| Author |
Message |
Craig Williams (Craigw)
New member
Username: Craigw
Post Number: 34
Registered: 4-2002
| | Posted on Monday, December 23, 2002 - 10:03 am: | |
I just had the clutch replaced on my 94 GTS(on saturday), I was told that generally the later cars had single plate clutches however, Italians being Italians this was not a hard and fast rule & some variation occurred. Mine was a single plate. |
Noelrp (Noelrp)
Junior Member
Username: Noelrp
Post Number: 136
Registered: 8-2001
| | Posted on Monday, December 23, 2002 - 10:00 am: | |
How can you tell if the car(F348) has single or dual disks? Can you tell without removing the cover?
TIA! |
joe (Joegazzani)
New member
Username: Joegazzani
Post Number: 2
Registered: 12-2002
| | Posted on Wednesday, December 18, 2002 - 3:31 pm: | |
cool |
JRV (Jrvall)
Member
Username: Jrvall
Post Number: 427
Registered: 11-2002
| | Posted on Wednesday, December 18, 2002 - 11:33 am: | |
Byron, Glad to hear you got it all taken care of and thanx for the feed back on the broken pin. Next time a guy has a problem like yours and bleeding doesn't solve it, we all have another point of reference for a possible fix.
regards, JRV |
Byron (Bmyth)
Junior Member
Username: Bmyth
Post Number: 77
Registered: 10-2002
| | Posted on Wednesday, December 18, 2002 - 10:36 am: | |
Problem solved, guys. It seems one of my guide pins was completely sheered off, and my TO Bearing had completely twisted/shifted in the clutch housing. Anyways, a few loose item parts later (e.g., guide pin, new spring, new seals for the slave) and a few hours of labor with the cool guys at Blackhorse Motors (LA), the car is back in great working condition! |
JRV (Jrvall)
Member
Username: Jrvall
Post Number: 326
Registered: 11-2002
| | Posted on Monday, December 09, 2002 - 2:33 pm: | |
Normal bleeding order: start with corner farthest from master cylinder, repeat process around car 3 times.
clutch uses top portion of brake resovoir...bleed and refill being mindfull not to let fluid fall to low
pump pedals very slow with steady pressure to avoid foaming & churning fluid. go slow.. |
Byron (Bmyth)
Junior Member
Username: Bmyth
Post Number: 61
Registered: 10-2002
| | Posted on Monday, December 09, 2002 - 2:22 pm: | |
Thanks for the tips, everyone. I think what I need to do is to completely bleed the brakes, then the clutch. Hopefully, that will resolve the situation. The consensus appears to be to go with DOT4 Brake Fluid... Other than top off, bleed the brakes, bleed the clutch, then refill reservoir... does anyone have any helpful hints for bleeding order? Thanks.
I'm thinking I should get this done right by a knowledgeable technician... But who can I find to do this on a saturday? Otherwise, are there any knowledgeable F-Chatters in the So.Cal area willing to help me out this sat. afternoon? |
JRV (Jrvall)
Member
Username: Jrvall
Post Number: 325
Registered: 11-2002
| | Posted on Monday, December 09, 2002 - 2:21 pm: | |
Frank is correct...I was going to post the same thing earlier. |
Frank Parker (Parkerfe)
Intermediate Member
Username: Parkerfe
Post Number: 1591
Registered: 9-2001
| | Posted on Monday, December 09, 2002 - 12:56 pm: | |
Do not use DOT 5 unless you plan to change the fluid at least once a year. DOT 5 is silicon based and attracts moisture more that DOT 4. |
Justin Randall Kenyon (Kenyon)
New member
Username: Kenyon
Post Number: 42
Registered: 10-2002
| | Posted on Monday, December 09, 2002 - 12:36 am: | |
Use a high temperature fluid, either DOT 4 or DOT 5. I use DOT 5 on my 348 Spider. Much better at working at higher temperatures. ie No break fade.
|
Eugene Angelo (Eangelo)
New member
Username: Eangelo
Post Number: 17
Registered: 8-2001
| | Posted on Sunday, December 08, 2002 - 11:08 pm: | |
Byron,
JVR is telling you to bleed the clutch fluid system, not just replace the fluid in the reservoir. Bleeding the clutch includes replacing the fluid in the reservoir, but more importantly "bleeding" the old fluid out of the entire system.
Here's how it is done:
1.) You need a friend to help, otherwise you need a "one man bleeding kit".
2.) Push on the clutch pedal.
3.) While pushing and holding the clutch pedal down, your friend is under the car and opens the bleeder valve next to the clutch housing. When he opens the valve the old fluid will rush out. He should close the valve before you release the pedal. Repeat this step several times until you can see the new fresh fluid coming out of the valve.
Goodluck!!
Other F-chaters, please contribute; As I am not a professional Ferrari Technician.
