| Author | Message | ||
| JRV (Jrvall)
Member Username: Jrvall Post Number: 535 Registered: 11-2002 |
Dave, I'm sure I'm not the only Shop Owner/Mechanic that understands any business relationship is about far more than just money. In fact the key word is relationship. Not many want to throw money at every little problem, including me. But there are just times when the benifits of Shop Equipment far outwiegh the costs of using them. I know first hand because I use my equip. daily, so I see the benifits daily of how much better engines run when the adjustments are checked against unbiased tools. A gas analyzer isn't a subjective 'opinion' about what's going on inside the motor, it's just a set of numbers that define condition ie: good, bad, terrible. So taking the readings isn't about money, it's simply about 'state of tune'. And knowing the truth as the machine sees it doesn't mean one is obligated to take corrective measures, it simply means the viel of mystery, the unknoown or denial has been lifted. I'd bet there are small shops with Test Equipment everywhere that one could find to assist in setting the motors correctly for little or no charge. Plenty of mechanics Love Ferrari's, even ones that don't make a living servicing them. | ||
| TomD (Tifosi)
Intermediate Member Username: Tifosi Post Number: 2280 Registered: 9-2001 |
nice to see we can put things behind us. Way to go | ||
| Dave Penhale (Dapper)
Member Username: Dapper Post Number: 448 Registered: 4-2002 |
Good for you JRV, that last line was mega encouraging for me, its easy to get cynical against businesses these days, thinking they are ALL in it for every buck. Not many around these days in business prepared to go the distance without wanting every buck out of the job, prepared to do some work elements for the long term best for the car(s) themselves. | ||
| JRV (Jrvall)
Member Username: Jrvall Post Number: 534 Registered: 11-2002 |
Henryk, the idle settings won't affect overall performance short term, so certianly the engine will run fine without the additional tweaking. In fact the BB512i I just did ran better at idle just by turning screws. Problem is, normally they won't idle fine long term if the idle mixture is off. The beauty of setting them right is watching the HC's come down and even out reducing fouled plugs, reduced stress on plug wires, reduced cylnder wash down and that silky smooth idle that snaps & growls at the owners slightest whim. I think most would agree that putting off the cost of rings & a valve job is worth the extra effort to tweek the fuel mixture/idle settings with a gas analyzer. Heck, if the owner was to broke to pay for setting his idle right I'd probably give it to him in the interest of helping preserve his engine. | ||
| Matt Lemus (Mlemus)
Intermediate Member Username: Mlemus Post Number: 1326 Registered: 8-2002 |
JRV, Will it cost the exact amount that the Boxer will sell for?  | ||
| Henryk (Henryk)
Member Username: Henryk Post Number: 385 Registered: 8-2001 |
Thanks JRV for the insight. BTW: The car runs great. | ||
| JRV (Jrvall)
Member Username: Jrvall Post Number: 533 Registered: 11-2002 |
Henryk, your procedure was fine...I wasn't correcting you. Just adding insight. None of the air screws can be turned without affecting mixture. Even putting the air cleaners back on after adjusting makes the CO/HC numbers jump. | ||
| Henryk (Henryk)
Member Username: Henryk Post Number: 384 Registered: 8-2001 |
JRV; I am aware of the idle mixture screws, and that they must be adjusted with a gas analyzer, since they will change the mixture, by changing the throttle plate position, I believe. However, what I was referring to was the "other" idle air adjustment......referring to the large screw-type knobs, that are not capped, and readily accessable. Can't the idle be changed by these, without affecting the air-fuel mixture? Thanks | ||
| JRV (Jrvall)
Member Username: Jrvall Post Number: 532 Registered: 11-2002 |
>>JRV, how can you plug them, and with what? No slam, real question.<< I mean it requires a Special Factory Tool no longer availible. But I'll sell you a spare set I have. ;-) | ||
| Matt Lemus (Mlemus)
Intermediate Member Username: Mlemus Post Number: 1325 Registered: 8-2002 |
JRV, Thanks, Matt | ||
| JRV (Jrvall)
Member Username: Jrvall Post Number: 531 Registered: 11-2002 |
Matt, I use a cutoff plastic model paint brush handle that will screw into and seal the holes while I'm tweeking. | ||
| Matt Lemus (Mlemus)
Intermediate Member Username: Mlemus Post Number: 1324 Registered: 8-2002 |
JRV brings up a good point. Boxer tachs are off. I use a external tach for adjustments. "The holes in the FD's must be plugged immediately after adjusting the screw to obtain the real CO/HC readings." JRV, how can you plug them, and with what? No slam, real question. | ||
| JRV (Jrvall)
Member Username: Jrvall Post Number: 530 Registered: 11-2002 |
Every time you change an air screw the mixture changes 'considerably'. It cannot be properly set without a Gas Analyzer. I just delivered a BB512i yesterday so this is not to try and scare you, only to inform. To set the idle takes 2 vacum gauges plumbed into the intake with T fittings, 3mm allen, Gas Analyzer drawing before the cats, if any. You likely cannot acurately use the Boxer tach to find 1000-1050..so rpm wise guesstimate or use accurate aux tach. The holes in the FD's must be plugged immediately after adjusting the screw to obtain the real CO/HC readings. | ||
| Matt Lemus (Mlemus)
Intermediate Member Username: Mlemus Post Number: 1323 Registered: 8-2002 |
Henryk, Just take your time and follow Steve's steps and you will be fine. It's best to close them and turn them eqaul turns. meaning. Close one side. and then make on complete turn. Follow on the other side. Once that is set. Mark your tach and then adjust the first side by one full turn and then repeat on the otherside. If the idle is too high. Back them off a bit. But alternate each side. Do not do LR LR RL LR LR RL RL DO LR LR LR LR LR LR LR Matt | ||
| Henryk (Henryk)
Member Username: Henryk Post Number: 383 Registered: 8-2001 |
Thanks Steve. I assume that I will be doing this one side at a time. If so, then would I adjust one side to 850 RPM, before adjusting the other side?......Since opening the screw on the other side would also raise the idle.....thus both will raise it 300 RPM from the 700. Is this so? I would adjust so that the idle will be at 1000, with the vacuum the same. It sounds tricky, or am I making too much of it? | ||
| Steve Magnusson (91tr)
Intermediate Member Username: 91tr Post Number: 1300 Registered: 1-2001 |
Measure the pressure (vacuum) in the two intake manifolds -- they should be equal to ensure balanced flow. (Same applies to setting the throttle plates -- should be equal pressure, ~700 RPM, with both large air corrector screws fully closed. Then open the large air corrector screws to get the RPM to 1000 while keeping intake manifold pressures equal.) | ||
| Henryk (Henryk)
Member Username: Henryk Post Number: 381 Registered: 8-2001 |
The idle on my 83 BBi is 1200 RPM. I would like to get it down to 1000, per manual. I am aware of the large idle air screws. Do I turn each one in an equal amount, till I get 1000? BTW, how would one know if one of the screws were way off......would one side of the engine run faster? (HAHA)!!! |