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Jerry W. (Tork1966)
Member
Username: Tork1966

Post Number: 380
Registered: 7-2001
Posted on Friday, January 24, 2003 - 10:34 am:   

Will do, thanks!
Steve Magnusson (91tr)
Intermediate Member
Username: 91tr

Post Number: 1348
Registered: 1-2001
Posted on Friday, January 24, 2003 - 10:26 am:   

Then you've just got to keep trying pressing/prying it off as uniformly as possible.
Jerry W. (Tork1966)
Member
Username: Tork1966

Post Number: 379
Registered: 7-2001
Posted on Friday, January 24, 2003 - 9:58 am:   

Steve, #1. Thanks, Jerry
Steve Magnusson (91tr)
Intermediate Member
Username: 91tr

Post Number: 1345
Registered: 1-2001
Posted on Friday, January 24, 2003 - 9:31 am:   

Jerry -- I'll assume that you removed the single large bolt with the thrust washer from the center. When you say "it moves back and forth" do you mean that: 1) the spline joint is already free (sliding) in the home position but as you try to withdraw the axle flange it stops, or 2) the spline joint is frozen (and the "back and forth" motion is some other internal play)?
Jerry W. (Tork1966)
Member
Username: Tork1966

Post Number: 378
Registered: 7-2001
Posted on Friday, January 24, 2003 - 9:16 am:   

Guys, please tell me how to get this last cone shaped housing off in order to get at the shaft seals. It moves back and forth but seems like there is something stopping it. Thanks in advance. Jerry.Upload
Tom Bakowsky (Tbakowsky)
Junior Member
Username: Tbakowsky

Post Number: 173
Registered: 9-2002
Posted on Wednesday, January 22, 2003 - 12:09 pm:   

Good tips steve!!
Steve Magnusson (91tr)
Intermediate Member
Username: 91tr

Post Number: 1335
Registered: 1-2001
Posted on Wednesday, January 22, 2003 - 9:56 am:   

A little 600~1000 grit refreshing of the seal contacting surface on the axle flange wouldn't hurt (i.e., simulating a fresh non-directional fine ground finish rather than a super-polished surface).

I've also got in my notes to use some RTV (and the appropriate preparation) under the large thrust retaining washer for the axle flanges at both the bolt OD/diff output shaft ID area and at the spline joint area (as Fig 12 in the WSM shows these can be lubricant migration paths to the outside world), and a dab of Loctite 242 (blue, medium) on the axle flange-to-diff bolt threads (at 55-65 ft-lbs). Good luck with the project.
Jerry W. (Tork1966)
Member
Username: Tork1966

Post Number: 371
Registered: 7-2001
Posted on Wednesday, January 22, 2003 - 5:58 am:   

Thanks Tom.
Tom Bakowsky (Tbakowsky)
Junior Member
Username: Tbakowsky

Post Number: 168
Registered: 9-2002
Posted on Tuesday, January 21, 2003 - 5:41 pm:   

It's not hard just time consumming,and a little help from a friend would mak the job go much easier when unbolting the axels from the diff drive flange and the spindal assembly. Once you have both axels out you can GENTLY pry out the seals. To replace is a little tricky. You may have to buy a seal driver or use an old socket the same diameter of the seal and use that to tap it in place. Go slow and make sure the seal in going in straight. Before installing the seal take a little bit of grease and put some on the inside lip of the seal that surrounds the axel flange.
Jerry W. (Tork1966)
Member
Username: Tork1966

Post Number: 367
Registered: 7-2001
Posted on Tuesday, January 21, 2003 - 4:27 pm:   

How hard is it to replace these seals? I have oil weeping out from this area. Any tricks/hints/suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks, Jerry.

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