| Author | Message | ||
| magoo (Magoo)
Intermediate Member Username: Magoo Post Number: 2290 Registered: 2-2001 |
Sure is Ed | ||
| BretM (Bretm)
Intermediate Member Username: Bretm Post Number: 2188 Registered: 2-2001 |
Wow, nice work Edward. | ||
| Edward Gault (Irfgt)
Member Username: Irfgt Post Number: 986 Registered: 2-2001 |
Well, I installed the system this afternoon since the race got rained out and it was a very simple operation after I figured out their system and simplified it. Their wiring is very confusing as it contradicts itself in several places but I first got the thing working on the Den floor with a 12V battery to exclude all the additional systems that the system offered versus what I intended to use. The first picture shows the complete assembly after my simplification and taping together the harnesses.  Since I decided to add the remote control functions I could not use the factory harness so this added some additional labor. First you need to remove the original actuator and remove the actuator rod from the lock. The next step is to install one of the actuators with a new rod utilizing the original upper screw hole. You will then need to trip the door lock catch where the door closes so that the lock will think the door is closed as the doors will not lock unless the doors are closed. You will then need to pull up on the door lock knob and extend the new actuator to it's uppermost travel. You will then need to mark your rod at a point that you will be able to bend the rod after removal to where it will fit into the original rod location. I used a vice and hammer to accomplish the bend and then cut off the excess. You are now ready to install the actuator and rod and mark the location for drilling the new lower mounting screw hole. You should now have something that looks like this.    . The wiring has a long side harness that goes to the left door and a shorter harness that goes to the right door. The only features I wished to utilize are the park lamp flash feature when you operate the system. It has wiring that will interface with an alarm system and starter disable and horn operation but I do not want this so I eliminated this wiring. The door lock system wiring alone is simple and I will not comment on this area but the addition of the remote is a little tricky and their description is vague so here is the simple version. There are two relays, a lock relay and a remote lock relay. The white wire from the remote relay goes to the park light fuse and supplies a momentary 12 v signal to flash the park lights. The Yellow wire, which I did not use but you may want to, will lock the doors automaticly and unlock them when you turn the ignition switch on and off. The blue wire provides a momentary ground when the locks are operated to operate the horn and is connected to the horn relay to the black wire that goes to the horn button in the steering column. The small yellow wire from the lock relay connects to the brown wire to the remote lock relay. The small Green wire from the lock relay goes to the white wire to the remote lock relay. The brown, orange, grey and brown wires on the lock relay are unused but could be if you wish to add or connect to an electric trunk opener or other accessory. The biggest confusion is with the two small wires I mentioned as the wiring diagram supplied is contradictory. I connected the park light wire to the park light connector in the fuse box and put the two power {red} wires together and connected them to an empty terminal on the right side of the fuse box that is hot all the time. I fed the wiring harness along side of the original door harness through the door post hole and then through the grommet in the door and tie wrapped the harness to the original harness making sure that it would not get chaffe by the window cables {as if they got up enough speed to chafe something}. I mounted the relays and excess wiring under the right sub floorboard where the catalyst warning control boxes are located. Everything is now hidden and the thing works like a charm. If you lock or unlock either door with the key the opposite door locks or unlocks. If you close both doors and press the remote lock button, both doors lock and the park lights flash twice. If you press the unlock button both doors unlock and the park lights blink once. If you press the lock remote button with either of the doors open, it obviously cannot lock that door and it will trip an internal circuit breaker and neither of the locks will operate until the circuit breaker cools off {ask how I know}. There is also a programming button which I did not need but you may and there is a small red LED that blinks when the doors are locked but I have yet figured out where to mount it. This may sound confusing but when you have the system in hand you will understand what I am talking about. Feel free to ask any questions if you decide to install one of these and want some help. It took me about 4 hours but I could do another in half that time and this info should save at least an hour. | ||
| Edward Gault (Irfgt)
Member Username: Irfgt Post Number: 968 Registered: 2-2001 |
The systems I am using are the P2DLK and KL455. | ||
| Edward Gault (Irfgt)
Member Username: Irfgt Post Number: 967 Registered: 2-2001 |
http://www.commandoalarms.com/itmidx11.htm This is the product that I will be installing. The parts arrived yesterday and I may start on the project this weekend but it is also the BIG car show in Charlotte N.C. So..............? | ||
| Marcus Adolfsson (Marcusadolfsson)
New member Username: Marcusadolfsson Post Number: 42 Registered: 10-2001 |
The passenger power lock on my TR is dead as well, so I am interested in what parts you used. | ||
| John Bicsak (Funshipone)
New member Username: Funshipone Post Number: 46 Registered: 1-2002 |
I will be very interested on how it works out. I have a 1984 308. | ||
| Edward Gault (Irfgt)
Member Username: Irfgt Post Number: 948 Registered: 2-2001 |
My power door locks gave up the ghost and rather than attempt to purchase the original inferior parts to repair them I am going to install a pair of aftermarket actuators that operate in the same manner that the factory ones did with the exception that I am going to add the remote actuator fobs. When I receive the kits I will post the results and proceedures. Also the entire system is around $100.00 and I can use the existing wiring . I hope the results are more spectacular than the window motors were. |