| Author | Message | ||
| Ben Millermon (Brainsboy)
Junior Member Username: Brainsboy Post Number: 135 Registered: 5-2001 |
On the body Shultz, It comes white, and is a laquer based spray. There is a special gun you need to buy but its only about 9.00$. You can however add paint to the body shultz. This is what I did when I painted my 308, then when you do get chips you will see the same color behind it, hiding all the chips. Also you can buy a product that keeps the paint from getting to hard. Its usualy used with fiberglass cars to help stress cracks from developing but you can add a little bit to the paint on these shulzed areas, which helps make it chip resistant. | ||
| BobD (Bobd)
Intermediate Member Username: Bobd Post Number: 1073 Registered: 3-2001 |
I just noticed this. Go to the very bottom of this thread where Dave describes changes to the bonnet coinciding with ABS models ("From Dave328GTB, changes by VIN").... http://www.ferrarichat.com/discus/messages/21/169507.html | ||
| Daniel B Reese MD (Dbr328gtb)
Junior Member Username: Dbr328gtb Post Number: 153 Registered: 5-2001 |
Just saw a front decklid grill- brand new- for sale on ebay | ||
| Daniel B Reese MD (Dbr328gtb)
Junior Member Username: Dbr328gtb Post Number: 152 Registered: 5-2001 |
If your car is pre 88.5- strut on left and has a locking ball 88.5-89- strut on right which is gas filled | ||
| Rob Lay (Rob328gts)
Board Administrator Username: Rob328gts Post Number: 3958 Registered: 12-2000 |
My s/n is 61701. Yes, I want to replace it because of a bend that was somewhat corrected with a previous owner. It now doesn't have the "locking" strut. I also have a bad ding in the middle that they fixed the best they could, but still a little noticable. I'll take a picture of mine and I can't say if it's orginal, but I'm 99% sure because of the condition. Mine doesn't have insulation, but the entire underside is sprayed with a gritty black stuff that Verell described as 'schutz'. | ||
| ken rentiers (Rentiers)
Junior Member Username: Rentiers Post Number: 116 Registered: 2-2003 |
Yikes! Steve is correct. Fwiw after 76625 is where the new front suspension pieces appeared, along with convex wheels. Rob; a) what is your serial #? b) does the new hood have straight posts or curved posts? -ken- '89 328 GTB 78881 built 10/88 | ||
| Steve Magnusson (91tr)
Intermediate Member Username: 91tr Post Number: 1498 Registered: 1-2001 |
Can I sound like a broken record? Go to FerrariUK site and look at the 328 front bonnet SPC illustrations -- there's a whole gaggle of different 328 front bonnets (with break points at 75592 and 76625 and LHD-RHD differences), but it seems: if the underside bar towards the windshield side is straight (like Carl's) then no insulation (or "carpet"), or if the underside bar towards the windshield side is jogged (like Ken's) then it does have the insulation. | ||
| Carl Rose (Carl_rose)
Junior Member Username: Carl_rose Post Number: 90 Registered: 10-2002 |
This is turning into an interesting post - perhaps we have described another difference between '89 and earlier cars? Re-inspected underside of my hood - no rivet holes nor areas where adhesive appears to have been cleaned off. Serial # is around 677 as I recall June 1988? Should my car have the underhood insulation? Or maybe built on Friday afternoon?  Carl | ||
| ken rentiers (Rentiers)
Junior Member Username: Rentiers Post Number: 115 Registered: 2-2003 |
Rob: You have a late 328 don't you? Looks like it from the hood strut. Mine still has it's original paint and has a layer of what appears to be sound deadening material riveted to the inside. There is a smaller piece of similar stuff over the luggage area. Looks OEM to me.  I recently had my stone-chipped grill repainted by FoH at the new body shop. I HIGHLY recommend you consider letting them do this, they have all the computerized color matching etc. Besides it's worth a trip to see the Challenge cars getting straightened out. Not cheap - the grill cost several hundred but it is a very difficult and time consuming thing to strip, sand and paint. Came out perfect paint match for my 1989. They did it for exactly what the estimate was, did it timely for me to re-install and head for CA, and it was a most pleasant experience. Just my $.02 -ken- | ||
| Daniel B Reese MD (Dbr328gtb)
Junior Member Username: Dbr328gtb Post Number: 151 Registered: 5-2001 |
Rob, Are you replacing the hood because of the usual kink caused by the strut? I had this work done by David Carte who restores Marriott's cars. He matched my color perfectly, so a good shop should be able to do it too. To prevent the kink from happening again, I took the strut off the hood (leaving it attached to the body) and taped it down to the inner panel. I simply put it back on for shows, otherwise I use a hood prop from Griot's. Also I agree that you should transfer your serial number sticker to the new hood. I have seen some black under surfaces on 89 328s but I dont think they are original to early ones. Could you have it stripped and painted? Dan | ||
| Ron Shirley (Easy_rider)
Member Username: Easy_rider Post Number: 298 Registered: 12-2002 |
Thanks Ron, that is the site I was referring to. | ||
| Carl Rose (Carl_rose)
Junior Member Username: Carl_rose Post Number: 89 Registered: 10-2002 |
