| Author |
Message |
G. J. Germane (Germane)
New member
Username: Germane
Post Number: 11
Registered: 7-2002
| | Posted on Sunday, December 29, 2002 - 12:11 pm: | |
I removed the A/C compressor -- after significant effort to attempt the job with it attached. I couldn't see a way to not remove it without potential hose and fitting damage. I have heard that belt replacement in 308 cars does not necessarily require compressor removal. The 328 must have some differences, or maybe I wasn't clever enough.
By the way, thanks to all those so far who have responded to my question. I had already loosened the three nuts on the tensioner pulley mounting assembly. I'll give it another try. |
Lawrence Coppari (Lawrence)
Member
Username: Lawrence
Post Number: 441
Registered: 4-2002
| | Posted on Sunday, December 29, 2002 - 10:30 am: | |
G. J.
What did you do about the AC compressor? |
Greg Rodgers (Joechristmas)
Member
Username: Joechristmas
Post Number: 557
Registered: 3-2001
| | Posted on Sunday, December 29, 2002 - 9:56 am: | |
Loosening the nuts that holds the tensioner in works. I replaced the tensioner bearings when I was in there so I had them loosened already. |
Steve (Steve)
Junior Member
Username: Steve
Post Number: 245
Registered: 2-2001
| | Posted on Sunday, December 29, 2002 - 7:28 am: | |
Steve GOOD tip. |
Steve Magnusson (91tr)
Intermediate Member
Username: 91tr
Post Number: 1268
Registered: 1-2001
| | Posted on Sunday, December 29, 2002 - 12:04 am: | |
GJG -- Loosen the nuts holding the tensioner assemby to the block as well as fully compressing the tensioner mechanism itself. The extra play (i.e., the ability to tip the tensioner bearing a bit) gives just the little extra slack you need for a zero force installation. |
Paul Newman (Newman)
Member
Username: Newman
Post Number: 949
Registered: 12-2001
| | Posted on Saturday, December 28, 2002 - 8:33 pm: | |
I agree Tom and thats how I would do it too but Ive seen so many people do it with the covers on to avoid the extra work. |
Tom Bakowsky (Tbakowsky)
Junior Member
Username: Tbakowsky
Post Number: 116
Registered: 9-2002
| | Posted on Saturday, December 28, 2002 - 8:20 pm: | |
carefull when doing the front side belt that the exhaust cam does not jump. Make sure you mark everything very carfully(you probbably already know this but) The way I do this job is to remove the cam covers so you can see the index mark on the cams themselves. This way u can also change the cam seals and o-rings while your there. |
Paul Newman (Newman)
Member
Username: Newman
Post Number: 947
Registered: 12-2001
| | Posted on Saturday, December 28, 2002 - 7:54 pm: | |
Also make sure once the belt is over the leading cam and crank that you apply some rotation to the crank to snug the belt on the load side to give as much slack as possible on the tensioner side. |
Paul Newman (Newman)
Member
Username: Newman
Post Number: 946
Registered: 12-2001
| | Posted on Saturday, December 28, 2002 - 7:51 pm: | |
You should not have to remove any pulley to install them. you can try slipping it over the tensioner or one of the cam sprockets that has the lip on the inside. Sometimes it helps to have it half slid onto a cam gear while you start sliding it onto the tensioner, then slid the belt back working it onto both pulleys at the same time. |
G. J. Germane (Germane)
New member
Username: Germane
Post Number: 9
Registered: 7-2002
| | Posted on Saturday, December 28, 2002 - 7:43 pm: | |
Concerning 328 camshaft timing belt replacement: can a new belt be installed without removing any cam drive pulleys? I've fully compressed the tensioner pulley spring. It does not appear that the new timing belt has enough slack to slip over the pulleys without removing the pulleys and installing them with the belt. That approach seems difficult but possible. The workshop manual is silent on specific instructions or techniques. Any experience with this? Thanks in advance. |