| Author | Message | ||
| Steven R. Rochlin (Enjoythemusic)
Junior Member Username: Enjoythemusic Post Number: 107 Registered: 4-2002 |
Damon, WOW, small world!!! Glad to meet you in another great forum! BTW, took the car out today for 4 hours of fun. If i can EVER help audio-wise feel free to let me know. ALWAYS glad to be of service. Enjoy The Ride, Steven R. Rochlin | ||
| Damon Bottorff (Prova7)
New member Username: Prova7 Post Number: 6 Registered: 7-2002 |
Steven, it has been years since I came across your name but it is nice to be reminded of Audio Asylum now and then. I now spend way too much money on cars rather than audio as I can only afford to do one at a time =) Enjoy the drive AND the music! -Damon | ||
| Steven R. Rochlin (Enjoythemusic)
Junior Member Username: Enjoythemusic Post Number: 105 Registered: 4-2002 |
Mike, Many thanks for posting! Going to drive my 308 to the car supply store for the bulbs as recommended by www.ferrariclub.com. If that solves it, great. If not, making the off/bypass change is easy enough. i LOVE working with pure mechanical parts as they are easy to modify/fix/fabricate. Lastly, will be using CAIG MCL lube (www.caig.com)on the "stat" and some Deoxit/etc on the wire connectors to lower insertion loss and improve the conductivity. Enjoy The Drive, Steven R. Rochlin | ||
| Mike Charness (Mcharness)
Junior Member Username: Mcharness Post Number: 193 Registered: 8-2002 |
Here's an interesting post from FerrariChat.com from "ferraridave1". I haven't tried it, but I like the idea. ================== The stock dimmer can be modified with a simple internal by-pass. I did this with my '83 308 GTS QV. The modification allows the full use of the rheostat for dimming the panel, but converts the "off" position (wiper on ceramic core) to full by-pass. The change made a big difference on my car. I used the brighter bulbs as well prior to doing the rheostat mod. With both, I wouldn't want the panel any brighter. The modification can be done as follows: (1) Disconnect battery (2) Remove instrument panel and rheostat dimmer) (3) Strip about 1/4" insulation off a 14 Ga stranded wire. The wire should be about 5" long (4) Tin the striped end with rosin core solder. Use flux for good flow. (5) Mix a small amount of epoxy adhesive (I prefer JB Weld) (6) Clean the ceramic where the wiper makes contact & tinned lead above with rubbing alcohol. (7) Mark the ceramic core where the wiper makes contact. (8) Apply a small dab of epoxy to the ceramic and attach the tinned end. Use a tie wrap to hold the wire in place while the adhesive sets. Wipe off any adhesive from the exposed tinned lead before it sets. (9) After the adhesive cures, remove the tie wrap and check the lead to ensure it is well adhered to the ceramic. Bend the tip of the wiper so that when it approches the tinned lead, the wiper "ramps" and makes contact. (10) Attach a small tie wrap around the wire to one of the steel rheostat frame legs. The idea is to ensure that if for any reason the lead breaks loose from the ceramic, it cannot short to ground. (11) Crimp or solder a female spade connector on the other end of the wire. Use a female spade with a spare male tap. The female connector will be connected to one of the male spade connectors on the dimmer. Refer to your wiring diagram for proper connection. Connect the stock female lead to the spare tap described above. Test & re-install panel. You have just converted the useless "off" position to a by-pass. Dimmer will work as stock. This looks more difficult than it is. I did mine over a year ago and it works great. If I ever have my panel off again, I'll take some pics. >Dave | ||
| stu cordova (Balataboy)
Member Username: Balataboy Post Number: 387 Registered: 4-2001 |
Nice job with the post Peter! Steven, I ordered the bulb upgrade from ICP and thought it was very expensive for what I was getting but installed it anyway. (I hate to admit it but I actually bought two of them so I could do ALL the guages!) Oh well...adding insult to injury, the brightness was not all that much better after installing the new bulbs, so I did the rheostat bypass and now all the gauges are wonderfully bright. I wasn't worried about not having a working rheostat, as I figured I'd never have a need to turn the brigtness down. As stated by others, easy to do. | ||
| James Selevan (Jselevan)
Member Username: Jselevan Post Number: 326 Registered: 6-2002 |
