| Author |
Message |
Jim DeRespino (Jimbo)
New member
Username: Jimbo
Post Number: 38
Registered: 10-2001
| | Posted on Saturday, December 28, 2002 - 6:51 am: | |
Grazie to Billybob, Verell, Magoo, Steve and Bruno. I have used the pickle fork umpteen times on my GTO's (Pontiac, not Ferrari), but I wanted to be a little more careful with the 512. After a while I just said F*** it, it's just a car and went with the old faithful fork and hammer. The rubber boot was not damaged. Now I have to take the rack apart and see if I can get my other neighbor Kurt to make me some bushings. Won't TRW sell us some repair parts??? |
billy bob (Fatbillybob)
Junior Member
Username: Fatbillybob
Post Number: 109
Registered: 8-2002
| | Posted on Friday, December 27, 2002 - 11:25 pm: | |
"When these 2 fail, it's time for a press type tool, and/or applying heat."
DON'T DO THIS. These parts have special hardening processes and heat destorys this. Use the manual or pnumatic pickle forks or C-clamp type devices that drive the rod end off. personally, I have a feel for giving a precise wack on the end and they pop right off 90% of the time. I use a USAG 380 2000g steel mallet. Rarely do I need to go to the Fork. |
magoo (Magoo)
Advanced Member
Username: Magoo
Post Number: 3917
Registered: 2-2001
| | Posted on Friday, December 27, 2002 - 10:52 pm: | |
Sorry, I read the rest of your post where you used the fork. Just tap around the outside edge of the tie rod where the end goes through and then use the fork. |
magoo (Magoo)
Advanced Member
Username: Magoo
Post Number: 3916
Registered: 2-2001
| | Posted on Friday, December 27, 2002 - 10:49 pm: | |
Jim, Like Bruno, myself and some of the other guys have said here, Why don't you use the impact fork? It works especially for the stubborn ones. Can find at Pep Boys. |
Bruno (Originalsinner)
Member
Username: Originalsinner
Post Number: 836
Registered: 5-2002
| | Posted on Friday, December 27, 2002 - 9:24 pm: | |
I use the fork.When you bang it it forces it right off.Shouldnt damage anything.I use rubber mallot to bang directly on rod when needed. |
Jim DeRespino (Jimbo)
New member
Username: Jimbo
Post Number: 37
Registered: 10-2001
| | Posted on Friday, December 27, 2002 - 8:16 pm: | |
Well, the soup was good. The right side tie rod end came out with the puller smooth as silk. The left side was a no go, so I had to resort to the dreaded fork and hammer (after many whacks as described by Verell below failed to move the beast). The rack is now completely free, and I haven't broken anything, lost any parts or injured myself yet. I did have to remove the brake cooling ducts and the front sway bar to get at the rack attachment upper bolts. I would have it out by now, but Wolfie came by in his Dino and we took the wives out for some chow and a celebratory brewski . Besides, it might dip down into the low 50's tonight here in FLA (brrrr). More fun tomorrow. I'll keep you post-ed. Thanks for the input. |
Jim DeRespino (Jimbo)
New member
Username: Jimbo
Post Number: 36
Registered: 10-2001
| | Posted on Friday, December 27, 2002 - 2:36 pm: | |
Well, I spent most of the morning calling all the local parts stores to no avail. I happened to be bringing some of my famous home-made-with- leftover-Christmas-ham-and-habaneros soup over to my whacky neighbor Bert (known locally as "the Postman Who Knows All Things")and guess what - Bert had the exact tool I need buried in the bottom drawer of his tool box next to the collection of non-functional grease guns. I should have known to check with Bert first. I'm going out to the garage right now and try it (after a bowl of soup of course). I'll let you know. |
Verell Boaen (Verell)
Member
Username: Verell
Post Number: 463
Registered: 5-2001
| | Posted on Friday, December 27, 2002 - 1:41 pm: | |
Jim,
There are 3-4 tools that all do about the same thing.
