| Author |
Message |
Hans E. Hansen (4re_gt4)
Member
Username: 4re_gt4
Post Number: 838
Registered: 4-2002
| | Posted on Thursday, January 30, 2003 - 10:49 am: | |
Apparently there were (are?) some synthetics that weren't (aren't?) dino compatible.
However, all current synthetics that I've seen specificly mention on the container that they are compatible with conventional oils. |
Verell Boaen (Verell)
Member
Username: Verell
Post Number: 510
Registered: 5-2001
| | Posted on Thursday, January 30, 2003 - 7:22 am: | |
I suspect this recommendation goes back to the '50s & possibly early '60s when oil compatibility hadn't been well established.
Also, if you were changing from a non-detergent oil to a high detergent oil, that 1st change would probably dissolve a log of deposits & flush them out. This was a big problem in the '60s when the high detergent oils came out. Someone would dump in high detergent oil into a gunked-up engine & the gunk would slough off into the sump,clog the oil filter & smaller passageways.
10 minuites seems a bit too short a time to for the detergents to do their work though.
If the car's been running a modern high-detergent oil, then I know of no reason to do the flush.
CAVEAT: I'm no expert on oils, just what I've read over the years.
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jeff ryerson (Atheyg)
Junior Member
Username: Atheyg
Post Number: 147
Registered: 8-2002
| | Posted on Wednesday, January 29, 2003 - 5:51 pm: | |
Does anyone know the reasoning why the Owners Manual states if you change brands of oil from Agip or ? to fill with 7.5qts of the new brand and run for 10 mins and rechange oil again to new brand?
Aren't most good oils pretty much the same or does a slight formulation brand difference make a Ferrari engine blow up?
Thanks in advance |