (Dave)
Member Username: Dave Post Number: 440 Registered: 4-2001 |
I don't want to sound like a pompous A-hole, but... If you have no clue as to where your master brake cylinder is on your car, you might want to think about getting an owners manual for it. | ||
| JPM (John_308qv)
Junior Member Username: John_308qv Post Number: 81 Registered: 4-2001 |
As a P.S. you can get at the MS without removing the shroud, I've just found it easier to get the top off and clean up any spills if the shroud is off. | ||
| JPM (John_308qv)
Junior Member Username: John_308qv Post Number: 80 Registered: 4-2001 |
Crusing, the master cylinder is in the front compartment under the fiberglass shroud by the windshield. Remove the spare tire and there are about six screws holding the shroud on. Heating/vent ducts are there also. | ||
| TomD (Tifosi)
Intermediate Member Username: Tifosi Post Number: 1938 Registered: 9-2001 |
make sure you use the right brake fluid - see other threads regarding dot 3, 4, 5 - I don't think they are all interchangeable | ||
| john beaucher (Spider348)
New member Username: Spider348 Post Number: 2 Registered: 11-2002 |
I also use the MityVac pump to bleed my brakes. An additional aid is ATE Super Blue Brake fluid. Good product and available in both blue and red. Alternate colors. Allows complete assurance that all the old fluid is removed and new fluid in place. | ||
| TomD (Tifosi)
Intermediate Member Username: Tifosi Post Number: 1936 Registered: 9-2001 |
should be in the front bonnet in front of steering wheel - little plastic resevior with cap that says dot 3 or 4 only | ||
| George Daina (Oof_n_goof)
Junior Member Username: Oof_n_goof Post Number: 125 Registered: 7-2002 |
You don't need any tools, as gravity bleeding will work fine, but the Mighty Vac speeds the process. Yeah, you bleed the farthest wheel from the master cylinder first, that should be the right (pas) rear wheel, then the left rear wheel, then the rt front then the left front.... U fill a small baby jar with 1/4 fluid, then attach a clear vacuum hose to to bleed screw, and have the other end submerged in the brake fluid in the baby jar....just open the bleed screw and watch for the change of color in the fluid. Keep the one end of the tube submereged, if any air in the line, you will see the bubbles. When there is a steady stream of clean fluid, and no bubbles, shut the bleed screw and move on to the next wheel. The gravity method is probably the easiest to do for someone who has not bled the brakes, but tends to be a little time consuming, but it works. I've bled the brakes countless of times, and still use this method with great success. | ||
| Crusing (Crusing)
New member Username: Crusing Post Number: 15 Registered: 10-2002 |
Thanks Mike. This may be extremely dumb, but where is the master cylinder and master cylinder reservoir? Do you have to raise the car to get to the cylinder? Thanks again. | ||
| TomD (Tifosi)
Intermediate Member Username: Tifosi Post Number: 1928 Registered: 9-2001 |
do you need to do the backs first - I thought I remember this or something like it | ||
| mike tarrant (Miketarrant)
New member Username: Miketarrant Post Number: 12 Registered: 8-2001 |
Buy yourself a Mityvac Vacuum Pump (Around $20 I believe). You also need a 8 mm open end spanner for the bleed nipples. The job is then really simple. 1. Use the Vacuum pump to suck 3/4 of the brake fluid from the master cylinder reservoir but take care not to go below the level of the outlet pipes. 2. Top up with new fluid. 3. Attach the Vacuum pump to the nipple on one wheel cylinder with one of the supplied adapters and undo the nipple 1/2 turn. 4. Have your friend keep watch on the master cylinder fluid level while you pump out 1/2 cup of brake fluid. Top up the master cylinder as you go. 5. Tighten the bleed screw while there is still some vacuum reading showing. 6. Repeat on all wheels. Note this proceedure assumes the old brake fluid was not too dirty and the brake lines do not need flushing. | ||
| Crusing (Crusing)
New member Username: Crusing Post Number: 14 Registered: 10-2002 |
I have never done this, and not really interested in spending ~$350 for an oil and brake fluid change on my 85 QV at the dealer. A buddy of mine is willing to help. Do I need any special tools? Is this a job a somewhat handy yet not too experienced diy'er can pull off. What are the steps? Any help will be great. Thanks in advance! |