| Author |
Message |
BRIAN FAHERTY (Brian)
New member
Username: Brian
Post Number: 14
Registered: 10-2002
| | Posted on Wednesday, January 08, 2003 - 1:02 pm: | |
hi steve
My mechanic said he did not use an impact wrench an his helper is more careful than him.Since the car was in for service I had to let him pull the wheels
I agree with you. I pull wheels off using a tire iron with tape around the edge so not to scratch the inside of the rim where the bolts go or especially the lip of the bolt hole. As far as crushing the nuts, last year -I had my nuts chromed-(love saying that)so everything was fresh and clean. I remove the valve stem. I gently pry off the center caps (new) pushing from the back with a rubber end of a hammer, and then take to a shop where they use a touchless tire machine. I could not be more careful.
So far the cost of powder coat,center caps, re-chrome nuts, paint, and mounting tires is about $700, and they look beat up.
I will try calling keystone and see what they have to say.
Thanks for the info
Brian
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Steve Magnusson (91tr)
Intermediate Member
Username: 91tr
Post Number: 1299
Registered: 1-2001
| | Posted on Wednesday, January 08, 2003 - 10:17 am: | |
Brian -- try Keystone (they're a national wheel refinishing vendor that my local body shop uses/recommended):
http://www.keystone-auto.com/locations/search.asp
I was very pleased with the results/value from the Denver location (~$400 to do my 4 TR wheels a couple of years ago and others have reported paying ~$500/set). That's just the refinishing cost (I arranged the dismount tires/remove valve stems and install valve stems/remount tires separately) so $1K for the drop-off/pick-up/minimum hassle project is not unreasonable retail $ IMO (if it's well done). Anyway, just wanted to pass on this option if you wanted to invest a couple of DIY hours to reduce the project cost (and use a proven vendor).
PS I'd avoid a shop that puts an impact wrench with a regular steel socket on a chromed lugbolt (the forces on the corners of the lugbolt can fracture/delaminate the chrome-plating) and then lets the end of the socket chew-up the painted wheel counterbore -- no finish can withstand that! Griot's offers an aluminum-lined 22mm socket (you've still got to be careful about not just shoving the socket into the wheel finish and no impact wrench please). This is why I prefer to dismount the wheel/tire from the chassis and remove the center caps myself before going to the tire shop. |
BRIAN FAHERTY (Brian)
New member
Username: Brian
Post Number: 13
Registered: 10-2002
| | Posted on Wednesday, January 08, 2003 - 9:29 am: | |
Rob
The powder coat job came out nasty. all four wheels looked different. One was thick and full of bubbles, one was thin and washed out, and the other two chipped and were loaded with stress cracks.
I am a cabinet maker by trade and have stripped and refinished a lot of stuff.
I have painted many things over the years also.
I am getting prices from shops to restore my rims for around $200-$250 per wheel.
My next question is will they scratch and chip?
I would hate to tie up the car, and spend a grand, and get the same results. Could someone recomend a shop for refinishing wheels that is good and reasonable.
Last thought-Should I chrome them if I am going to spend the money.
Thanks guys |
Rob Schermerhorn (Rexrcr)
Junior Member
Username: Rexrcr
Post Number: 83
Registered: 11-2002
| | Posted on Wednesday, January 08, 2003 - 8:35 am: | |
All that is required is a good surface for the paint to adhere. Sounds like you did an exemplary job. A surface scuffed with Scotch Brite is sufficient for adhesion. Problem is that rattle can paint will never be as good as professionally sprayed and baked paint for durability. I know, I've done it both ways. Two weeks later with the rattle can job I had a few stone chips. The paint is a bit brittle and you're limited because of the nature of a spray can.
A pro has more control, better paint, and can bake the finish.
I'm quite surprised at your powder coat experience. I have found that coating tough as nails, just a bit more difficult to match colors. |
Hans E. Hansen (4re_gt4)
Member
Username: 4re_gt4
Post Number: 722
Registered: 4-2002
| | Posted on Tuesday, January 07, 2003 - 11:19 pm: | |
Drop Rob Garven a line. He went thru the wheel refinish thing recently. |
BRIAN FAHERTY (Brian)
New member
Username: Brian
Post Number: 11
Registered: 10-2002
| | Posted on Tuesday, January 07, 2003 - 9:03 pm: | |
Hi guys
Had my rims powder coated two years ago, came out crumby. Not happy at all.
Last year, I hand stripped the rims down to the metal.I wire brushed the metal. I sanded. I paint preped. zinc primered, silver painted and clear coated using Geriots wheel paint kit. Rims looked great!
Drive car all summer, all is fine. This fall send it in for a fluid service including water pump.
The rims had to be pulled off to bleed the brakes and the rear passenger pulled again to get to the w/pump.
Problem is I detail the car and notice 10 or more good size chips on each rim from the lug wrench, more on the rear passenger rim.
I spoke with the tech at the shop, and Groits, and they both deny any wrong doing, and would like to see the dammage.
My question to the members is- I hand stripped the rims using 5f5 chemical stripper, the furniture stuff. I cleaned it using lacquer, and paint prep. I sanded the metal and wire brushed it. I used gloves and paint prep again. These rims were stripped to bare metal and cleaned before any painting.
Griots says they need to be bead blasted to work right.
What do you guys think?
Strip and clean or bead blast?
Thanks Brian |
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