Harbor Freight sells one that appears identical to the Eastman one:
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=36861
& a slightly larger size:
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=36865
I picked a different style one up from a local auto parts place's $8.88 (or was it their $4.44) 'ToolZone' bargain bin. Looks like a squatty C clamp with a slot on the bottom to go around the ball joint neck.
The last style has a screw driven lever with a pivot in the middle.
Before I dig one of these out tho, I unscrew the nut until it's flush with the threaded end of the ball joint's shaft.
I then give the side of the fitting the ball joint end is inserted into a couple of quick 'raps' with a 8-oz ball pein hammer loosely held so the handle pivots in your hand. Not hard, just enough to shock the taper loose. The hammer head shoud bounce back from the 'rap'. 20% of the time this shocks the taper into releasing. (Same trick applies to getting a taper mounted chuck out of a drill press.)
When this doesn't work, next I give the rod end/flush nut end a quick rap using the same technique. This works on about 80% of the cases that don't respond to technique #1.
When these 2 fail, it's time for a press type tool, and/or applying heat. |
Steve (Steve)
Junior Member
Username: Steve
Post Number: 239
Registered: 2-2001
| | Posted on Friday, December 27, 2002 - 7:55 am: | |
Its just like a mini pitman arm puller. It was designed for tie rod ends.As I mentioned it a little press that protects the boots. I believe you can even buy them from J.C. Whitney. I got mine from Autozone. |
Jim DeRespino (Jimbo)
New member
Username: Jimbo
Post Number: 35
Registered: 10-2001
| | Posted on Friday, December 27, 2002 - 7:52 am: | |
Magoo, the tool I'm thinking about looks like a 2-arm puller. It can be seen at www.eastwoodcompany.com part number 49026. Has anyone used this type of tool? The bottom of the threaded end of the tie-rod has an indent that appears made to accept the end of a puller. |
magoo (Magoo)
Advanced Member
Username: Magoo
Post Number: 3908
Registered: 2-2001
| | Posted on Thursday, December 26, 2002 - 11:46 pm: | |
Jim, I am not aware of the other tool and have always used the fork. If you have a problem with the shaft not coming loose tap on the side of the arm where the tapered shaft goes through the arm as you tap the tool. It will loosen. |
Jim DeRespino (Jimbo)
New member
Username: Jimbo
Post Number: 34
Registered: 10-2001
| | Posted on Thursday, December 26, 2002 - 11:26 pm: | |
Magoo, I've got the fork deal. Isn't there a kind of puller like a pitman arm puller? |
magoo (Magoo)
Advanced Member
Username: Magoo
Post Number: 3906
Registered: 2-2001
| | Posted on Thursday, December 26, 2002 - 11:04 pm: | |
Jim the tool looks like a tuning fork on a shaft about 10 inches long. You put the fork around the shaft where it goes into the arm and drive the end with a hammer and the fork pushes the tapered ball joint shaft out of the arm. |
Jim DeRespino (Jimbo)
New member
Username: Jimbo
Post Number: 33
Registered: 10-2001
| | Posted on Thursday, December 26, 2002 - 10:01 pm: | |
Steve, what does this tool look like? |
Steve (Steve)
Junior Member
Username: Steve
Post Number: 237
Registered: 2-2001
| | Posted on Thursday, December 26, 2002 - 9:54 pm: | |
There is a special tie rod tool that you can buy from most auto supply outlets. It allows you to remove the tie rod end without damaging the rubber boot.Just go to any outlet and ask them for this tool. |
Jim DeRespino (Jimbo)
New member
Username: Jimbo
Post Number: 32
Registered: 10-2001
| | Posted on Thursday, December 26, 2002 - 9:15 pm: | |
I need to remove the rack in my 512TR to replace the end bushings. What is the best way to remove the tie rod ends? I don't want to use the fork and hammer for fear of damaging the rubber boot. Does the boot come off or is there a puller tool to remove it without banging? |