| Author |
Message |
Rob Schermerhorn (Rexrcr)
Member
Username: Rexrcr
Post Number: 361
Registered: 11-2002
| | Posted on Wednesday, March 12, 2003 - 8:58 am: | |
I don't have schematics for all cars. This is FYI for those who have the time, knowledge and equipment to use this data.
Sorry I can't be more specific for your installation. This may only apply to Motronic 2.5 and later cars, though the logic is the same for all.
Look at your schematic for the lead most likely to have variable output, and/or test as the car warms up from cold start to find the lead you need. |
Bill White (Nc_newbie)
New member
Username: Nc_newbie
Post Number: 34
Registered: 2-2003
| | Posted on Wednesday, March 12, 2003 - 7:51 am: | |
Rob,
I don't understand your post. The Thermocouple ECU on my Mondial 3.2 has 4 wires on it beside the Thermocouple connection. Black - ground, red - 12V, blue/blk stripe - 12V, orange/yellow stripe output. The output on mine seems to be either 0 or 12V? The Slowdown light turns on and off with voltage applied to the orange/yellow wire? |
Rob Schermerhorn (Rexrcr)
Member
Username: Rexrcr
Post Number: 358
Registered: 11-2002
| | Posted on Wednesday, March 12, 2003 - 6:34 am: | |
Thermocouple ECU testing:
If you want to build your own test rig for our fallible thermocouple ECU's, here's a couple data points:
Output range is 0 - 5 volts
1 V = 300oC
4.5 V = 980oC +/- 20Co
Remember, the latest specification's potting material is perceptibly softer than previous generations, you can press your fingernail into it.
Add additional sensors before your cats (we all have extra parts laying around), cockpit display the voltage output and you get EGT's useful for tuning, especially for you guys pressurizing the intake manifold.
Have fun,
Rob |
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