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Jeff B. (Miltonian)
Junior Member
Username: Miltonian

Post Number: 180
Registered: 12-2002
Posted on Sunday, March 16, 2003 - 9:30 pm:   

Byron:

The "buzzing" sound MIGHT be the electrical servo operating the flap for the fresh air/recirculation system. It wouldn't be a bad idea to check to make sure it is working properly. On my 348, someone had apparently knocked the flap out of position and it wasn't "clocked" correctly on its shaft. Easy to fix. This is the flap that is visible in the picture posted below.
Paul Hill (348paul)
Junior Member
Username: 348paul

Post Number: 133
Registered: 12-2002
Posted on Sunday, March 16, 2003 - 3:24 pm:   

Byron.

The clutch should make a deep �tock� sound from the engine bay.

The condenser fan is situated at the front of the car - where the air duct is in the front spoiler � just put your hand in front of the opening and you will feel the flow of air when the fan is on.

This fan will kick in (via a relay) when the Tri switch on the Filter/dryer sees the �Medium Pressure�. The fan will turn off when the switch goes below the �Medium Pressure�.

The condenser fan should cut in and out quite regularly when idle � but when you are on the move there is a natural cooling of the condenser via the air duct.

As long as you are getting cooler air coming through and not the �Liquid nitrogen effect!� � You should be OK! � If you still experience this it would be the evaporator temperature sensor � or connectors/wiring to it!

Thanks

Paul
Byron (Bmyth)
Member
Username: Bmyth

Post Number: 446
Registered: 10-2002
Posted on Sunday, March 16, 2003 - 2:02 pm:   

"Just to double check � Close all the windows/doors/roof � Let the system run on A/C on �LO� temperature and on the lowest fan speed and make sure the condenser fan kicks in and out � The clutch will drop out when the evaporator temperature sensor gets too low � you will then hear the clutch kick in again when the sensor gives the OK to the ECU."

Paul, you are such the master. The condensor fan kicks in when I turn on the AC to LO. There is a very slight buzzing sound that turns off after about 30 sec - is this the clutch sound? It doesn't kick back in though. Am I not waiting long enough?

Either way, I think all is well, though. The temp settings seem to work fine. The AC works and the Fan speeds work. I can't thank you enough for the help. Saved me a few dollars, I believe.
Paul Hill (348paul)
Junior Member
Username: 348paul

Post Number: 132
Registered: 12-2002
Posted on Sunday, March 16, 2003 - 1:42 pm:   

Byron,

Glad it all worked out OK! - I have learnt to treat any connector on a Ferrari as guilty till proved innocent!! And even then a re-trial in not out of the question!

This was an interesting one as the ECU was feeding the 12v to the A/C clutch/relay continuously. Even the evaporator temperature sensor did not make any difference - hence the "liquid nitrogen effect!"

Just to double check � Close all the windows/doors/roof � Let the system run on A/C on �LO� temperature and on the lowest fan speed and make sure the condenser fan kicks in and out � The clutch will drop out when the evaporator temperature sensor gets too low � you will then hear the clutch kick in again when the sensor gives the OK to the ECU.


Glad to be of help

Paul
Byron (Bmyth)
Member
Username: Bmyth

Post Number: 444
Registered: 10-2002
Posted on Sunday, March 16, 2003 - 1:06 pm:   

PROBLEM SOLVED!!!

Thanks for all of your help, Paul! Tom, Matt, and Carl... thanks for the input!

I took apart the console and unplugged the climate control ECU and used electronic cleaner to clean the connectors. In addition, I checked and cleaned my 30amp AC Clutch fuse. While I was at it, I cleaned my console, cleaned other fuses, and took apart and cleaned my window and door lock switches.

All is well. The display has a soothing flash of 0:00... and all of the AC/heat/blower controls work. All I need to do is set the time now.

Phew!

