| Author |
Message |
Walt Pfirman (Waltp)
New member
Username: Waltp
Post Number: 16
Registered: 7-2002
| | Posted on Tuesday, March 04, 2003 - 2:15 pm: | |
Is it difficult to rebuild rear calipers on a 1980 308? Someone had posted an exploded view or it may have been a photo of their caliper but I can't find it now. Anyway, any thoughts or cautions will be appreciated. I have read that T. Rutlands is a good place to get the rebuild parts. |
Philip Airey (Pma1010)
Junior Member
Username: Pma1010
Post Number: 147
Registered: 7-2002
| | Posted on Monday, February 24, 2003 - 3:08 pm: | |
Ric and Steve
Thanks for the advice. Ric, I'll send you an email offline. I am also going to have my tech look at the adjuster and see if he can get one made up. |
Steve Magnusson (91tr)
Intermediate Member
Username: 91tr
Post Number: 1434
Registered: 1-2001
| | Posted on Monday, February 24, 2003 - 10:04 am: | |
The adjuster just "floats" in-between the internals and the screw-in protection cap (which is why with the protection cap missing your adjuster probably just fell out). IME the adjuster will often will "stick" to the end of the hex key when you're making the adjustment so it's not uncommon for the adjuster to come out with the hex key when you withdraw it. I've never tried to deliberately just withdraw the adjuster itself, but something like "tweezers/needle-nose pliers/soft-glueing a hex key into the female socket" should get it out. |
Ric Rainbolt (Ricrain)
Member
Username: Ricrain
Post Number: 494
Registered: 2-2002
| | Posted on Monday, February 24, 2003 - 9:59 am: | |
You can use the other side's adjuster. Extract it from the other caliper, clean it, and insert it into the other side. Don't loose it, 'cuz you're down to one now!.
I can send you a pair of stainless caps if you email me your shipping address.
|
Philip Airey (Pma1010)
Junior Member
Username: Pma1010
Post Number: 146
Registered: 7-2002
| | Posted on Monday, February 24, 2003 - 9:50 am: | |
Steve
Thanks for the response and the correct interpretation despite my mislabeling the parts! Is the adjuster held in by a circlip or just a push fit?
Philip |
Steve Magnusson (91tr)
Intermediate Member
Username: 91tr
Post Number: 1431
Registered: 1-2001
| | Posted on Sunday, February 23, 2003 - 9:26 pm: | |
Philip -- I think you're mis-interpreting the SPC a bit -- item 22 is the bleed screw and item 23 is a snap-on rubber protective cap for the bleed screw. The screw-in metal protective cap for the adjuster is shown mounted on the rear caliper housing in the SPC illustration, but it's not labeled separately. The adjuster piece that you're missing does just drop right in (the end that goes inward has a small pinion gear form IIRC and the outer end of the adjuster has the female hex socket for your hex wrench). I believe you could extract the adjuster from the passenger side rear caliper and use it on the driver's side caliper to move the inboard piston back. Perhaps Whitepost could help you find a replacement adjuster -- just a thought... |
Philip Airey (Pma1010)
Junior Member
Username: Pma1010
Post Number: 144
Registered: 7-2002
| | Posted on Sunday, February 23, 2003 - 8:18 pm: | |
In replacing my rear brake pads over the weekend (Thanks Steve M, great directions), I found that the cap and adjuster on the (driver's side) inside caliper were missing. These are shown in my 78 parts catalog as ATE parts, and the table identifies the cap as 23 and the adjuster as 22.
Those of you that have replaced your rear pads (and I think the process is the same on the TR) know that you use this adjuster to align the "resting position" of the pad. The passenger side was no problem, with the requiste feeler gauge enabling the correct gap to be achieved. The only point of some surprise was that you rotate the outer adjuster counter clockwise to move the piston out, towards the rotor. I'm afraid I don't recall the rotation on the inner adjuster, but it left me wondering whether the adjuster is impacting the back of the piston directly or working via some sort of fulcrum. (Anyone know?).
Anyway, in addressing the driver's side cap/adjuster mechanism, the outer was manipulated to spec as on the passenger side, however the inner cap and adjuster were missing. Gentle prying on the piston would not move the piston back into the caliper and, while I did fit the new pad, a 200 yd drive did nothing but confirm the pad is wedged tightly onto the disk.
I need a caliper with an operative inner adjuster. Is this a simple matter of buying the part and screwing it in the exposed hole, and toping off with the exterior cap? Unfortunately, while I can get a shop light close to the exterior hole, I can't see if there is anything within it. I do know a small allen wrench or similar probing tool will go into the hole for a couple of inches (versus the almost immediate engagement of the allen wrench with part no.22 on the passenger side). |