| Author |
Message |
BretM (Bretm)
Intermediate Member
Username: Bretm
Post Number: 2207
Registered: 2-2001
| | Posted on Monday, April 08, 2002 - 3:21 pm: | |
Yeah that's probably the best way to go about this. Will do. |
'75 308 GT4 (Peter)
Intermediate Member
Username: Peter
Post Number: 1769
Registered: 12-2000
| | Posted on Monday, April 08, 2002 - 1:57 pm: | |
The bearings are just a few bucks Bret, replace 'em anyways. |
BretM (Bretm)
Intermediate Member
Username: Bretm
Post Number: 2203
Registered: 2-2001
| | Posted on Monday, April 08, 2002 - 12:26 pm: | |
When I pulled my engine Nick said to really check out the bearings in this area and the seals, he said they go all the time. One of mine is really tight, the other has a touch of play, but not enough to warrant replacement. Although since the seals look to be leaking like sieves I might replace it anyways. |
thomas n. treue (Treue)
New member
Username: Treue
Post Number: 3
Registered: 4-2002
| | Posted on Monday, April 08, 2002 - 7:47 am: | |
Verrell,
On a drive in my 82 Euro 308, about a year ago, I began hearing a metallic singing noise from the right side of the engine bay. About two weeks later, my few-drops-a-drive oil leak turned into a coat-the-rear-end flood. I did a UV dye check of the oil and found the leak was coming from behind the rear (right bank) cam belt drive pulley. After I marked and removed the belt, I found about 1/8" slop in the pulley shaft!! This will allow the belt to be looser than it should, even with good tension rollers, properly adjusted.
I was able to replace the drive pulley shaft bearing and seal without removing the engine. First, I pulled the drive pulley (Baum Tools will sell you the proper socket for the notch nut) and the crank pulley/balancer (required an impact wrench). The woodruff key had been installed with a heavy force fit and had to be carefully drilled out until there was less than 1/2 of the material left. The bearing seal had become hard and pulled away from the inner race, allowing the bearing lubricant to escape. The seal came off with pliers. I then removed the outboard snap ring and ground a notch in both races to remove the balls after pulling the ball separator apart and out with pliers and a small screwdriver. Protecting the end cover with a piece of scrap sheet metal, I then pried out the inner race. I got a small gear puller from NAPA and ground it down to pull the outer race. The lip seal had come free from the end cover and was just twirling around the pulley shaft uselessly. It was hard and cracked anyway. Identical replacement parts were available from the local bearing shop. I found a commercial 5mm woodruff key but I had to grind the correct profile on it by hand. With GREAT care, I ground the thickness to give a LIGHT press fit for easier future maintenance. The new lip seal goes in (open end facing inboard) with a sheet metal sleeve to help it over the step in the shaft. The seal outboard face goes in just inboard of the inboard snap ring. I tapped the bearing in using a socket on the outer race. (A brass drift that bears against both inner and outer races would have been better.) After completing reassembly, I ran the engine for just a few minutes and then changed the oil to remove any trash that might have resulted from the repairs. Judging from the condition of my parts and anecdotal information, this may be a common problem. |
Edward Gault (Irfgt)
Member
Username: Irfgt
Post Number: 989
Registered: 2-2001
| | Posted on Sunday, April 07, 2002 - 7:30 pm: | |
Draining your coolant is now the least of your problems. Good luck, you will need us now more than ever. |
Verell Boaen (Verell)
Junior Member
Username: Verell
Post Number: 70
Registered: 5-2001
| | Posted on Sunday, April 07, 2002 - 4:34 pm: | |
Thanx Ed,
Good Tip.
It beats draining the whole system.
I'm going to figure put some kind of a drain valve that I can attach a hose to so I don't end up with a cup or so of coolant on the floor the way I always do now, now matter how careful I try to be(sigh).
NOT TENSION IDLER AFTER ALL!
I got the cam cover off. The timing belt had a noticable amount of slack. My 1st thought was that the tensioner had failed. However, it felt fine. (I could rotate it by hand which gives you an idea how loose the belt was! My next thought was that adj. bolt had come loose. However, it was still torqued down! I knew I had the tension adjusted right when I changed the belt last spring.
Just to be sure, I replaced the tensioner. BTW, while researching another timing belt change topic, I came across a great tip for keeping the belt in place on the pulleys: Use binder clips! I just slipped a couple of 1-1/4" clips over the edge of each of the cam pulleys, and another belt over the drive pulley. I was then able to change the idler w/o pulling the belt. (I know you're supposed to replace the belt & never re-adj tension, but I wanted to replace the tensioner & adj belt tension so I could figure out what the heck was going on...
Sure 'nuff, the old tensioner was as smooth as it felt in place.
I started up the car for a couple of seconds to see if I could spot something. Everything sounded pretty much normal. I began to believe that the idler was the problem until I took a look at the engine: Th belt is still vibrating, and every once a while the drive pulley jumps around & vibrates up & down about 1/8".
DIAGNOSIS:CAM DRIVE BEARINGS(sigh)
I guess I won't be driving the car next week after all.
