| Author |
Message |
Ernie Bonilla (Ernie)
Member
Username: Ernie
Post Number: 501
Registered: 11-2001
| | Posted on Sunday, January 12, 2003 - 11:16 am: | |
Spot weld fixxed, and the light is working without any problems. It is a good thing that I got it fixxed too. Because of the weld being broken the metal was cracking pretty bad. I guess is was from the force of the motor trying to open the light that made it crack more. After I put the light back in and got it working, I looked on the other light to see how that one was. Well guess what fellas, the other light looks like it had its weld bust too and was fixxed before. The job that they did on that one is really ugly, but the thing works, so I'll leave it be for now. I suggest that you check the welds on the back of your headlights, so that you don't run into the same problem I ran into.
Thanks again for the help. |
Dave Penhale (Dapper)
Member
Username: Dapper
Post Number: 453
Registered: 4-2002
| | Posted on Friday, January 10, 2003 - 4:36 am: | |
Yeah love to know what a new one would cost from F dealer, bet it would be a few hundred bucks, although it is a few pieces bolted together so I guess it may not be too bad. |
Ernie Bonilla (Ernie)
Member
Username: Ernie
Post Number: 499
Registered: 11-2001
| | Posted on Thursday, January 09, 2003 - 7:14 pm: | |
It was a bit of a pain, but not that bad. Nothing that you couldn't do yourself. The hardest part was getting light out of the hole. In order to get to the bolts and screws, that hold the light housing in place, you have to remove the washer fluid resivoir. In order to see the welds you have to look at the back of the light, on the upper part of it, towards the edges. Oh yeah it helps if the hood is up. Anyway the welds are attaching the brackets to the back of the light housing, and then those are connected to the brackets that allow the headlight housing to swivel up and down.
Yeah that liner isn't very well made. I did see the notches but I left the liner out. I have it sitting in the car, and will put it back in after I get the weld fixxed. No use breaking it more than it is already busted. It isn't hard to mess that thing up either, it is really pretty cheaply made. I don't even wanna think what the dealer is asker for that peice of junk. |
bob snow (Resnow)
New member
Username: Resnow
Post Number: 36
Registered: 5-2001
| | Posted on Thursday, January 09, 2003 - 3:35 pm: | |
Had my liner out so many times fixing the AC that I now just store it in the garage attic. Looks cooler under the bonnet anyway and I can access everything instantly. Besides, the liner is so flimsy/delicate that it has required some repair work after just a couple removals.
Has anyone had problems with their air handling blower (e.g., a bad, noisy bearing) and removed the unit?
Bob |
Dave Penhale (Dapper)
Member
Username: Dapper
Post Number: 447
Registered: 4-2002
| | Posted on Thursday, January 09, 2003 - 3:08 am: | |
Hmm, getting that bonnet/hood lining back in is fun, just been there with my air con fuse checking episode. Make sure you get the front felt fingers part of the liner (that go around the hydraulic struts) in place first, I forgot and had to take it all out again. |
Dave Penhale (Dapper)
Member
Username: Dapper
Post Number: 446
Registered: 4-2002
| | Posted on Thursday, January 09, 2003 - 3:07 am: | |
Hmm, getting that bonnet/hood lining back in is fun, just been there with my air con fuse checking episode. Make sure you get the front felt fingers part of the liner (that go around the hydraulic struts) in place first, I forgot and had |
Jeff B. (Miltonian)
New member
Username: Miltonian
Post Number: 37
Registered: 12-2002
| | Posted on Wednesday, January 08, 2003 - 10:24 pm: | |
Ernie:
Thanks for the good description of your diagnosis. This is a good example of why it isn't a good idea to try to get around an electrical problem by putting in a higher-amperage fuse. You could have ended up with fried wiring, a burnt out headlight motor, or a bent headlight door. As it is, it appears you will come out OK, cool!! Pulling the housing must have been a bit of a chore. From your experience, it might be a good idea for all 348 owners to check their headlight assemblies for broken spot welds. Is the area of the failure visible with the headlight in place? |
Ernie Bonilla (Ernie)
Member
Username: Ernie
Post Number: 498
Registered: 11-2001
| | Posted on Wednesday, January 08, 2003 - 10:00 pm: | |
I found what is causing it to blow. I removed the trunk liner so I could see if there were loose wires under the fuse pannel. I took the fuse pannel out and checked all the connections. They were just fine. I figured it had to be something with the motor wiring, so I took out the entire light housing. The wires there were ok also. So I figured the maybe the conection of the wires to the motor. Well there is no way that this could be causing the short, because the headlight motor is completely covered with a protective coating, wires and all. I get every thing back together and notice that a spot weld, that holds the housing to the bracing, is broken, and that there is a little play between the two. I put all the fuses in and turn the lights on, and the light starts to open and then stops. What happend is that because the light is loose now, as it is opening it is getting stuck under the lip that goes aroung the front of the car, between the bumper and the hood. So the motor locks up and causes the fuse to blow.
Thanks for all the help guys. Now I have to see if I can get it spot welded back together. |
Fred (I Luv 4REs) (Iluv4res)
Member
Username: Iluv4res
Post Number: 292
Registered: 8-2002
| | Posted on Wednesday, January 08, 2003 - 4:09 pm: | |
If possible, also check the wiring that is under where the relay plugs in. Perhaps there is a loose wire and/or some corrosion there. |
Jeff B. (Miltonian)
New member
Username: Miltonian
Post Number: 35
Registered: 12-2002
| | Posted on Wednesday, January 08, 2003 - 2:44 pm: | |
My thoughts on the subject:
1) Put 7.5Amp fuses into the circuit.
