| Author | Message | ||
| JRV (Jrvall)
Intermediate Member Username: Jrvall Post Number: 1089 Registered: 11-2002 |
>>In most cases the seizure surface is the contact face of the nut with the clamped material, NOT the threads of the nut and bolt.>> Were talking nut & bolt here and clamping force...the bolt stretches appling screw force on the threads of the nut, clamping the unit together. As I understand it, the force that must be overcome is that at the Bolt Head to surface and contact area of Nut Threads. | ||
| Mark Foley (Sparky)
New member Username: Sparky Post Number: 36 Registered: 3-2002 |
Here's my "tip of the day". A friend of mine is a professional mechanic, and he gets stuff loose by tapping things with a hammer or a drift punch and a hammer. Those "taps" have helped me several times. I think with the half shafts, it would be good to load-up w/penetrating oil (Prolong seems to be the best) and then have somebody hold presure on the Allen bolt and have somebody else smack the side of the nut with a hammer and a drift punch. The tap seems to push these stubborn fasteners over the edge. | ||
| Paul Jeffery (Peajay)
New member Username: Peajay Post Number: 14 Registered: 4-2002 |
The best way to free a bolt using heat is to apply heat to the head of the bolt, NOT the nut. In most cases the seizure surface is the contact face of the nut with the clamped material, NOT the threads of the nut and bolt. By heating the bolt head the heat runs up the bolt and expands the length which causes it to unload off from the seized surface. The force that can be gained by this thermal expansion is very large. It really does work. | ||
| JRV (Jrvall)
Intermediate Member Username: Jrvall Post Number: 1083 Registered: 11-2002 |
I have 1/2" 8mm Snap-On, but I was trying to save you time and $$money. Get a 1/2" Long Handled Ratchet with Flex head and the 3/8" sockets and the reducer if neccesary. It is very easy to hurt oneself, possbly seriously using the wrong tools on a job like this. I wouldn't use heat myself, except as a last resort, I use a technique of 'Reverse Torque' over brute force that I prefer to prevent damage and injury. Once the tool is in place and everything locked and imovable, the tool is "loaded" in the off position, by this I mean all slack is carefiully taken out with pressure, then I pull until everything flexes, then at this flex point I pull steadily flexing and unflexing with pressure, not force, this creates ultra-sonic vibration from your hands, through the tool handle and then through the bolt that aids and then overcomes the torque being applied by the nut...it's a Technique I akin to mind over matter, and prevents the stripping out of the internal corners that happens when brute force is used. A little practice you'll be amazed how well Martial Arts thinking & Techniques work. | ||
| Henryk (Henryk)
Member Username: Henryk Post Number: 528 Registered: 8-2001 |
Tom: I removed half-shafts on Ferraris several times, recently on my TR.......same thing as on the 328. The 8 mm Allen head was on a 3/8 inch socket. Use a 1/2 inch breaker bar, with a 1/2 inch to 3/8 inch reducing head, going to the 3/8 inch socket. Spray a lot of penetrant on it first, and wait a while, before loosening. I see NO use for a torch. The heat will only expand the bolt. These are long bolts, and you probably won't get the heat all the way thru the bolt. I often use a torch (acetylene/oxygen) to loosen up a NUT (to expand it), but NOT on a bolt. | ||
| Tom Francis (Tfrancis)
New member Username: Tfrancis Post Number: 14 Registered: 5-2002 |
JRV... I went to Sears but they don't sell 8mm hex bit sockets for 1/2" ratchets. Let me know if you find them. Ric.. I'll look for a torch tomorrow. What type do you own? | ||
| JRV (Jrvall)
Intermediate Member Username: Jrvall Post Number: 1082 Registered: 11-2002 |
Oh man..by all means go to Sears and get 1/2" tools, Long Ratchet and a short & medium lenght 8mm socket. You'll kill yourself with sissy tools on a He-mans job. | ||
| Ric Rainbolt (Ricrain)
Member Username: Ricrain Post Number: 506 Registered: 2-2002 |
Heat.  A heat gun works, but is slow. A torch is better. Not to cut the nut off, but if you heat the nut/bolt enough, it breaks the galvanic bond at the interface. If all else fails, a die grinder or dremel is a last resort. | ||
| Tom Francis (Tfrancis)
New member Username: Tfrancis Post Number: 13 Registered: 5-2002 |
I'm having a very hard time removing the half shafts. Seems that the 8mm hex bolts are secured with a nut with flanges that lock onto the threads. Just to break one of these bolts it took two guys with a breaker bar and all the force we could muster. We ended up twisting the 3/8" hex socket (I couldn't find a 1/2"). Is this normal? Is there a better way to remove them? I'm considering taking a dremel and cutting the nut off the bolt. |