Time to go digging thru the FerrariList & FeerrariChat archives for tips on replacing the cam drive bearings. |
Edward Gault (Irfgt)
Member
Username: Irfgt
Post Number: 978
Registered: 2-2001
| | Posted on Sunday, April 07, 2002 - 6:13 am: | |
You can drain the coolant down slightly without completely draining the system and just take the pipe loose from the thermostat housing and move it out of the way. You can stuff a rag into the open hose connector to keep any residual coolant from splashing out. This works for me. |
Verell Boaen (Verell)
Junior Member
Username: Verell
Post Number: 69
Registered: 5-2001
| | Posted on Saturday, April 06, 2002 - 11:41 pm: | |
CAN YOU REMOVE FWD CAM COVR W/O PULLING COOLANT LINE?
I recently took my Euro 308 QV out of winter storage & went for a nice drive. On the way back home I started hearing a vibrating noise like a bearing going bad.
Figured the A/C compressor had lost a bearing, since I'd rebuilt the water pump & had the alternator rebuilt last spring. Pulled both the alternator & water pump belts & the noise is still there. Using a stethascope, the noise is definitely coming from the forward cam cover. I suspect that the tensioner pulley has gone bad.
I've got new tensioners, but haven't gotten around to installing them.
I'm wondering if anyone has pulled the forward cam cover w/o draining the cooling system & removing the coolant line that crosses in front of the fwd cam cover. If I can do this, it will speed the job up a lot. |
Rolly Astrom (Swede)
New member
Username: Swede
Post Number: 23
Registered: 7-2001
| | Posted on Friday, April 05, 2002 - 5:34 pm: | |
Thanks for the help folks, I really appreciate the info. I'm still sourcing the parts and have not decided yet on the supplier but at least have a few options.
I'll likely take things apart this weekend, put a shopping list together, motivate my long suffering Newfy (seer of all things mechanical), and get at it.
I've had luck in the past with mechanical gremlins righting themselves, but not, I fear, this time. |
Verell Boaen (Verell)
Junior Member
Username: Verell
Post Number: 68
Registered: 5-2001
| | Posted on Wednesday, April 03, 2002 - 9:51 pm: | |
I posted some timing belt change info on the Ferrarilist chat, including references to a lot of Ferrarilist & other posts that helped me with my belt job. I think I included several tips that Ric gave me that he'd forgotten to put into his post.
Here's the URL:
http://www.ferrarilist.com/forum/read.php?f=3&i=9&t=9
Good luck!! |
Kelly J. Vince (Tifosi1)
Junior Member
Username: Tifosi1
Post Number: 191
Registered: 2-2002
| | Posted on Wednesday, April 03, 2002 - 8:06 pm: | |
http://www.expensivecar.com/timing.htm
Here you go. Took me a while but i found it. DONOT take any short cuts and if you have any questions call me. i sent you my home phone number via e-mail |
magoo (Magoo)
Intermediate Member
Username: Magoo
Post Number: 2223
Registered: 2-2001
| | Posted on Tuesday, April 02, 2002 - 9:48 pm: | |
Rics email is [email protected] |
Rolly Astrom (Swede)
New member
Username: Swede
Post Number: 21
Registered: 7-2001
| | Posted on Tuesday, April 02, 2002 - 9:35 pm: | |
Kelly.......Ric's?
Not familiar with the site and could not find after a quick search.
Do you have a web address for Ric's? |
magoo (Magoo)
Intermediate Member
Username: Magoo
Post Number: 2218
Registered: 2-2001
| | Posted on Tuesday, April 02, 2002 - 9:03 pm: | |
Rolly there is a ton of info. in the archives that can't be put here in this post. It may be helpful to search it out. Plenty of info there. Brgds, Magoo |
Kelly J. Vince (Tifosi1)
Junior Member
Username: Tifosi1
Post Number: 187
Registered: 2-2002
| | Posted on Tuesday, April 02, 2002 - 8:59 pm: | |
Go to Ric's website for instructions and get the bearings and belts from nick. He's got some new bearings that will run coller.
I paid $15.50 for each Belt.
tensioner were $110.00 each(before Nick had the new ones).
Valve cover gasket, $40.00
Kelly |
Rolly Astrom (Swede)
New member
Username: Swede
Post Number: 20
Registered: 7-2001
| | Posted on Tuesday, April 02, 2002 - 8:53 pm: | |
1975 308 GT4
Heard a belt squeeling in the fall and upon inspection noticed on the rear cylinder bank, the cam tensioner pulley was not turning and the belt was sliding along it with some degree of friction, hence the squeel. Hmmmmm.....not a good thing methought. Knowing full well the bearing was sealed and should not need lubrication, I spritzed it with lube and it has spun merrily since, although it's given me the Heebie Jeebies when driving it.
Stored the car during the crap winter we have in Canada, stewed about the likeliehood of the belt being weakened and also the likely reoccurence of the stuck tensioner and have decided to replace the belts and tensioner bearings (not nearly enough KMs to warrant the change but well over the time spec).
A couple of questions:
Does anyone know where the bearings can be obtained for a good price?
Or is there an alternative bearing that can confidently be used for the application?
I do intend to hunt back through posts for cam belt changing info........but all hints, tips, spells, potions, and curses to aid in the task are welcomed.
Thanks in advance
|