Author |
Message |
JRV (Jrvall)
Member Username: Jrvall
Post Number: 840 Registered: 11-2002
| Posted on Friday, February 07, 2003 - 3:03 pm: | |
>>> the starter motor should not spin at all unless the part that extends to the flywheel is fully extended.<< When working perfectly the above is true, however, when not working correctly, the starter motor can spin, yet the gear will not fly out to catch the flywheel...which indicates a bad Bendix Drive Mechanism, of which there is more than one part. Now that you jogged my memory, I have seen the attaching pin on the bendix drive fulcrum arm come loose and fall out, which prevents the gear from moving forward to engage the flywheel. something you might want to check before pulling out the starter. |
Schumi (Schumi)
Junior Member Username: Schumi
Post Number: 88 Registered: 6-2002
| Posted on Friday, February 07, 2003 - 2:46 pm: | |
After speaking with my mechanic, the starter motor should not spin at all unless the part that extends to the flywheel is fully extended. Are there any other motors or anything that would start when the key is turned to the start position but not when at the "on" position? This problem has never occurred before and did not occur when hot. Thanks for the response. |
Simon Campbell (Simonc)
Junior Member Username: Simonc
Post Number: 71 Registered: 2-2002
| Posted on Friday, February 07, 2003 - 4:16 am: | |
This is a common fault. The car starts fine when cold but when it gets hot the starter does not work, no click from the solenoid, nothing. As soon as it cools down again it is OK. Sometimes a jump start from another battery will get it working. It is caused by the solenoid. The solenoid jams when it expands and does not throw out the pinion to the ring gear. A voltage drop across the switch contact (another known fault) just makes the problem worse, which is why a jump start may help. Some people fit a relay in the circuit which removes the voltage drop across the switch and masks the problem but it will probably return as the solenoid deteriotes. Given the work involved in removing the starter it is best to fit a complete rebuilt unit. I changed mine recently and here are the steps involved: 1) Remove battery for safety 2) Remove relevant air-filter 3) Remove exhaust manifolds from this side engine and from the rest of the exhaust on this side of the car 4) Undo wiring (three wires) 5) Undo easy to get at 19mm lower nut and washer 6) Undo slightly more difficult 17mm (yes 17mm) upper nut 7) Starter drops out underneath the car The space around the upper nut is a bit tight and I had been warned I might need to make a special spanner but a standard spanner from a Mercedes tool kit fitted perfectly. This is a combination that is 19mm open ended at one end and a 17mm ring spanner at the other, and about 4 inches long. Refitting is the reverse of removal. In the UK a rebuilt starter costs around �300. If you buy a solenoid and new pinion fom Ferrari they are around �200 so it is best to buy a rebuilt unit. Simon 1977 400 Auto in London |
brett swaykoski (Brettski)
New member Username: Brettski
Post Number: 13 Registered: 11-2002
| Posted on Thursday, February 06, 2003 - 6:22 pm: | |
my 400 experienced some intermittent hot start problems and a few other gremlins that i figure are part of ferrari's somewhat mysterious electronic systems.maybe an ignition switch??? |
JRV (Jrvall)
Member Username: Jrvall
Post Number: 825 Registered: 11-2002
| Posted on Wednesday, February 05, 2003 - 12:02 pm: | |
I haven't heard of much success rebuilding them, however you might try an external Ford type solenoid first. Then if rebuilding & the solenoid doesn't prove successful you might need to look into buying a new one. If left unaddressed for too long the Flywheel teeth can become damaged also. |
Schumi (Schumi)
Junior Member Username: Schumi
Post Number: 87 Registered: 6-2002
| Posted on Wednesday, February 05, 2003 - 10:48 am: | |
Has anyone experienced a starter motor not engaging on their 400 series car? If so, what did you do about it? |