| Author | Message | ||
| JohnR. (Rivee)
Junior Member Username: Rivee Post Number: 163 Registered: 1-2002 |
DJ, no I can't. When I hit "Upload Attch..." nothing happens | ||
| DJParks (Djparks)
Junior Member Username: Djparks Post Number: 54 Registered: 2-2003 |
I think I'll try the shaved 1/4" socket with a wobbly next, just for fun. Then maybe I'll try the nut runner like Hans. Running stacks with screens and 'baby' socks sounds like something for the track but would definately catch an eye on the street like Paul's IDF Webers with those BIG stacks. COOL! | ||
| BLUE308 (Davidlewis)
Junior Member Username: Davidlewis Post Number: 53 Registered: 2-2002 |
Hans' idea to lift the V-stacks works well to prevent the 8mm socket interfering/jamming, but I found that an 8mm deep socket, engaged at a slight angle, also works very well and doesn't jam. I marvel at how beautiful those stacks are and wish I could run them exposed! | ||
| DJParks (Djparks)
Junior Member Username: Djparks Post Number: 51 Registered: 2-2003 |
I agree about using the Nyloks. In those cases where I haven't I used the blue Locktight in conjuction with a star washer. Han's style of turn and lift is how I got the outboard,FWD and aft nuts off this last time but only on those. The rest I used the gear wrench, seemed easier than jumping around one to another. Thanks, DJ | ||
| Hans E. Hansen (4re_gt4)
Member Username: 4re_gt4 Post Number: 938 Registered: 4-2002 |
What's wrong with a plain old nut driver? I can spin one of those much faster than I can a rachet. Simple, cheap, fast. I don't understand why anyone would want to get more complicated. (BTW, if the 8mm socket is interfering/jamming as DJParks mentioned, the secret is to just do several turns on each nut. Then the air horns will lift up a bit and allow full removal of the nuts.) | ||
| '75 308 GT4 (Peter)
Advanced Member Username: Peter Post Number: 2572 Registered: 12-2000 |
DJ, I'd really recommend you continue to use Nylock nuts for these horns (and at best, new ones each time when installing, as the nylon insert deforms to lock to the threads, but once removed, will not afterwards). You don't want the carbs to swallow a stray nut that fell off from vibration (highly unlikely, but happened to a friend's Datsun racecar...  )! If not Nylocks, a plain nut with a lock washer will suffice, or old-school tech of a dab of lacquer paint on the nut and exposed threads, or Loctite, or... | ||
| DJParks (Djparks)
New member Username: Djparks Post Number: 46 Registered: 2-2003 |
JRV, Thanks for the tip. I really appreciate the exchange of information on this site. It makes working on these cars much more rewarding. Time to invest in more tools (never ending). Thanks, DJ | ||
| DJParks (Djparks)
New member Username: Djparks Post Number: 45 Registered: 2-2003 |
Rivee, Couldn't get your /POPJPEG/ to work. DJ | ||
| JRV (Jrvall)
Intermediate Member Username: Jrvall Post Number: 1100 Registered: 11-2002 |
>> ended up with the socket jammed under the stack flange<< grind the socket down on the ratchet side about 1/4" or so leaving enough square for the extension to catch...once loose use a short wobbly extension... but I still find my 8mm custom bent wrench and the right attitude work as well as all the tricks. | ||
| JohnR. (Rivee)
Junior Member Username: Rivee Post Number: 162 Registered: 1-2002 |
\popjpeg\ | ||
| DJParks (Djparks)
New member Username: Djparks Post Number: 44 Registered: 2-2003 |
Peter, Now that you mention those 'outside corner nuts' I don't recall how I got those off. I bent the shank right at the gear housing itself which may have afforded the room I needed. Starting to think this would be easier without the Nylok nuts so I can spin them on by hand and use the socket to tighten. | ||
| DJParks (Djparks)
New member Username: Djparks Post Number: 43 Registered: 2-2003 |
Hi Paul, I tried the 1/4" drive ratchet first but ended up with the socket jammed under the stack flange before I could get the nuts loose enough to spin off by hand. They are Nylok nuts. Are you using different nuts or a special style socket? Thanks, DJ | ||
| '75 308 GT4 (Peter)
Advanced Member Username: Peter Post Number: 2571 Registered: 12-2000 |
Canadian Tire's "Gear Wrenches" (I believe they're also sold under Sears Craftsman as well) work great too. Exception is they don't with the outside corner nuts, as there's little room between the horns and the box for the wrench sweep. It cuts down time nonetheless when used on the rest... | ||
| Paul Newman (Newman)
Intermediate Member Username: Newman Post Number: 1151 Registered: 12-2001 |
I use a 1/4" ratchet, extension and a 8mm socket. The front nuts on the front 2 carbs I access from ahead of the open decklid and the others from under the lid. So far its worked for me, Ive had the thing off so many times. | ||
| DJParks (Djparks)
New member Username: Djparks Post Number: 42 Registered: 2-2003 |
I remember seeing a thread on the different socket and wrench combinations used to remove the velocity stacks from carbed 308's. I found an 8 mm box end wrench at the hardware store that had a ratchet feature at the box end. I bent that end 90 degrees and cut the handle down so approximately 3/4" protruded above the stack. I operate the box wrench with a miniature 'crescent' wrench (adjustable spanner for you Brits) attached to the handle stub sticking above the stack. To reinstall the nuts I use another 8 mm wrench of the same type but bent the opposite direction for the required ratchet direction. Crude but efficient. DJ |