| Author | Message | ||
| Steve Magnusson (91tr)
Intermediate Member Username: 91tr Post Number: 1490 Registered: 1-2001 |
I've no experience needing to measure the other end of the 308 2-valve air injector nozzle. Whether or not it's a "DIN such-and-such" standard I can't say. | ||
| Philip Airey (Pma1010)
Junior Member Username: Pma1010 Post Number: 170 Registered: 7-2002 |
One other question, what is the thread type and size on the head of the air injector to air injector manifold thread? Metric, pipe? | ||
| Philip Airey (Pma1010)
Junior Member Username: Pma1010 Post Number: 169 Registered: 7-2002 |
Steve Thanks for the info. Yes, I just got one of the AI buggers out. I thought being screwed into the head they'd be a lot easier than the manifold, but I was wrong. Thanks too for thread size, I'll need that for the bolts/plugs. Assume I'll need to cut down fourbolts assuming I can get the others off. | ||
| Steve Magnusson (91tr)
Intermediate Member Username: 91tr Post Number: 1489 Registered: 1-2001 |
Oops -- here's the jpeg (of a broken air injector nozzle 108205):  | ||
| Steve Magnusson (91tr)
Intermediate Member Username: 91tr Post Number: 1488 Registered: 1-2001 |
Philip -- you said "thread size", but I think you mean hex size (which is 17mm -- the thread into the cyl. head is M14 x 1.5P just for reference). There's no locknut -- it's all one piece:  | ||
| Philip Airey (Pma1010)
Junior Member Username: Pma1010 Post Number: 168 Registered: 7-2002 |
Bill/All I have just got the rear air injection manifold off the car (yes, it is a b***** to access). This leaves the injectors. Looks like they are screwed in with a locknut. can anyone confirm the thread size (17mm?) Philip | ||
| Bill Sebestyen (Bill308)
Member Username: Bill308 Post Number: 428 Registered: 5-2001 |
Philip, The car was up on jack stands, engine cover off, air cleaner assy off, no AC compressor or associated brackets, and both wheel well covers off. The exhaust manifolds were on. As I recall, access to the rear air injection manifold was from above and from both sides. The tubing nuts were not that tight, just very difficult to get a wrench on and very little turning arc. At some point during removal, each of the nuts loosened up enough to completely back them off with finger pressure. Reinstallation was started by fingers until a couple of threads were caught on each nut. You don't want to cross thread anything. It took me about 2-hours to remove each one and two hours to repleace each one with the car as described above. | ||
| Philip Airey (Pma1010)
Junior Member Username: Pma1010 Post Number: 167 Registered: 7-2002 |
Bill On the airpump manifold removal, how did you "attack" the nuts holding the manifold into the head on the rear set of ports? From above, below, side? Also, one you could get a wrench on them, how hard to remove? My gut says, that being screwed into aluminum, they shouldn't be a bear, unless the but is "frozen" on the manifold just awful to access. Did you pull the exhaust manifold to access? | ||
| Bill Sebestyen (Bill308)
Member Username: Bill308 Post Number: 421 Registered: 5-2001 |
I was able to remove and replace the air injuction manifolds on my 78 GTS, while it was on the car. It wasn't easy though. I had to makeup a sheet metal, shorty, open end wrench to get to some of the tubing nuts. Surprisingly, the manifold toward the rear of the car was more difficult to remove and replace than the one on the firewall side of the engine. I did use plenty of antisieze when I put the replacements on. | ||
| Philip Airey (Pma1010)
Junior Member Username: Pma1010 Post Number: 161 Registered: 7-2002 |
I have removed the airpumps, associated plumbing and everything bar the air injection manifold in the rear (and front) manifolds. Put caps on the end of the tubes. Cleaned it all up and put everything in a box (and labelled the parts for a failing memory if ever it comes time to put it back). Amazing how much "room" it opens up around the engine. Everything you guys have told me/I've read elsewhere on FChat says remove the air inj. manifold only when the engine is out of the car. Shame. Looks ugly. | ||
| Bruno (Originalsinner)
Intermediate Member Username: Originalsinner Post Number: 1012 Registered: 5-2002 |
Had to redrill and tap all 8 of mine. had to remove engine. Did it at last 30k. It is a bear. | ||
| Steve Magnusson (91tr)
Intermediate Member Username: 91tr Post Number: 1470 Registered: 1-2001 |
My bad... | ||
| Philip Airey (Pma1010)
Junior Member Username: Pma1010 Post Number: 158 Registered: 7-2002 |
Steve Thanks. I (think I) am asking a different question - I am talking about the air injection tube removal (from the airpumps and associated plumbing) on the rear header. Philip | ||
| Steve Magnusson (91tr)
Intermediate Member Username: 91tr Post Number: 1468 Registered: 1-2001 |
"preserved the integrity"? -- no. I bought fresh exh. sampling tube sets (to keep in the toolkit) for both my ex-308 and TR. IIRC you can get to the sampling tubes on the 308 front header from below (but it's a lot easier during a timing belt service with the AC compressor, timing belt cover, water pipes, etc. off with access from below and thru the RH wheel well). | ||
| Philip Airey (Pma1010)
Junior Member Username: Pma1010 Post Number: 157 Registered: 7-2002 |
Steve/anyone Has anyone successfully removed the (rear) air injection pipes and preserved the integrity of the pipes with the engine still in the car? How did you access the nuts -- from above or below? Just looks like a painful job and I've got to believe it's all pretty fragile with the repeated heating and cooling cycles. Having said that, I removed one of the plugs in the rear manifold for the exhaust gas sampling and it came out lickety spit... Philip | ||
| j scott leonard (Jscott)
Member Username: Jscott Post Number: 312 Registered: 1-2002 |
Thanks Steve: I knew I could count on you for great instructions. Appreciate it much. Scott | ||
| Steve Magnusson (91tr)
Intermediate Member Username: 91tr Post Number: 1465 Registered: 1-2001 |
Jscott -- Both the 110860 plug and the stock sampling tube hex fitting screw into the bung. You'll probably need to drill out the embrittled old hex fitting material as best you can (but it never hurts to try turning them out first -- if they disenegrate nothing lost IMO) and then chase the M12 x 1.25P threads in the bung on the exh. pipe with a bottoming tap (i.e., a tap with most of the nose ground off). At the bottom of each bung is a reverse flare joint shape (that mates with the flared stock sampling tube) that you'll want to preserve so don't plunge the drill overly deep. Good luck with the fix... | ||
| j scott leonard (Jscott)
Member Username: Jscott Post Number: 311 Registered: 1-2002 |
I hope someone can give me a little help. I have taken the four co test pipes off, actually they are broken! The tubes broke off near where they enter the exhaust manifold. How do you get the remaining piece out? How do you install the 110860 plug? Does it screw into the port? Any thoughts or suggestions. I have read that others have used screws coated with JB Weld, but I would rather use the plugs if I can figure out how to remove the old test tube. Thanks. |