Interesting how things happen in pairs. Yesterday I did the same thing, frustrated with how dim the lights were on the Boxer. The rheostat is exactly the same. I simply bypassed it by jumping the two wires. The gauges are now VERY bright (for my old eyes). I was going to upgrade the instrument lights to halogen variety, but thought the better of it because of the higher operating temperature. I was concerned that it might discolor/melt the plastic around the bulb. Jim S. | ||
| david handa (Davehanda)
Member Username: Davehanda Post Number: 468 Registered: 5-2001 |
JRV, Good point! I did notice on my 308 that the gap was much smaller on the tach. Not sure on my 328 as it is in the shop right now.... | ||
| Steven R. Rochlin (Enjoythemusic)
Junior Member Username: Enjoythemusic Post Number: 103 Registered: 4-2002 |
David, Many thanks. Will return the kit once it arrives and follow the FAQ. MANY thanks. ALL help is ALWAYS appreciated. Enjoy The Drive, Steven R. Rochlin | ||
| JRV (Jrvall)
Member Username: Jrvall Post Number: 787 Registered: 11-2002 |
The tach face doesn't have the same size gap around the edge to let light out I believe. | ||
| david handa (Davehanda)
Member Username: Davehanda Post Number: 467 Registered: 5-2001 |
I have done the bulb upgrade on two cars, and have found (and others agree) that the speedo gets about 50% brighter, but the tach only about 10 to 15%, so it looks a little odd, as one side is a bit brighter than the other. This is partly a function that the two instruments take different types of bulbs, and the "brighter" bulbs, are not even in the amount of greater intensity over stock, I guess. Go to www.ferrariclub.com and check the FAQ's for more info. Bulb numbers are listed. If you bought the kit from Italiancarparts.com you got ripped off. Return it, and use the FAQ! Regards, Dave | ||
| Steven R. Rochlin (Enjoythemusic)
Junior Member Username: Enjoythemusic Post Number: 101 Registered: 4-2002 |
Peter, With a clearer head after a cup of espresso in my stomach i see all you did was bypass the rheostat. Has anyone installed the bulb update INSTEAD and can report on the results thereof? Would like the keep the functionality of the part. ALL help is ALWAYS appreciated. Enjoy The Drive, Steven R. Rochlin | ||
| Jorma Johansson (Jjfinland)
Junior Member Username: Jjfinland Post Number: 175 Registered: 3-2001 |
Peter, it�s allways a plesure to read your postings with beautifull pictures. Have you ever thought making a better workshop manual to 308  | ||
| Steven R. Rochlin (Enjoythemusic)
Junior Member Username: Enjoythemusic Post Number: 99 Registered: 4-2002 |
Peter, Have already ordered the bulb update and awaiting for it to arrive. Can you please further explain, in more detail, your modification(s). Would like to have a brighter dash. Many thanks. ALL help is ALWAYS appreciated. Enjoy The Drive, Steven R. Rochlin | ||
| Steve (Steve)
Member Username: Steve Post Number: 293 Registered: 2-2001 |
Peter I did the same on the GTB (different Reostat) and did the bulb update. Everything brightened up . The tach is still a little dim but all of the other gages are OK for night . | ||
| david handa (Davehanda)
Member Username: Davehanda Post Number: 464 Registered: 5-2001 |
Thanks Peter, I will try this on my 328, after I get it back from Carlo. The nice thing about the bypass trick is it helps ALL the gauges, rather than just the ones you put the brighter bulbs in, which is typically just the speedo and tach. | ||
| '75 308 GT4 (Peter)
Intermediate Member Username: Peter Post Number: 2454 Registered: 12-2000 |
There have been complaints in the past about how dim the gauges are at night, even with the dimmer rheostat switch cranked fully "on". The simple fix is to jump the wires directly (using a small length of wire and two male spade connectors. Instead of crimping the connectors on, I soldered them. I feel soldering makes an absolute contact). Here's some pics: The switch pulled from the dash. On a GT4, its only a matter of unscrewing the switch retaining-ring, reaching up and pulling it out:  The switch itself (connectors and the rheostat wiper arm):   Before the modification:  After:  As you can see, its a marginal improvement. I suppose if one has the patience (I don't), the bulb-upgrade can improve it still. FYI, I measured the resistance of the switch: -Fully bright was: 0.6 to 1 ohm -Fully dim was: 6 to 6.5 ohms |