| Author |
Message |
Jeff Green (Carguy)
Junior Member
Username: Carguy
Post Number: 138
Registered: 10-2002
| | Posted on Wednesday, January 08, 2003 - 8:39 pm: | |
Thanks Stephen...I'll re-think my plans. |
Stephen J. MacKellar (89gtb)
New member
Username: 89gtb
Post Number: 4
Registered: 12-2002
| | Posted on Wednesday, January 08, 2003 - 7:47 pm: | |
Word of caution - POR 15 is NOT made for applying to 'clean' metal and will not cover or adhere properly to it. It is specifically made to be applied to a solidly rusted surface after some minor prep work - the more rust, the better it works as it chemically bonds with rust and not clean metal. You can see this for yourself if you paint it onto a clean surface - it will streak and separate. |
Jeff Green (Carguy)
Junior Member
Username: Carguy
Post Number: 135
Registered: 10-2002
| | Posted on Tuesday, January 07, 2003 - 3:22 pm: | |
Thanks to all for the advice. I have been using kerosene and after many hours things are looking better. Under that "maple syrup" stuff there is a nice satin black finish. Geez, my shocks are a cool red-orange color instead of sh## brown. I will use POR 15 and protect the frame where it's subject to rocks and debris. I should have taken a pic of before and after...but didn't think about it. Just a few more hours of elbow grease and I can move on to the next detailing step....in this never-ending process. |
John Whelan (Fodee)
New member
Username: Fodee
Post Number: 19
Registered: 10-2001
| | Posted on Tuesday, January 07, 2003 - 2:10 pm: | |
The best way to strip this stiff is to use a heat gun and a scraper to get off as much as you can. Don't use aircraft paint stripper as it will eat the glass. A propane torch can also be used with care. Just heat the undercoating enough to make it soft and scrape it off. Once You have done that, get some cream style hand cleaner and a small stainless steel brush. Scrub the hand cleaner into the undercoating and wipe it off with paper towels. It's a lot of work but it is worth it. You can also use mastic remover ( get the low odor type). When you are finished repairing the Fiberglass, paint it with POR 15. This stuff is awesome and it will not chip. Go over that with spray on truck bed liner coating. You will never go back to undercoating again. It dries to the touch and lasts forever! If you are really impatient and can stand the odor use fiberglass only paint stripper |
Verell Boaen (Verell)
Member
Username: Verell
Post Number: 487
Registered: 5-2001
| | Posted on Tuesday, January 07, 2003 - 10:38 am: | |
Got curious & searched the web for
+undercoating +(strip,stripper,removal)
Found BMW, Jaguar, & some classic US car sites. 4 out of 5 of them were usinge/recommended using 'Aircraft Paint Stripper' available from most Auto Parts stores (AutoZone has it).
Also use solvent resistant gloves as it's apparently pretty nasty stuff.
The other site recommended the Eastwood Rubber Undercoating Stripper.
All sites mentioned kerosene as being next best.
While cleaning the oil off of my engine with citrus solvent I noticed that it was doing a pretty good job of stripping the undercoating off of the cross-member that's just in front of the oil sump. Nice thing about citrus solvent is that it's water cleanup. |
magoo (Magoo)
Advanced Member
Username: Magoo
Post Number: 3897
Registered: 2-2001
| | Posted on Wednesday, December 25, 2002 - 6:23 pm: | |
I'll bet the base is kerosene mixed with mineral oils. |
Verell Boaen (Verell)
Member
Username: Verell
Post Number: 459
Registered: 5-2001
| | Posted on Wednesday, December 25, 2002 - 11:23 am: | |
Eastwood sells an undercoating stripper.
No experience w/it, but s/b better than kerosene. |
magoo (Magoo)
Advanced Member
Username: Magoo
Post Number: 3894
Registered: 2-2001
| | Posted on Tuesday, December 24, 2002 - 9:44 pm: | |
Jeff, Then so be it. It is a messy job no matter how you do it. Good Luck, Regards |
Jeff Green (Carguy)
Junior Member
Username: Carguy
Post Number: 102
Registered: 10-2002
| | Posted on Tuesday, December 24, 2002 - 8:57 pm: | |
Hello Magoo: There is tons of undercoating on my car, runs and drips all over the place. Looks like crap, and I'm afraid that yet another coat will only make things worse. I want to remove "most" of that crap, and put on a nice even coating with a nice finish to it. As it is the wheel wells detract from an otherwise beautiful car. |
Philip Airey (Pma1010)
Junior Member
Username: Pma1010
Post Number: 77
Registered: 7-2002
| | Posted on Tuesday, December 24, 2002 - 8:36 pm: | |
brake fluid? great "stripper"
Philip |
magoo (Magoo)
Advanced Member
Username: Magoo
Post Number: 3892
Registered: 2-2001
| | Posted on Tuesday, December 24, 2002 - 7:20 pm: | |
Jeff, I don't know why you would remove the undercoating other then to repair the one panel, but I think if you are going to remove all the undercoating Kerosene is the safest way and make sure it is in a well ventilated area. I would saturate rags with the kerosene and let them soak on the undercoating keeping them wet by pouring kerosene from time to time on the rags, towels, until it softens all the way through. At that point you should be able to remove it with a scraper. Messy but if you have to, it should work. |
Jeff Green (Carguy)
Junior Member
Username: Carguy
Post Number: 101
Registered: 10-2002
| | Posted on Tuesday, December 24, 2002 - 5:14 pm: | |
I'm going to refinish the inner wheel wells of my TR, so I've removed all the panels I can. The forward panel in the left-front wheel well needs repairing. Since it's fiberglass it's no big deal. But removing multiple coats of crud and undercoating applied over the years is a job! I'm using kerosene, soaking, and scraping. It will take days and days to do all the panels this way. But I'm not keen on just spraying yet another layer over the "plastered crap" that's on there now. Does anyone have an alternate method they could share? |