| Author |
Message |
Steve Magnusson (91tr)
Intermediate Member
Username: 91tr
Post Number: 1365
Registered: 1-2001
| | Posted on Tuesday, January 28, 2003 - 10:07 am: | |
Understood (but I've not noted a serious problem restarting the oil tank drain plug by hand with the EB cables in place) -- I'm due for a engine oil change myself so I'll check out the situation more carefully. |
Henryk (Henryk)
Member
Username: Henryk
Post Number: 418
Registered: 8-2001
| | Posted on Monday, January 27, 2003 - 11:34 pm: | |
Steve: Your hand must be smaller than mine. When I try to start the bolt into the hole, by hand, I can't reach it, without removing the emergency brake cables. |
Steve Magnusson (91tr)
Intermediate Member
Username: 91tr
Post Number: 1364
Registered: 1-2001
| | Posted on Monday, January 27, 2003 - 11:27 pm: | |
Henry -- I'm not sure I understand your description ("recessed too much into the cavity") -- IIRC on mine, the oil tank drain plug is at the end of a male boss that protrudes down from the lower aluminum housing. I'll try to jpeg tomorrow. |
Henryk (Henryk)
Member
Username: Henryk
Post Number: 411
Registered: 8-2001
| | Posted on Monday, January 27, 2003 - 10:53 pm: | |
While I agree with the technical repairs stated, they don't seem to address the primary issue; that being the threaded bolt is recessed too much into the cavity.
I machined an aluminum piece, not steel, so that it is compatable with the aluminum housing.
Welding the hole shut (to re-tap) would cause distortion in the aluminum housing, creating a warped surface.....resulting in a leak around the housing, where it attaches to the oil tank. This is a big hole to weld up.
Self tapping screws are only for sheet metal IMO.
|
Mark Foley (Sparky)
New member
Username: Sparky
Post Number: 24
Registered: 3-2002
| | Posted on Monday, January 27, 2003 - 2:12 pm: | |
Scott:
I have used those rubber �stopper� type of plugs several times with great success. The ones I am referring to have a special installation tool that actually makes the plug swell on the inside like a rivet and they are reusable. They can last many years without the slightest leak.
The best repair would be to tap-out the hole oversize and put a steel or stainless steel insert in. Check http://www.mcmaster.com/ search for thread repair inserts and look at the locking type.
Aluminum is a very poor material to have to R&R fasteners�the steel inserts would be a great improvement.
Mark |
Steve Magnusson (91tr)
Intermediate Member
Username: 91tr
Post Number: 1356
Registered: 1-2001
| | Posted on Sunday, January 26, 2003 - 2:35 pm: | |
Scott -- I'm doubtful a self-tapping M18 plug would make a quality repair (if you can find one). I bought a 21/32" tap drill (with 3/8" drive shank) and a four-fluted M18 x 1.5P tap. The engine oil tank drain hole isn't in the oil tank itself but rather a small aluminum housing bolted to the bottom of the oil tank so you'll want to minimize forces if you try to do an in situ repair (so I'd go with a fresh tap). |
Scott Stokes (Desert_trojan)
New member
Username: Desert_trojan
Post Number: 31
Registered: 11-2002
| | Posted on Sunday, January 26, 2003 - 1:47 pm: | |
Can I just have a new hole tapped and use a larger drain plug?
Are there any self tapping plugs that will work?
So far the rubber stopper has worked with no leaks... |
Steve Magnusson (91tr)
Intermediate Member
Username: 91tr
Post Number: 1353
Registered: 1-2001
| | Posted on Sunday, January 26, 2003 - 12:44 am: | |
Obviously not an uncommon TR problem -- although I was able to redrill and retap from the stock M16 x 1.5P to M18 x 1.5P (and go to an M18 drain plug with more thread engagement -- the stock M16 drain plug is too short IMO) without removing the oil tank or the housing on the bottom of the oil tank with the drain plug boss. |
billy bob (Fatbillybob)
Junior Member
Username: Fatbillybob
Post Number: 161
Registered: 8-2002
| | Posted on Saturday, January 25, 2003 - 11:55 pm: | |
Henryk good fix. But it is easy to remove the tank and have someone put a "timesert" directly in the hole. Alternatively you can weld up the aluminium with a welder and re tap the hole. You must have threads. NO STOPPER! |
Henryk (Henryk)
Member
Username: Henryk
Post Number: 410
Registered: 8-2001
| | Posted on Saturday, January 25, 2003 - 11:42 pm: | |
Scott: I asume this is on your TR.
Had the same problem after changing oil on my TR when I bought it 5 years ago. The plug bolt is steel, and the oil tank cover is aluminum. Prior to purchase, this car was always serviced, since new, by a Ferrari dealer!!!!!
The problem is that the steel plug bolt is recessed deeply in a small cavity.....hard, if not impossible, to start the plug by hand. The emergency cables are in the way. I think the mechanics started this plug on the end of a socket, and extension....a no no in my book.....since one doesn't notice if the plug starts on the threads correctly. After numerous oil changes, this eventually strips the aluminum oil tank cover.
The solution, for me, was to remove the cover, drill out a larger hole, then thread it. I then machined an aluminum extension (about one inch), which screwed into the cover, with a threaded hole inside. This allowed a new plug bolt to be installed. The extension allows one to easily reach, and hand-thread the bolt into the cover...with the emergency cables in place.
Most mechanics are too lazy to remove the emergency cables, to hand thread the bolt....too much time.
I am not familiar with the rubber stopper fix. I would rather have threads.
|
Scott Stokes (Desert_trojan)
New member
Username: Desert_trojan
Post Number: 28
Registered: 11-2002
| | Posted on Saturday, January 25, 2003 - 11:04 pm: | |
Just changed my oil for the first time today. Seems that the last mechanic to change the oil cross threaded the drain plug on the oil tank. When the plug finally broke loose and came out, the threads from inside the tank were on the threads of the plug. I tried to find a self tapping plug from the auto parts store but no one had anything large enough. No Ferrari mechanics were open today. I found a "mickey mouse" rubber stopper with a molly (toggle) nut from Napa. Seems to work. Has anyone had any experience with these plugs - is the rubber stopper going to hold until the next oil change, or is it a "band aid" cure? Am I ever going to get that molly nut out?
What's the fix for this problem? |