| Author | Message | ||
| Low Kai Chin (Speeddemon)
|
Thanks Peter. I do not know the sizes, sure hope someone who does can let us know. Thanks again. | ||
| 1975 308 GT4 (Peter)
|
In the same instance as with Arnaldo, I only know what the 308 2-valve uses for shims. A catalogue that I got from the shop where I bought my valve-seat tool, has a complete listing of different size shims avaliable for different cars. If someone here can provide me 4-valve shim DIAMETERS (TR and/or 328/348/....), I'd be happy to look it up and cross-reference. With this sharing of shims between different makes, I'm sure 4-valve Ferrari engines use the same size amongst each other, from some other company. | ||
| kclow (Speeddemon)
|
Great job Peter. I second what Magoo said, compile these stuff that U are doing into a manual, I'm in the queue for one. Do U know if the shims are the same for a QV engine? If Fiat ones can also be used, it will sure save me a lot of hassle. Thanks. | ||
| 1975 308 GT4 (Peter)
|
I plan to stop by and show off at Brian Jessel when I do get my car finished (they were very keen on seeing my work). | ||
| Christian Kienle (Christiank)
|
Peter: My Mondial is at Brian Jessel right now, if you want to take a look at it. The TR will be in after that for the timing belts change. Hope to see you (and your car soon). Great job you are doing. Keep the spirits up!! Christian | ||
| Wang (Wang)
|
Wow Pete.... Thanks | ||
| 1975 308 GT4 (Peter)
|
Arnaldo, I don't know what diameter of shim is used in the TR so can't say. I knew Fiat shims would work because it was mentioned it would in Allen Bishop's book: "Ferrari Guide to Performance". In other Fiat books I have, they mention Volvo shims work in Fiat motors, so either/or will work in 308 2-valve motors. | ||
| Magoo (Magoo)
|
Peter, Let me be the first to congrat. you on your great pics, easy to follow instuctions and the professional way it was presented. You should take the time to make up a shop manual along with pics. You'd make a fortune. Magoo | ||
| Arnaldo Torres (Caribe)
|
Peter, How did you find out that the shims are the sames as in Fiats and Volvos. Do you know anything about the ones for a TR? Caribe. | ||
| Scott Gold (Scotttgold)
|
Great pictures man!! Thanks for the info, this is starting to look like a job I can handle now. | ||
| '75 308 GT4 (Peter)
|
Obviously, removing the A/C compressor (either by breaking open the lines = $$$, or just tying it up and away on one of the frame tubes), will give good working access. I'd recomend reading the procedures at these great sites: http://www.expensivecar.com http://home.att.net/~ferrari/index.htm I will add here some pictures of mine to associate with the descriptions on those sites (which don't have any or are poor in clarity). One or both will mention placing matchbook covers under the cam caps to lock down the cams. It sounds unbelievable, but it works! Cam timing mark:  Belts fitted first without the tensioner:  Loosen cam pulleys to acheive cam timing alignment. These bolts are on with 80ft-lbs, so use an impact remove.  Tensioner on, but tighten it down slack. This will help to determine where the pulley aligns with the holes. Once everything is lined up, loosen tensioner nut, REMOVE MATCHBOOK COVERS FROM UNDER THE CAM CAPS and rotate engine crank two, complete revolutions.  If cam timing is still off, loosen tensioner and pulleys and start again (if the notch on the cam is on the very edge of the notch on the cap, its still acceptable). Once acceptable, lock down tensioner nuts. Adjusting Valves: You'll need special tools, but I made my own (my valve depressor only would work with the engine out. The Ferrari tool has a much flatter curve and this is what I would make the next time J).  308 2-valve motors use 33mm valve shims. These are the same used in Fiats and Volvos. I got all of mine from the local Volvo dealer for a good price and they were all avaliable. The depressor is inserted and the valve pushed down (only when that cylinder's cam lobe is pointing up perpendicularly from the shim)   After placing the hold-open tool on the very edge of the bucket, the pick pops out the shim by way of the notch on the bucket and the new one is replaced (obviously you know what to replace it with, because you checked the clearances before with a feeler gauge!)  After all of them have been changed, rotate crank and re-check clearances (they will be off by a thou or two, but that'll happen). | ||
| Mark C. Gordon (Markg)
|
Just had my 82 GTSi done at local shop, prior owner had it done 18 months ago but oil leak ruined one belt. I thought my car ran fine until they got done with it - turns out the cam timing was off by just 1 tooth, and valves had not been adjusted. Feels like a whole new car now! The lesson - make sure you get the cam timing exact! Good luck! | ||
| Frederick Thomas (Fred)
|
Wow 19 years on the cam belts! Yes I would say it is time. In fact I don't think I would drive it 27,001 miles if it were mine. | ||
| Scott Gold (Scotttgold)
|
Well, I've done just about everthing to my 82' 308 GTSi to get her running right, but now it's time to do the big one, yes, the cam belts and valves. It has 27,000 miles and still has the originals on there. Have any of you done this procedure yourselves? Please tell me what you paid for parts and any tips you might have. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Scott |