| Author | Message | ||
| Kurt Kjelgaard (Kurtk328)
Junior Member Username: Kurtk328 Post Number: 174 Registered: 3-2001 |
The hose cracks open right next to the clamp on the hose side - tightening the clamp will have no or very little effect. Take off the hose and take a look inside - you will be surprised. An emergency fix (what I did to get home) is to cut off about five centimeters and reattach hose with clamp. Drive carefully and keep and eye in the rearview mirror on the lookout for steam. | ||
| Carl Rose (Carl_rose)
Junior Member Username: Carl_rose Post Number: 75 Registered: 10-2002 |
Thanks for the advice. My coolant leak indeed appears to be from block-to-pipe hose; contorted a bit to tighten hose clamps and leak has slowed (but not completely stopped). Planning on removing & repairing rear wheel (nail in tread), replacing fuel filter, and inspecting simultaneously. Hopefully this weekend. BTW, I have the proper Bosch FI filter...any local sources/cross-references for line gaskets? (can I re-use previous?) Thanks once again,  Carl | ||
| Kurt Kjelgaard (Kurtk328)
Junior Member Username: Kurtk328 Post Number: 173 Registered: 3-2001 |
Ref. Marks comment: My 328 '86 blew the heater hose right where it goes onto the pipe fitted on the block. It didn't show any signs of bulging or other deterioriation prior to failure. Quite embarrassing to be stranded with a hissing and steaming Ferrari at the Croisette in Cannes!! If you are in need of repair, go all the way and replace the entire hose with modern heater hose. Check out the numerous threads on the subject It can be worth the effort. | ||
| Mark Foley (Sparky)
New member Username: Sparky Post Number: 23 Registered: 3-2002 |
Carl: A prime coolant leak area on the 328 is where the heater hose goes into the block. Feel the hose where is is attached to the block and if it is buldging you should at least replace the first foot or so. The repair is done easily after the LH wheel well is removed. Mark | ||
| '75 308 GT4 (Peter)
Intermediate Member Username: Peter Post Number: 2404 Registered: 12-2000 |
So Carl, does that mean you're making it next in carbon fibre?  I go high-tech and use the depth-gauge portion of my vernier caliper (I lock it down @ 6cm and when the depth-gauge breaks the surface tension of the coolant, I know I have enough). | ||
| Carl Rose (Carl_rose)
Junior Member Username: Carl_rose Post Number: 74 Registered: 10-2002 |
Hi V.Z., Actually I can do better than that. Anyone who'd like one let drop me a line -([email protected]) - I'll make you "supersecret stealth gauge" Mark 2,3... Carl | ||
| V.Z. (Ama328)
Junior Member Username: Ama328 Post Number: 82 Registered: 11-2002 |
care to post lengths of the various 'components' of your hitech 'prototype' ? | ||
| Carl Rose (Carl_rose)
Junior Member Username: Carl_rose Post Number: 73 Registered: 10-2002 |
Hi everyone, In my quest to determine source of my antifreeze leak that prevents garage floor icing came up with the following tool to check coolant reservoir level (that tank you peer into wondering "does that look adequately filled?):  Black line is minimum (6cm below filler neck) level. We're talking strickly Mark 1 prototype here - no alloys or titanium, future versions will have larger "T", possibly get painted red, or maybe even sanded...(smile...and "fabricated" sounded better than "homemade...!) Carl |