Byron
Paul Hill (348paul)
Junior Member
Username: 348paul

Post Number: 130
Registered: 12-2002
Posted on Sunday, March 16, 2003 - 11:35 am:   

Billybob,

You know what the inside of that ECU is like, - Not sure what connectors they use between the boards but its amazing what a clean up on the pins can do - A friend of mine also has a 348 and kept intermittently getting the E8 alarm come up - and the displays were all dim. - When I took his one apart - I used the jewellers loupe to try and find any dry joints but could not find any! � After just doing my one I did not fancy sweating all the joints on this one, so I just cleaned all the pins up that connect all the boards up together to see if it improved - hey presto! - Still OK after 2 months and not a single error code and a much brighter display!

Damn Connectors!!!
Paul Hill (348paul)
Junior Member
Username: 348paul

Post Number: 129
Registered: 12-2002
Posted on Sunday, March 16, 2003 - 11:19 am:   

Byron,

Here is the picture of the 2 relays & Fuse (fuse to the very right of the circle) � The fuse usually sits on the connector of the R/H relay � The Relay on the Left in the one for the A/C Clutch.

This picture is taken from the Passenger side (LHD) � You need to remove the 4 screws that hold the rectangular plate for the fan unit & also part remove the weather seal from the top corner to be able to carefully pull back the cover.

�Paul, what ECU should I unplug and where is this ECU�

The Climate control ECU � This is actually what sits behind the buttons for the Climate control in the centre console.



Paul


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billy bob (Fatbillybob)
Junior Member
Username: Fatbillybob

Post Number: 231
Registered: 8-2002
Posted on Sunday, March 16, 2003 - 11:13 am:   

Don't screw with it. Let everything dry out and try it in a couple of days. Moral of the story is do not drive Ferraris in the rain. Ferrari has not figured out how to use Japanese connecotrs yet.
Byron (Bmyth)
Member
Username: Bmyth

Post Number: 441
Registered: 10-2002
Posted on Sunday, March 16, 2003 - 10:51 am:   

Paul, what ECU should I unplug and where is this ECU? I have the workshop manual but would require just a bit more information... thanks.
Paul Hill (348paul)
Junior Member
Username: 348paul

Post Number: 128
Registered: 12-2002
Posted on Sunday, March 16, 2003 - 10:46 am:   

Byron,

I will take a picture for reference, but if the LEDs were illuminated on the panel I would say that the 30 amp fuse is OK - but worth a check!

I would just try disconnecting the lead on the back of the ECU - leave it for 1 min then plug it back in.

Are there any error codes on the display? - Does the display say anything at all?

On the filter dryer - was just trying to see if the A/C was actually working or not. - Just to narrow it down a bit.

Paul
Byron (Bmyth)
Member
Username: Bmyth

Post Number: 440
Registered: 10-2002
Posted on Sunday, March 16, 2003 - 10:08 am:   

Thanks for the tips, guys.

Tom, which side is this reset switch? Yes, the battery ground had a bad connection and was reset.

Paul, the compressor does sound like it is kicking in. As Matt mentioned, the time says 88:88 and all the leds are illuminated on the control panel, but does not respond at all to pressing them.

"Have a look at the sight glass on the filter dryer - what do you see? - Carefully touch the pipes going to the Filter/dryer unit are they hot/cold?" <-- Can you possibly provide a bit more explanation on this one?

Paul, please post a picture of where to find the 30-amp relay. I don't want to be pi55ing in the wind!! :-)

"If the ECU is not functioning It can not turn the a/c clutch off if the evaporator temperature gets too low - there is a sensor placed inside the evaporator that gives feedback to the ECU when the temperature hits about 3 degrees Centigrade - Maybe what Byron was seeing was the air almost at freezing point - moisture in the air etc"

I think this is what I am seeing!....it looks like someone just opened up a can of liquid nitrogen and let it flow out from behind my dash... really bizarre.

