| Author | Message | ||
| V.Z. (Ama328)
Junior Member Username: Ama328 Post Number: 85 Registered: 11-2002 |
Dunno, Bernard, nothing in the thread title or other posts specified much about a Mondial, and the originator's(Jim E) profile shows a GTS, so I went that direction... | ||
| Bernard Sharp (Fanatic)
New member Username: Fanatic Post Number: 8 Registered: 11-2002 |
V.Z., you haven't tried to take the battery out of a 1983 Mondial! I don't know about 308/328's or 348's, but you have to partially disassemble the car to get the battery out of a Mondial. The windshield washer bottle and pump and a portion of the bulkhead separating the radiator compartment from the spare tire compartment have to be removed. There are 7 or 8 nuts, bolts and washers that have to be removed, being careful not to drop any little parts down into the bowels of the inaccessible area below the battery support shelf. Even after all this, I still could not lift the battery straight up, even though it appeared to be the correct group 35 size. It was too long for the opening, so I had to tip it 90 degrees to get it out. Fortunately it was a sealed battery so there was no acid leakage. This is why I got a shorter battery. It still takes an hour to remove and replace everything, but now it can be lifted straight up and down. It doesn't bother me too much though, because it is located as low and forward and far from the driver as possible to help improve the weight distribution of the car. Viva Ferrari! | ||
| Mike Dawson (Miked)
Junior Member Username: Miked Post Number: 66 Registered: 2-2001 |
The battery in my Audi Turbo Quattro Coupe is in a well under the rear seat. The well is only slightly larger and just as deep as the battery. I use to have a nifty carrying strap/handle that would attach to the terminals but somehow it has recently been lost or lent out. In a pinch I just used 2 vice grips, each clamped to a terminal, as nice set of handles. They made removing the battery an easy task. The one thing that you DO NOT want to do is let the vice grips touch each other, instant short circuit, Yikkes!! | ||
| V.Z. (Ama328)
Junior Member Username: Ama328 Post Number: 72 Registered: 11-2002 |
Not sure what/where problemo is here, folks: * battery strap, as mentioned, to lift straight up/down... * ratchet/socket, with fairly long extension to loosen holding plate at front of battery... * wrench to loosen cables on battery posts. maybe 5 minutes, including pulling spare tire out of wheel well. I usually pull battery(using strap) out, rest it in wheel well and either doublecheck that strap is tight before lifting it over fender, or pick up battery carefully with both hands(safer than strap). Ouch if'n one drops/hits fender. | ||
| david handa (Davehanda)
Member Username: Davehanda Post Number: 432 Registered: 5-2001 |
Actually Ernie, from an article I read, the way battery manufacturers get those really big cold cranking amps numbers is to add more lead plates. The problem is if the case is not made bigger too, the plates are too close together, the "sulfates" that form between the plates can more easily short out the battery. So unless the case is appropriately larger, buying a battery with high CCA numbers (900 or 1000 CCA) may end up with a much shorter life than buying a battery with 650-750 CCA. | ||
| Bernard Sharp (Fanatic)
New member Username: Fanatic Post Number: 7 Registered: 11-2002 |
I bought a shorter battery for my Mondial to make it easier to remove and replace. Take carefull measurements of the existing battery, then go through the battery catalogue at your favorite parts store and find one that has dimensions you want. I ended up with a battery unique to some obscure Mercedes, but they had one in stock, and it had a higher capacity than the original. It's been working great for a year so far. | ||
| Ernie Bonilla (Ernie)
Member Username: Ernie Post Number: 500 Registered: 11-2001 |
Well it took me 45 minutes to pull the battery out of my 348. It is in the left rear wheel well. I had to remove the air tube for the filter, and the light cover for the rear light assembly. The part that really had me pissed, was when I couldn't get the lead connector off. Normally you just put a screw driver between the opening and wedge it open, but ooooh nooo this thing was like it was welded on. I had to bang on it to get it loose. I didn't want to go through the same pain if I ever had to take the battery out again and went to a smaller battery. The one that was in there was 750 cranking amp's, and I went to a 650. The car turns over with out a problem. You may want to try that. My friend works at the battery shop and told me, you only need 250 amps to turn over a V8, so 650 is more than double of what you need. Also go with the best battery, because the internals of the battery are better constructed. I think it has something to do with more lead in it. | ||
| BobD (Bobd)
Member Username: Bobd Post Number: 918 Registered: 3-2001 |
Jim, you're right, another couple of months and $22K just might be too high! | ||
| Jim E (Jimpo1)
Intermediate Member Username: Jimpo1 Post Number: 1132 Registered: 7-2001 |
I don't know Bob, $22k seems a little high.... | ||
| BobD (Bobd)
Member Username: Bobd Post Number: 913 Registered: 3-2001 |
Jim... and you have to be careful NOT to leverage your elbows on top of the fenders while you're leaning over & pulling the battery out.... or you'll be looking for the Paintless Dent Repair guy. EDIT: Just noticed your post that the battery was good.... Schlitz! Hope it's a quick and simple fix!!!! But what the he11, you can always buy a mint '89 for $22K these days.  | ||
| Ken (Allyn)
Member Username: Allyn Post Number: 618 Registered: 10-2001 |
Ha! I changed my Europa battery last week and it was the same thing: 30 min. trying to pull it straight up! I thought it was going to be easy too, but the Evil Midgets who built my car had struck again. | ||
| Jim E (Jimpo1)
Intermediate Member Username: Jimpo1 Post Number: 1124 Registered: 7-2001 |
Well, the battery is good. So SOMETHING is draining it while it sits. This is going to be fun. | ||
| TomD (Tifosi)
Intermediate Member Username: Tifosi Post Number: 2279 Registered: 9-2001 |
just be glad you don't have to remove the front wheel like you do on the mondial | ||
| Craig Dewey (Craigfl)
Member Username: Craigfl Post Number: 519 Registered: 1-2001 |
And... if you have an Optima, you can use the carrying strap that came with the battery. But, when it's going over the body, I always have a hand underneath it! | ||
| Carmine Nicoletta (Ncarmine)
New member Username: Ncarmine Post Number: 49 Registered: 6-2002 |
Jim, if you have the complete tool kit, there's a strap you can use to pull the battery out. | ||
| Henryk (Henryk)
Member Username: Henryk Post Number: 387 Registered: 8-2001 |
Jim: Go to an auto parts store and buy a simple battery pull-out strap.........will cost just a couple of bucks. It has two round metal ends that slip right over the posts, and self clamping action holds the battery. Easy in and out!!!!!!1 | ||
| Rob Lay (Rob328gts)
Board Administrator Username: Rob328gts Post Number: 3150 Registered: 12-2000 |
Yep, a back breaker for sure. Never had to remove mine, but had the negative come loose at an autocross. When your car doesn't start and you find out it's just a loose cable it's like the best news ever! | ||
| Jim E (Jimpo1)
Intermediate Member Username: Jimpo1 Post Number: 1122 Registered: 7-2001 |
I'm having battery problems, so went out to remove the old battery so I can take it to be tested tomorrow. Who would've guessed it was going to take me 30 minutes? The clamp at the bottom was a pain in the butt to get to. Once I got the clamp loose, how the hell do you get enough leverage to lift the 30lb battery straight up while leaning over the fender when your fingers will barely fit in the opening? The solution was, I wrapped a length of rope around the battery four times, then lifted with the rope. I bet the install is going to be a treat too. |