Hi Rob, Don't know if this'll help but here's a picture of the underside of my believed-to-be-unmolested late-88 328. Second picture is that rectanglular serial # ID label you may want to transfer to new hood. Carl  | ||
| Ron R (Ronr)
Junior Member Username: Ronr Post Number: 148 Registered: 10-2002 |
http://www.redlinerennsport.homestead.com/Ferrari.html Here's the link to the paint shop. Pretty impressive process. | ||
| Ron Shirley (Easy_rider)
Member Username: Easy_rider Post Number: 295 Registered: 12-2002 |
Recently I read a thread about someone completely stripping to bare metal and repainting a 308. The thread had a link to a site where the owner was documenting the process. The shop doing the work was somewhere in New York State. I cannot find the thread today to give you a link but the site had many pictures and descriptions of the work. The process described was almost exactly like Verell's description but it gave pictures and examples to go along with it. It even had pictures of the sanding blocks and what the car looked like at each sanding step. I am sure you can find the thread or someone else can remember it better than I. Maybe that will help to enhance the Verell's description. I thoroughly enjoyed reading about it. | ||
| Verell Boaen (Verell)
Member Username: Verell Post Number: 598 Registered: 5-2001 |
re: Paint matching The paint supply shops & the larger body shops have a color scanner that lets them exactly match the current color. They have a computer data base that can tell them how to exactly recreate the original paint's color & texture, but you're right, you want to match the current color, not the original one. Reds & Blues are notorious for changing with time, sunlight & weathering. | ||
| Verell Boaen (Verell)
Member Username: Verell Post Number: 597 Registered: 5-2001 |
It's all pretty standard when it's done right. The general process is: If it's like most ferrari panels, It'll have dings & tooling marks in the surface. Get it as smooth as possible with a body file and then 80 & 125 or 150 grit sandpaper. Put a skim coat of filler over it, & then sand most of it off again with a long, flat sanding block or panel sander. Spray with 1-2 coats of light grey or cream colored primer, wet sanding each coat smooth with 180, 300, & 400 grit, again using a long flat block or panel sander. Mist the 2nd primer coat with black lacquer.(SEM makes something specificly for this, but it isn't too critical.) Lightly wet sand with 400 grit to see if there are any high or low spots. The black mist coat will sand off of the high spots first. Keep sanding it down until the mist coat disappears. If necessary, spray again with prime, mist, & sand again. Give it a final wet sanding with 600 grit. The amount of care taken in the above steps will determine how good the final finish is. Finally, spray with a cream colored sealer (it's really a pale yellow.) & give it 2-3 wet coats of the base color, letting each coat flash off for ~10-15 min before the next coat(use paint mfg's time & adjust for temp/humitity, it's an art.). Let it dry, wet sand it with 800 grit, then spray another 2-3 wet coats. Finally 2-3 clear coats if it's a 2-stage paint. Let it cure for a few days then wet color sand with 2000 or 2500 grit & polishing compound. (There are some variations as to how much sanding & the grits, number of coats, etc. but that's basicly the process.) My 308 QV's bonnet has a fairly smooth coat of chassis black on the bottom. Same finish as the engine compartment. Most likely the gritty black is what's called 'schutz'. It's a chip guard that's sprayed on the rocker panels. It can be left it's natural black as you describe. Often on the rocker panels It's given one or more color coats that smooth out the texture some. Your Rx7's rocker panels are color coated over the schutz. Again, pretty standard quality work. The quality is heavily determined by the amount of time spent on the priming/sanding steps, & the skill of the color sprayer. A cheap shop will just sand with 320 or 400 grit, spray a couple of color coats. I strongly recommend a urethane enamel like DuPont Chroma One. The acrylic enamels just don't polish out to the gloss & deep, wet looking color. Also, the urethane paints cure to an extremely hard, chip resistang finish. This makes the timing of the intial polishing a bit touchy. It needs to be done after the paint has finished leveling itself out & done almost all of the shrinking it's going to do, but before the paint has cured to a hardness that makes it very difficult to polish it. Again, knowing the paint is very important to getting this timing right. | ||
| Rob Lay (Rob328gts)
Board Administrator Username: Rob328gts Post Number: 3951 Registered: 12-2000 |
I bought a new unpainted front 328 bonnet and need advice... Can I trust most good paint shops to match the paint? I would think if they matched the orginal paint code, then it will be too bright compared to the orginal 17 year paint job on the rest of the car. Also, the underside is a weird covering. It looks like it was painted underneath, but there's a gritty black covering. Does anyone know exactly what this is and can a paint shop do it? Also, the base metal is just a silver coloring, what is the proper layering process? Do you just paint right on this or are there undercoats? How many layers of paint and then clear coat? Thanks, rob |