| Author |
Message |
Bill Shumaker (Gabriel)
| | Posted on Saturday, September 08, 2001 - 9:28 am: | |
Adam, I'll send you more details unless someone wants it posted here. Meanwhile, the gasket is a reusable item, but you have to take care not to drop the little metal spacer rings. By some law of fate, anything that you drop will go right into the cylinder head ... I didn't use any platform, but it would have been handy. You do need to protect the bodywork, as you will be leaning on/over it during the procedure.
I wouldnt recommend replacing the rectifier itself itself, unless you can tell if the stator needs replacement. It shouldnt cost more than ~$75 for an alternator shop to replace the bridge; more if they replace the stator. However, the forum member, Herbert Gault, knows way more about alternator parts pricing, than do I. |
Adam Goldman '86 TR (Icnsltmfg)
| | Posted on Friday, September 07, 2001 - 11:13 am: | |
Bill; that does not sound too bad of a job. If you could send me the details on the job and where to get the parts it would be great. Also, is there any trick to working on the back end of the car. Do people stand on a platform next to the car or what. Some of the areas look to be soo hard to reach / see. Also if I remove the intake manifold, does it need a gasket set? |
Bill Shumaker (Gabriel)
| | Posted on Friday, September 07, 2001 - 10:10 am: | |
It's the same problem that I had. You have a burned diode or two -soon all three will go (rectifier bridge) and you'll be stuck somewhere with a dead battery. Yes, you can replace the rectifier bridge if you are okay with opening up the alternator and using a soldering iron. Herbert Gault can sell you the bridge inexpensively, but you need to check that the stator isn't fried, as well. I took my alternator to a local shop to be rebuilt. Pretty cheap. To remove the alternator you must remove the grill behind the rear window, then remove the left intake manifold and a couple of air tubes, and then remove the air hose and electrical wiring connected to the alternator. After that, you can disconnect the alternator and lift it out from the top. If you go this route, email me and I'll write you the little things to make it relatively painless. Took me about 3 hours. Once you have the alternator reinstalled, take the TR to the shop that rebuilt your component and have them check the system to see if there are other charging system faults that would cause the problem to reoccur. |
Adam Goldman '86 TR (Icnsltmfg)
| | Posted on Thursday, September 06, 2001 - 9:10 pm: | |
I have the same problem on my 86 TR, The light get's slightly brighter as the RPM's get higher. Is the diode and rectifier bridge replacement a DIY job? Can it be done top side / from bottom.
Adam |
houssam Maghribi (Ham)
| | Posted on Monday, July 23, 2001 - 9:51 pm: | |
Thank you guys for your information.
you are right.The problem found as you said.A diod and a bridge. |
James Pai (Jaymus)
| | Posted on Monday, July 23, 2001 - 1:01 am: | |
I just had a post awhile back about this. Ya, Magoo is right.
But mine goes dimmer at higher RPM :D
All fixed now.
James |
Warren E. Smith (Magoo)
| | Posted on Monday, July 23, 2001 - 12:13 am: | |
Probably a bad diode, rectifier bridge or regulator in your alternator. |
houssam Maghribi (Ham)
| | Posted on Sunday, July 22, 2001 - 11:54 pm: | |
good day guys,
i have this problem and i hope someone will help me to tell what the cause of it.
well,when i start my testarossa 1984 Europe spec.on idle the light of the battry is off.and when i start to accelarate the light start to become more bright and bright with higher RPM.
any body knows why?
thank you guys. |
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