| Author |
Message |
Bill White (Nc_newbie)
New member
Username: Nc_newbie
Post Number: 48
Registered: 2-2003
| | Posted on Tuesday, March 25, 2003 - 7:07 am: | |
That's a good suggestion. There have been reports about a large voltage drop across the window switches. You may want to bypass the switch to "get it to move" by shorting the leads. Also by removing the air intake duct you may get enough access to the worm to turn it enough to get it to move if the motor is not burnt out. (30 minute job.) |
TomD (Tifosi)
Advanced Member
Username: Tifosi
Post Number: 3075
Registered: 9-2001
| | Posted on Tuesday, March 25, 2003 - 6:57 am: | |
before you do all that, pop the switch and clean it with electrical contact spray - that usually does the trick |
Bill White (Nc_newbie)
New member
Username: Nc_newbie
Post Number: 47
Registered: 2-2003
| | Posted on Tuesday, March 25, 2003 - 12:10 am: | |
I fixed my left rear window. Same situation. How ever mine was stuck and the motor was fine. To take it out is several hours because you have to go into it from the front of the rear wheel well. I know on the right rear you can get enough access to oil the track through the air duct in the side qtr pannel but to remove it you have to go through the wheel well. |
Michael McLaughlin (Speedrace)
New member
Username: Speedrace
Post Number: 4
Registered: 3-2003
| | Posted on Monday, March 24, 2003 - 11:23 pm: | |
Just got this car from California, where I think the PO never raised the top or the windows. So-- of course I checked things out and the right rear won't go back down (not even with a little persuasion--one hand on the glass--the other on the switch). How difficult is it to gain access to the motor to test for current and get the glass to retract? |