| Author | Message | ||
| david a haney (David512bb)
New member Username: David512bb Post Number: 24 Registered: 1-2002 |
Reply about the Boxer doors, only the outer skin is aluminum. The entire door frame is 18 ga. sheet steel. I had to dis-mantle my drivers door and re- skin it. | ||
| Paul (Pcelenta)
Member Username: Pcelenta Post Number: 268 Registered: 7-2002 |
I cut off the the door skin and bonded a fibreglass skins from Italian racing and design...no more rusty skins...also painted the inside frame with POR-15 | ||
| Verell Boaen (Verell)
Member Username: Verell Post Number: 506 Registered: 5-2001 |
RE: POR-15 Funny thing,you should mention it. I'm in the middle of de-rusting the 308's rocker panel seam between the door & the front of the rear wheelwell. There were only a few deep pits, only a couple of pinhole break-thrus. My POR-15 starter kit arrived late last week. (BTW: Their web site is www.por15.com ) This is my 1st use of it, but a it's been highly recommended in the F*chat & elsewhere. I'll be etching the seam area tonight with the POR METAL READY(R) phosphate conversion stuff. Tomorrow nite I should be applying the POR-15. There was a spot of body cancer about 3/4" across right where the rocker panel seam intersected the wheel well. Dirt collects there & holds moisture. I cut out the intersection, fabricated a replacement out of galvanized steel & MIG welded it in. I'm also stripping, etching, & applying black POR-15 to the pinch welds at the bottom of the rocker panel. They're in excellent shape, but have spots of light rust where the paint's chipped off & where some bozo didn't have his lift pads set high enough & the lift arm bent the pinch weld some. I guess I should feel pretty good as while I found some rust, I did NOT find any evidence that this area had had any prior rust repair. Also, there was no sign of rust under the undercoating which was a big relief. Means the undercoating was applied very early in the car's life & isn't hiding anything! | ||
| nick m........ (Nickm)
Junior Member Username: Nickm Post Number: 164 Registered: 8-2001 |
Take a look at POR 15. (Im sure there is a web site for it) I have had friends telling me about it for years. Finally had a chance to use it myself a few weeks ago. This stuff is unbelievable! You can brush it on and it will "self level", leaving a powdercoated looking finish. It drys very quickly, and leaves the surface hard as nails, and I mean hard as nails! It feels just like the surface of your clothing washer & drier. Awesome stuff and comes in 3 or 4 colors including clear! Oh yeah... remove loose rust, then paint right over the rust. Unbelievable. | ||
| Dave Penhale (Dapper)
Member Username: Dapper Post Number: 509 Registered: 4-2002 |
still think its better practice to ensure dry first, where possible. Then apply it as a protectorant. | ||
| Hans E. Hansen (4re_gt4)
Member Username: 4re_gt4 Post Number: 815 Registered: 4-2002 |
Actually, one of WD-40's strong points is that it will displace moisture. If you spray it on a wet surface, it will get under the water. That's the "Water Displacement" feature. On painted surfaces? I haven't done it, but I know people that use it for tar removal with good results. It's really questionable for it's main purpose: lubricant. As most of us have found the hard way, it turns to goo or wax. Try spraying it into a lock. Works great. For a while. Then take the lock to a locksmith so he can clean it out. | ||
| Dave Penhale (Dapper)
Member Username: Dapper Post Number: 494 Registered: 4-2002 |
I dont mean the car exterior paintwork, I mean mechanical bits n bobs, like hinges/latches, and many underhood (engine bay) areas | ||
| Dave Penhale (Dapper)
Member Username: Dapper Post Number: 493 Registered: 4-2002 |
Like Hans I'm a big advocate of WD40 or equivalents. Only thing to be wary of is that the items are 'bone dry' prior to you applying it. It keeps moisture out but by definition that means it will also lock moisture that may already be present IN! At the end of each summer season I cover many areas of my bike and all cars with WD40 (actually Halfords own version) then at the start of the next season I thouroughly wash off, keeps all the fittings/brackets etc looking like brand new. This process was essential on some more inferior quality vehicles I had in the past, a couple of Harley D's I owned spring to mind! Areas I try to avoid are exhausts and related hardware as the extreme heat combined with the WD coating can result in staining | ||
| Hans E. Hansen (4re_gt4)
Member Username: 4re_gt4 Post Number: 800 Registered: 4-2002 |
I sprayed WD-40 in the pinch seam in the bottom of the doors. WD-40 is much maligned as a lubricant, mostly because it thickens into sort of a wax. However, it penetrates, and the resulting wax isn't that bad of a rust preventative coating. And, remember, the "WD" stands for Water Displacement.  | ||
| Bruno (Originalsinner)
Member Username: Originalsinner Post Number: 912 Registered: 5-2002 |
I had my one 308 doors redone last May. I had the lower hals sealed with epoxy and then painted etc. I'll let u know it works. As far as I know the (black) rust never sleeps my body shop buddy did the epoxy with the thinking no air.no rust. But there may be enough air in the metal to do it anyway. Hey maybe it will slow it down. I will keep u posted but this will obviously be a long "road test". I hope. | ||
| JRV (Jrvall)
Member Username: Jrvall Post Number: 630 Registered: 11-2002 |
You can't stop the rust, it's already there. The insides of the doors are undercoated. However water/moisture finds it's way to untreated metal magnetically. You can try taking the panels off and spraying Navel Jelly type rust converters around, and by all means unplugg the water drain holes in the door bottoms. Boxers have Aluminum Doors btw, aluminum front & rear bonnets and steel center section.. | ||
| david a haney (David512bb)
New member Username: David512bb Post Number: 23 Registered: 1-2002 |
When I dismantled my Boxer prior to painting, the inside of the doors were undercoated, so no rust, but appeared to have had standing water at some time. But, underneath the door sill kick plate, was superficial rust, and it was slightly rusty around the sill drain hole. The sill plate came off by drilling out three rivets. | ||
| James H. (Jamesh)
Junior Member Username: Jamesh Post Number: 168 Registered: 5-2001 |
I notice recently that water collects inside the doors of my cars. The cars are parked facing upward on a fairly steep driveway and after a week of rain, when I open the door, a lot of water come pouring out of the drain hole in the door. Moving the doors back and forth, I can hear water sloshing inside. Was wondering if I should drill more drain holes at he bottom of the doors. Should I remove the door panel and spray undercoating inside the doors. Is there already undercoating inside the doors? Has anyone done anything to their car doors. I would hate to have the bottom of the doors to start developing rust. |