Ok... going to search for the switch/reset button behind my console first. Will wait for pictures to find 30-amp relay.

thanks,
Byron
Paul Hill (348paul)
Junior Member
Username: 348paul

Post Number: 127
Registered: 12-2002
Posted on Sunday, March 16, 2003 - 9:30 am:   

Thinking even deeper!

If the ECU is not functioning It can not turn the a/c clutch off if the evaporator temperature gets too low - there is a sensor placed inside the evaporator that gives feedback to the ECU when the temperature hits about 3 degrees Centigrade - Maybe what Byron was seeing was the air almost at freezing point - moisture in the air etc.

Paul
Paul Hill (348paul)
Junior Member
Username: 348paul

Post Number: 126
Registered: 12-2002
Posted on Sunday, March 16, 2003 - 9:13 am:   

The alarm bells are ringing actually, because the unit is dead, the 30 amp fuse is normally the culprit - this sits next to the A/C Clutch relay - - Could be the area he needs to look at.

If you/he need a pic - just say and I will take one - and post on here as unless you know where they are, its like pi55ing in the wind!

Paul
Paul Hill (348paul)
Junior Member
Username: 348paul

Post Number: 125
Registered: 12-2002
Posted on Sunday, March 16, 2003 - 9:08 am:   

Matt,

The AC clutch gets the 12 volts from the ECU via a relay in the front boot - where the elusive 30-amp fuse is. I would suggest totally disconnecting the ECU ,and then start the car - If the Clutch still kicks in, I would have thought that the A/C Clutch Relay is stuck closed circuit.

Paul
"The Don" (Mlemus)
Advanced Member
Username: Mlemus

Post Number: 3115
Registered: 8-2002
Posted on Sunday, March 16, 2003 - 8:57 am:   

Paul,

His controls on the unit did not work at all. Air or clock.

The compressor did click on.

Matt
Paul Hill (348paul)
Junior Member
Username: 348paul

Post Number: 124
Registered: 12-2002
Posted on Sunday, March 16, 2003 - 8:52 am:   

Byron,

You say the a/c unit is not responding - do you mean the Control panel is not responding? Is there any life on the panel? - I am not familiar with a reset button, but on mine, I used to take the connector off the back and push it back in. That used to solve most problems!

What is strange is that you say that very cold air is blowing out - Can you hear the compressor clutch kicking in? - Have a look at the sight glass on the filter dryer - what do you see? - Carefully touch the pipes going to the Filter/dryer unit are they hot/cold? - All with the engine running of course.


Any more info would be helpfull.


Paul
"The Don" (Mlemus)
Advanced Member
Username: Mlemus

Post Number: 3111
Registered: 8-2002
Posted on Sunday, March 16, 2003 - 8:39 am:   

Tom,

Would that reset the clock as well? In addition to the Air not working, His clock read "88:88" on the display.

Matt
Tom Lassen (Nzo4re)
New member
Username: Nzo4re

Post Number: 12
Registered: 3-2003
Posted on Sunday, March 16, 2003 - 5:08 am:   

Byron,

Did you disconnect the battery? It sounds like the climate control computer is hosed. There's reset switch behind the control panel. You can lift out the panel where it meets the shifter, and it will pivot up. Get your hand behind the panel and feel around for the reset button.
Byron (Bmyth)
Member
Username: Bmyth

Post Number: 438
Registered: 10-2002
Posted on Sunday, March 16, 2003 - 12:47 am:   

Left my car in the rain today and ran into some electrical problems... Couldn't get the car to turn over and start up.

By cleaning off the connections on the distributor with electrical cleaner spray and towel drying it, we got the car to start.

However, the AC unit is still not responding. (All other electrical switches, etc are fully functional) While I'm driving, I feel very cold air blowing out of my vents, and what looks like frion. However, the controls are all dead and I can't adjust anything.

Can somebody help me diagnose this problem and suggest a possible approach or solution? No AC control = no defrost or heat...It's nearly impossible to drive at night...argh!

Thanks!
Byron

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