| Author |
Message |
Neil Green (Neilg)
| | Posted on Tuesday, July 31, 2001 - 6:38 am: | |
Pete, thanks for the tip. Expecting the replacement alternator to show up Wednesday, will give it a try then. |
'75 308 GT4 (Peter)
| | Posted on Tuesday, July 31, 2001 - 3:02 am: | |
I only have a jack and stands, so it still can be done. My arms are thin and I could squeeze it above the exhaust manifold and frame tube. Or you can reach it from going above the alt. Either way, its all a tight fit, be patient. The alt wires go around the dip-stick tube on my car, so it will bind if you pull it without disconnecting it. |
Neil Green (Neilg)
| | Posted on Monday, July 30, 2001 - 6:47 am: | |
I have the alternator almost off the car. Still need to disconnect the wires on the back. Pete, checked out your web page on alternator removal (very helpful). I see you recommend disconnecting the wires at the starter solenoid. Can you access this without a lift? I only have jacks/jack stands in my garage, and don't see an easy way to reach the solenoid. There doesn't appear to be enough slack in the wire harness to the alternator to pull it out a ways to disconnect the wires. Any tips, information will be greatly appreciated. |
Steve (Steve)
| | Posted on Sunday, July 29, 2001 - 6:45 am: | |
Neil I thought that I had an alt. problem last year with my 77 GTB and went through the removal process. It was straight forward once you look at it with the inner fender removed. I would then get the alt. checked , any auto shop can do it. Its a stock Bosch unit except for the pulley. Mine was OK but I had them pump it up to 85AMPS. Whole job for $125 and told them it was from an old Alfa. When I put it back everything seemed to work OK. A few months later I had the same condition with the red alt. light coming on. This time when I stepped on the brakes but it stayed on.Net is that the problem was in the fuse block. #1 fuse holder is loose so I switched the circuit to the Rear window defogger fuse (Don't use it anyway) and the problem went away. I'm going to fix the fuse block this winter when I have time to take it apart. Steve |
'75 308 GT4 (Peter)
| | Posted on Sunday, July 29, 2001 - 1:40 am: | |
Neil, I removed my alt. last year because of this very same problem. I documented the removal process on my own website, click below:
http://pages.sprint.ca/peters_ferrari/service.html
It'll take a little bit for the photos to download. I found my voltage regulator at a local autoparts store. With it back in, the car ran perfectly after (even with all of its other shortcomings). |
Martin (Miami348ts)
| | Posted on Saturday, July 28, 2001 - 8:47 pm: | |
take the light bulb out of the control light, lay it flat on the ground and use a 2 by 4, not a 2 by 6 or 2 by 2, but only a 2 by 4 and smash the damn thing. That will fix your problem right away. Takes about 5 minutes. |
'82 308gtsi (Mark)
| | Posted on Saturday, July 28, 2001 - 4:42 pm: | |
I've had to adjust my alternator belt reciently and found that there was no easy way to do it. I purchased a 17mm six point socket with 1/2" drive and carefully ground down the end that fits over the nut. Be careful not to grind away too much material at one time or you could ruin the socket. Try to keep the socket as cool as possible. Most sockets are chamfered and by grinding alittle metal (1/32" or so) I was able to get more contact area between the socket and the bolt. The bolt is short and has very little contact area. I wonder if you can replace the bolt with one that has more contact area? I used a large 1/2" breaker bar taking care not to screw up the bolt head.
Do you have a voltage meter? Test the voltage with the engine offat the battery. It should read about 12 volts. Then test it with the engine running. It should read about 13-14 volts. Try revving the engine and watch for voltage change. Another test that I have used in the past is to take off the negative battery terminal. If the motor continues to run the alternator is putting out voltage keeping the engine supplied with needed voltage for the ignition. I don't know if this may do damage to the computer in Ferraris that have them but it's a poor mans way of testing the alternator. Best of luck! Addio! Mark |
Neil Green (Neilg)
| | Posted on Saturday, July 28, 2001 - 3:44 pm: | |
Guys, thanks for the tips. Have you removed an alternator from a 308? Was looking at it earlier today, and don't see much clearance for removal. Hoping to pull it out through the right rear wheel well, past the crankshaft pulley, and not by having to remove the seats/firewall. Is there enough clearance to pull the alternator this way? I don't see any room underneath the unit for removal in the down direction(tubular frame, motor mount, etc are in the way).....thanks in advance.... |
Warren E. Smith (Magoo)
| | Posted on Friday, July 27, 2001 - 3:29 pm: | |
Neil, it does sound like the Reg.and or possible Alt. more than the battery. You will know soon when the battery runs down and it won't start. |
'75 308 GT4 (Peter)
| | Posted on Friday, July 27, 2001 - 1:13 pm: | |
Could be the battery, or more likely the voltage regulator. Voltage regulator is a small black box attached to the back of the altenator. |
Neil Green (Neilg)
| | Posted on Friday, July 27, 2001 - 5:48 am: | |
I started my 77 308 GTB this morning, and to my surprise the Alternator/Water Pump warning light would not extinguish. Usually it is on when the car is first started, and goes on once I rev the car. Checked the belt, and it is fine. Don't know if this is a tell tale sign the alternator is bad, or if other items can cause this. The battery is 2 years old. The water pump is new, and was installed late last year. Any ideas on where I should check? |
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