| Author | Message | ||
| Norman Yung (Storminnormin)
New member Username: Storminnormin Post Number: 29 Registered: 7-2002 |
I just spoke to someone at the dealership and he said he has occasionally changed the brakepads to the 456M ones. They are a little softer and slightly less suitable for extreme driving, but should be ok for road use. I am seriously considering this option since I hate being embarrassed by the screaching noise every time I stop at a light. | ||
| Frank K Lipinski (Kaz)
Junior Member Username: Kaz Post Number: 104 Registered: 11-2002 |
Good Tips and will do. Randy - I've I checked previous threads here and seems many people had good luck with the R4S pads, but will lube the back plate to be safe. FYI - Don't need to flush the entire system. The car has only 70 miles on it since the 30K major service at the dealer and all fluids are fresh.  | ||
| Bob Harris (Autobob)
New member Username: Autobob Post Number: 2 Registered: 1-2003 |
Good tips. I recommend on all ABS cars to open the bleeder valve when pushing the pistons back in. This keeps the kooodies in the fluid from going back upstream into the ABS pump body and causing problems. After you have your new pads in then take the baster and remove all the old fluid you can from the reservoir, remembering that it is caustic to your paint, refill with fresh fluid and flush and bleed your lines. Bleed the brake and clutch fluid at least every two years on your street cars will typically keep all hydraulics in good shape. Track cars with adequate brake systems can typically be bled before and after events or sessions, depending on driving style. | ||
| Randy (Schatten)
Member Username: Schatten Post Number: 543 Registered: 4-2001 |
Frank - depending on what you had before, not sure that the porterfields will be any quieter - depending on how you drive and how they are installed. On some porterfield installations, people complain of the noise, and this is usually due to the shims not installed correctly or no lube at all between the shim and the metal backing plate. | ||
| Frank K Lipinski (Kaz)
Junior Member Username: Kaz Post Number: 100 Registered: 11-2002 |
Great Suggestions... Bleeder bottle...hmmm. Yep, empty beer bottle will be part of the project.. Thanks everyone!  | ||
| Rob Schermerhorn (Rexrcr)
Junior Member Username: Rexrcr Post Number: 73 Registered: 11-2002 |
You may notice that if you have not topped up your master cylider, that when you push the pistons back in, the fluid level returns to normal. Another technique is to put your bleeder hose on a fitting and crack the bleeder fitting open while you push the piston back. In some cars this actually reduces fluid friction and makes it easier to push the piston. On race cars with frequent pad changes and brake maintenance, I could push pistons back by hand using this method. Now, since you have you bleeder bottle out, may as well bleed the brakes. | ||
| Steve Magnusson (91tr)
Intermediate Member Username: 91tr Post Number: 1295 Registered: 1-2001 |
Frank -- Alternatively, you can use a Turkey Baster to withdraw a little fluid from the reservoir occasionally as you push the brake piston back into the caliper to keep it from overflowing (but if you're also refreshing the brake fluid it's better IMO to open the bleed screw at the caliper to expel the excess fluid so you don't move the old fluid back up the lines). | ||
| Frank K Lipinski (Kaz)
Junior Member Username: Kaz Post Number: 99 Registered: 11-2002 |
Thanks Matt, As always, You Da Man! | ||
| Matt Lemus (Mlemus)
Intermediate Member Username: Mlemus Post Number: 1276 Registered: 8-2002 |
I remove the cap and place rags about it to keep the overflow from spilling. | ||
| Frank K Lipinski (Kaz)
Junior Member Username: Kaz Post Number: 98 Registered: 11-2002 |
OK no laughing here... I have a little squeeking and ordered some new porterfield pads. I have not worked on a car for a while, so now that I have more freedom with my time and enjoy tinkering..well you get the drift. Anyway questions is this. Pulling the old pads is no problem, after I take them out I use a small C clamp covered in a rag to spread the calipers for the new pads. If memory serves me right, which it rarely does, I thought I removed the cap from the reservior so the fluid does not "back up" too far when you spread the calipers. I know to be careful not to get the level down far enough for air to enter, but what about removing the cap? Do you guys do the same? Just wondering... |