2) Look carefully at the linkage from the motor to the door for any sign that it is twisted, stuck, or loose.
3) Look carefully at the wiring bundle that runs under the front of the car just below the bumper, for any evidence that the wires have been pinched by bottoming out, or worn through where they go around the corners. These wires are in a VERY vulnerable position.
4) Next step would be to unplug the motor, then turn on the headlights to see if the fuse still blows. Unfortunately, it isn't easy to get at the connection on the right headlight motor because of the A/C condenser. You might be able to reach it by removing the right fog lamp assembly (not too hard). If the fuse still blows with the motor unplugged, the problem is in the wiring. If the fuse doesn't blow, the problem is either in the motor or something binding preventing the door from opening.
Word of warning: be VERY careful with your fingers around the headlight door unless you have the relay unplugged. If that door opens when your fingers are down there, you'll find out pretty quick how powerful that motor is!
Keep us posted, and good luck!
Jeff B. |
Ernie Bonilla (Ernie)
Member
Username: Ernie
Post Number: 497
Registered: 11-2001
| | Posted on Wednesday, January 08, 2003 - 2:30 pm: | |
The idiots that had the car before me had wrong fuses in other spots also. I left the relay and fuse disconected while I went to the parts store to get more fuses. I put all the correct fuses in, with non of them blowing. I turned the lights on, and the right side headlight opened and closed one time then it blew a 7.5. I tired a 10amp and that one popped too. The left side has the proper 7.5 in it and is working fine. The right side I am hearing an eletrical spark when I am pushing the relay in. Seems like it is getting open current. I'm leaving the fuse and the relay out until the cause can be found, because I don't need a BBQ'd car or house. |
Jeff B. (Miltonian)
New member
Username: Miltonian
Post Number: 34
Registered: 12-2002
| | Posted on Wednesday, January 08, 2003 - 12:49 pm: | |
Ouch! This will take some thought, I'll try to get back to you later today, perhaps someone else has some ideas. For now, my recommendation would be to STOP if the headlight motor fuses are bigger than 7.5AMP, unless you want to see what your 348 looks like by firelight! |
Ernie Bonilla (Ernie)
Member
Username: Ernie
Post Number: 496
Registered: 11-2001
| | Posted on Wednesday, January 08, 2003 - 11:53 am: | |
Ok you guys were right on the money, however.
I moved the knob on the headlight motor and I was able to lift the headlight manually. There was a fuse that was blown, and it was the one for the right side. But I pulled a 10amp fuse a put it in and it still blew. On the left side for that motor it has a 15amp fuse in it. The other thing is that I pulled the right side relay and put it in the left side, to see if it would cause the left side not to work, and the light came up, so the right side relay is still good. I tried putting the left side relay and the 15amp fuse on the right side but it still didn't want to come up, yet went I put it back on the left side it worked just fine. One other thing, the right side relay was warm. So what do I look for now?
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Jeff B. (Miltonian)
New member
Username: Miltonian
Post Number: 32
Registered: 12-2002
| | Posted on Wednesday, January 08, 2003 - 3:14 am: | |
Ernie: The problem could be either electrical or mechanical.
First, take a look from inside the trunk at the headlight motor, it's right behind the headlight. Turn the knob on top clockwise and the door should raise very slowly. If it doesn't, look to see if the linkage rod has come off.
If everything looks OK there, then move to the fuse/relay panel at the left side of the trunk, as Billy suggests. The rearmost row of fuses has two 7.5AMPers in the middle, the one to the right is the right headlight motor fuse. Inspect/replace as necessary.
If the fuse is OK, try the relay. In the same panel, the rearmost row, the one to the far right is the right headlight motor relay. The one right next to it is the left motor relay. Just swap them and see what happens. If the left headlight motor is now dead, you know the relay is bad.
The relay should be easily available, it's a standard Bosch item.
Just in case, when I say "rear" I mean rear of the car, when I say "right", I mean passenger side.
I'm confident you'll have it fixed in no time!
Jeff B. |
Ernie Bonilla (Ernie)
Member
Username: Ernie
Post Number: 495
Registered: 11-2001
| | Posted on Tuesday, January 07, 2003 - 11:08 pm: | |
Thanks Billy, I'll check that in the morning. |
billy bob (Fatbillybob)
Junior Member
Username: Fatbillybob
Post Number: 134
Registered: 8-2002
| | Posted on Tuesday, January 07, 2003 - 11:03 pm: | |
left front bonnet fusebox and relays |
Ernie Bonilla (Ernie)
Member
Username: Ernie
Post Number: 494
Registered: 11-2001
| | Posted on Tuesday, January 07, 2003 - 10:51 pm: | |
The right side headlight on my 348 won't pop up. I haven't had any problem before. The light comes on, but will not come up. I noticed it tonight on the way home from the gas station. I tried turning the lights on and off, thinking that it might be the switch on the stearing collum. But both light turn on just fine, just the right one doesn't wanna open up. I then tried leaving the lights on, and tapping on the one that wouldn't open, with my hand, but no luck there either. Is it a fuse, or a pinched wire, or I hope it isn't the motor for the mechanism. What should I check for, and where do I look?
Thanks,
Ernie |
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