| Author |
Message |
mike 308 (Concorde)
Junior Member
Username: Concorde
Post Number: 136
Registered: 8-2002
| | Posted on Friday, March 14, 2003 - 10:16 am: | |
Steve, yes. |
DJParks (Djparks)
Junior Member
Username: Djparks
Post Number: 71
Registered: 2-2003
| | Posted on Friday, March 14, 2003 - 9:45 am: | |
My '78 308 does not have any exposed cables with the spare in or disconnects hence the 'Big Switch'
DJ |
DJParks (Djparks)
Junior Member
Username: Djparks
Post Number: 70
Registered: 2-2003
| | Posted on Friday, March 14, 2003 - 9:42 am: | |
Barney, Email me at home and I will load some shots there. I can't seem to get pics to load on this site yet.
P.S. For those unaware of the shut off it becomes a level of theft deterent as well as a way to stop alot of the battery drain during periods of storage ( without removing the spare). DJ |
Steve Magnusson (91tr)
Intermediate Member
Username: 91tr
Post Number: 1517
Registered: 1-2001
| | Posted on Friday, March 14, 2003 - 8:58 am: | |
There was no battery quick disconnect (either in the cables or via a separately mounted switch) on my ex-'78 308GTS IIRC.
mike 308 -- Is the "sliding coupler" on your 308QV also in the short negative cable like Barney's '81 i? |
mike 308 (Concorde)
Junior Member
Username: Concorde
Post Number: 135
Registered: 8-2002
| | Posted on Friday, March 14, 2003 - 8:31 am: | |
On the 308QV, you don't have to remove the spare to kill the battery. The cable that is exposed has a sliding "coupler" on it. Do earlier 308's not have this? |
Barney Guzzo (Trinacria)
Junior Member
Username: Trinacria
Post Number: 162
Registered: 8-2002
| | Posted on Thursday, March 13, 2003 - 11:35 pm: | |
DJParks,
Do you have a picture of it. I would specifically like to see how you put it through the fire wall and the T handle. |
DJParks (Djparks)
Junior Member
Username: Djparks
Post Number: 66
Registered: 2-2003
| | Posted on Thursday, March 13, 2003 - 11:50 am: | |
I installed a Battery Master cutoff switch next to the battery when I replaced the negative cable on my 308. Operated from inside the car via push-pull rod/T-handle mounted through firewall. The switch is rated at 250 amps continous and 2500 amps surge. Handy when working on electrical. I don't have to take out the spare to kill the battery.
Flaming River Big Switch and lever kit #FR0003 if I remember correctly. The switch should last the life of the car.
DJ |
Barney Guzzo (Trinacria)
Junior Member
Username: Trinacria
Post Number: 153
Registered: 8-2002
| | Posted on Tuesday, March 11, 2003 - 11:37 pm: | |
Steve,
After reading your post - wow, thats about $250 for a battery cable. I hack sawed the lead end off exposing the copper. It was worth a shot. I cut it in the direction of the cable because the length of the cable was already a tight fit and my father didnt think it was a good idea to shorten the cable if possible. We went to Aid Auto and bought a brass terminal & installed it so we could keep the manual disconnect. So far so good. Such a small item took a long time to fix. I will drive the car tomorrow and check the voltage again. Thanks for your help. |
Steve Magnusson (91tr)
Intermediate Member
Username: 91tr
Post Number: 1506
Registered: 1-2001
| | Posted on Tuesday, March 11, 2003 - 4:43 pm: | |
Barney -- my mistake -- I didn't realize that 2-valve 308i actually has a two-piece negative cable with an intermediate manual disconnect. The (single-piece) "replacement" cable I was thinking of would replace both pieces of your existing negative cable (i.e., it would have the battery terminal on one end and the screw eye end at the other to go directly from the battery to the chassis). If you want to keep the stock 2-piece set-up you might want to try the repair method (the two pieces are shown as 75 pounds and 44 pounds on the FerrariUK site -- eek!)
If you can trust your voltmeter, 12.0V is a little lowish -- the quoted number I've run across for the fully-charged, no-load condition is 12.6V; however, if your negative post hasn't had the greatest connection this might be limiting it's charge state (and check the liquid level in the cells -- even if it says it's a "no maintenance" battery). If your battery is relatively fresh you could make the repair and see if the no-load voltage improves with time/use; if it's 4~5~6 years old I think you could just replace it without regrets.
|
Barney Guzzo (Trinacria)
Junior Member
Username: Trinacria
Post Number: 151
Registered: 8-2002
| | Posted on Tuesday, March 11, 2003 - 3:51 pm: | |
While I was at it, I measured the voltage at the battery with the cables off. 11.95 volts. Is this ok? I have read it should be close to 13. |
Barney Guzzo (Trinacria)
Junior Member
Username: Trinacria
Post Number: 150
Registered: 8-2002
| | Posted on Tuesday, March 11, 2003 - 3:44 pm: | |
Ok, cable is out. How do i get the red coupling off the end? |
Barney Guzzo (Trinacria)
Junior Member
Username: Trinacria
Post Number: 149
Registered: 8-2002
| | Posted on Tuesday, March 11, 2003 - 2:42 pm: | |
Thanks Steve! Yes it is squeeze ring type. I will take a look again right now and see if it worth removing material or just replacing. |
Steve Magnusson (91tr)
Intermediate Member
Username: 91tr
Post Number: 1505
Registered: 1-2001
| | Posted on Tuesday, March 11, 2003 - 2:37 pm: | |
Barney -- If you're talking about the "squeeze ring"-type connection at the negative battery post, the usual fix is to remove the female (ring) end of the battery cable from the battery post, completely remove the clamping screw/nut, and then physically remove some material from the internal faces of the slot so that the ring can be clamped further shut (rather than trying to add something to build-up the male battery post diameter). Alternatively, IIRC the negative 308 cable isn't anything too long and/or exotic so you could just buy/install a complete replacement cable (especially if your existing negative female ring end isn't in the greatest shape). |
Barney Guzzo (Trinacria)
Junior Member
Username: Trinacria
Post Number: 148
Registered: 8-2002
| | Posted on Tuesday, March 11, 2003 - 2:25 pm: | |
The ground battery connection is loose. This could be the cause of a few gremlins in my car. The problem is that the cable end is completely tightened down. What (if any) can I use as a spacer betweenn the cable end and the battery post? |