EA |
Byron (Bmyth)
Junior Member
Username: Bmyth
Post Number: 60
Registered: 10-2002
| | Posted on Sunday, December 08, 2002 - 8:27 pm: | |
Argh... Problem is still persisting. Used a baster and took out current brake fluid from brake/clutch fluid reservoir and refilled with new Dot 3 brake fluid (about 2 bottles worth). It seems that the problem still exists once the car is warmed to temperature... so I'm pretty sure it could be the case that the old brake fluid is boiling a bit. I'm just wondering - did I not drain out enough brake fluid? Is there another source to drain the fluids other than the reservoir?
Or... do I just need to repeat this process until most of the current fluid is renewed? |
Byron (Bmyth)
Junior Member
Username: Bmyth
Post Number: 58
Registered: 10-2002
| | Posted on Sunday, December 08, 2002 - 3:03 pm: | |
Thanks for the help. I'm off to the store... was going to go pick up a few quarts of Mobil One Synthetic anyways... |
JRV (Jrvall)
Member
Username: Jrvall
Post Number: 311
Registered: 11-2002
| | Posted on Sunday, December 08, 2002 - 2:58 pm: | |
Regular DOT 3 fluid, just bleed into a bottle using a piece of hose submerged, or one of the sucking type bleeders, either one. Bleed a little, top up fluid and repeat. Not that hard. |
JRV (Jrvall)
Member
Username: Jrvall
Post Number: 310
Registered: 11-2002
| | Posted on Sunday, December 08, 2002 - 2:55 pm: | |
Excellent point, flushing old fluid would be the best place to start. |
Byron (Bmyth)
Junior Member
Username: Bmyth
Post Number: 56
Registered: 10-2002
| | Posted on Sunday, December 08, 2002 - 2:54 pm: | |
Thanks for the tips guys... I may look into that... Dave, what you are describing sounds suspiciously the case b/c the problem seems to appear only when the car has been driven and is really warmed up. Is there a recommended, "best way" to bleed the slave cylinder? What type of brake fluids do you guys recommend? (preferrably something I can pick up at the local store on a sunday...hehe) |
Dave328GTB (Hardtop)
Member
Username: Hardtop
Post Number: 324
Registered: 1-2002
| | Posted on Sunday, December 08, 2002 - 2:49 pm: | |
I had a 94 348 where the clutch would not operate properly when really hot. The problem is not exactly what you describe but, in any event, I changed the slave cylinder fluid which was very icky looking and the clutch was fine evermore. I think, because of the cylinders proximity to the cats, it gets very hot, so old fluid boils. Anyway, it's a cheap/easy place to start.
Dave |
JRV (Jrvall)
Member
Username: Jrvall
Post Number: 308
Registered: 11-2002
| | Posted on Sunday, December 08, 2002 - 2:44 pm: | |
I don't really know of a way to 'see' what the actual problem or combination of problems is/are without looking at the suspects for wear or binding telltale signs. If it's an early 348 I think the fix for sticky/sticking TO's was the 355 TO bearing upgrade. You need to have a close look at everything and see what and why, it may just need to be cleaned and lubed on the sliding surfaces. |
Byron (Bmyth)
Junior Member
Username: Bmyth
Post Number: 53
Registered: 10-2002
| | Posted on Sunday, December 08, 2002 - 2:34 pm: | |
Any thoughts on how I can address this? How can I rule out some of the problems you've listed? The weird thing is that if I let the car cool down and drive again, the problem is gone. It's intermittent. Thanks, B. |
JRV (Jrvall)
Member
Username: Jrvall
Post Number: 307
Registered: 11-2002
| | Posted on Sunday, December 08, 2002 - 2:31 pm: | |
Sounds like the pressure plate is dragging on it's return stroke or the annular TO sleeve is sticking. The PP release/push against the TO bearing is what pushes the fluid/peddle back to rest. So, either the PP isn't freely snapping back to rest or the TO sleeve is dragging as it yries to slide back in to rest.
Could be dragging Master Cylinder but never heard or seen that causing the problem you describe. |
Byron (Bmyth)
Junior Member
Username: Bmyth
Post Number: 52
Registered: 10-2002
| | Posted on Sunday, December 08, 2002 - 2:19 pm: | |
Quick question to everyone... was out driving in my 348, and ran into some clutch issues. I have a 348 challenge with a dual disk metallic clutch. After about 1-2 hours of city driving, the clutch seems to "stick" - the contact point is still very high and I know that the clutch isn't slipping b/c it still grabs very well. However, the pedal would stick about halfway coming up and rise slowly, making it difficult to drive. Is this a problem with the hydraulics in the pedal assembly or is this something I can cure by fluids? I checked the brake/clutch reservoir and it appears full. What can be the cause of this problem? Help! |