| Author |
Message |
Adam Goldman '86 TR (Icnsltmfg)
Member
Username: Icnsltmfg
Post Number: 536
Registered: 8-2001
| | Posted on Tuesday, February 18, 2003 - 5:44 pm: | |
While you have the door panel off, tighten the two bolts that hold the window lift cable to the window. These loosen and cause misalignment of the window and somwtimes slow windows. Mine was very loose, and the dealer wanted to replace everything in the door, haha... |
Glen Mckenna (Johndillinger)
Junior Member
Username: Johndillinger
Post Number: 76
Registered: 7-2002
| | Posted on Monday, February 17, 2003 - 3:23 pm: | |
thanks james - ill give it a go |
James Selevan (Jselevan)
Member
Username: Jselevan
Post Number: 347
Registered: 6-2002
| | Posted on Monday, February 17, 2003 - 1:13 pm: | |
It is not difficult to take the interior panel off. I had to do it to re-weld my door stop.
Do not bother prying up the rubber o-ring around the plastic lock stalk. The door panel will come off with the lock stalk intact.
There are several small sheet metal screws around the periphery of the panel. Remove these with a Phillips screwdriver. There is a large Phillips (if I remember correctly) angles up from the inside sturdy door pull-handle. There are two 11 mm (maybe 12 mm) screws that have to be removed - I think I had to remove the rectangular plastic "junk" holder to get to these screws. The "Junk" holder simply lifts out.
Lift off the linkage for the lock by simply unsnapping the plastic locks. The door panel should come off. (You will have to lift up to remove the lip from the top of the door).
There will be a heavy black plastic cover to prevent water from ruining the interior door panel. Carefully tease away the black plastic. I used electrical tape to reinstall (taped around the periphery of the black plastic).
The 10 mm screws holding the "strakes" should now be visible. As mentioned. I would remove them all and apply 10 coats of wax, sealer, plastic, Plexiglas, dry wall, etc. (You get the message - after going through the painful exercise, might as well clean and wax the heck out of the door and slats.)
Finally - I would grease the power window cables and pulleys. Straighten any felt channel that might have become distorted. Zip tie any loose wires (speaking of which - there are lights in the ash tray that will have to be disconnected).
Good luck - let me know how it goes.
Jim S. |
ross koller (Ross)
Member
Username: Ross
Post Number: 700
Registered: 3-2002
| | Posted on Monday, February 17, 2003 - 12:20 pm: | |
and to think that my dealer said these needed to be re-welded ! what a joke! so how hard is it to take the door apart and back together again? |
Glen Mckenna (Johndillinger)
Junior Member
Username: Johndillinger
Post Number: 75
Registered: 7-2002
| | Posted on Monday, February 17, 2003 - 6:48 am: | |
how difficult was it to remove the interior panel? |
Bart McMurry (Mcmurb)
New member
Username: Mcmurb
Post Number: 32
Registered: 9-2002
| | Posted on Monday, February 17, 2003 - 6:44 am: | |
bingo, i see exactly what you are talking about. thanks a million Jim.
Bart |
James Selevan (Jselevan)
Member
Username: Jselevan
Post Number: 346
Registered: 6-2002
| | Posted on Sunday, February 16, 2003 - 9:29 pm: | |
Bart, sit on the ground and look up at the "strakes". You will see a 10 mm screw-head that goes through the doorskin. To tighten them, you must remove the interior panel of the door, plastic lining, and tighten the nut on the inside of the metal doorskin while you hold the 10 mm head of the screw. I have contemplated tightening my as well. HOWEVER, if I were going to this trouble, I would first remove all of them, and clean and wax the door. It is nearly impossible to wax the door with these on.
Jim S. |
Bart McMurry (Mcmurb)
New member
Username: Mcmurb
Post Number: 30
Registered: 9-2002
| | Posted on Sunday, February 16, 2003 - 7:52 pm: | |
mine seem to rattle over small bumps. narrow strakes appear to be loose at rear end of door. On inspection, I couldn't find any screws to tighten.
Any experience/fixes? Thanks in advance. |