| Author |
Message |
Phil Good (Feelnotbad)
New member
Username: Feelnotbad
Post Number: 22
Registered: 1-2003
| | Posted on Thursday, March 27, 2003 - 8:33 am: | |
Thanks Rob, will try your method. |
Rob Schermerhorn (Rexrcr)
Member
Username: Rexrcr
Post Number: 425
Registered: 11-2002
| | Posted on Thursday, March 27, 2003 - 6:30 am: | |
In desperation, the pressure system is the only way to save it. I use a nitrogen cylinder with the regulator set to less than 10 psi. Use an air nozzel to pressurize the reservoir via the little vent hole in the fill cap. This is a two person job, no need to lift the car as long as you can reach the bleeder valve. Pressurize and hold, crack the bleed, close the bleed, rinse, repeat. Watch for brake fluid sqirting out of the fill cap, plenty of shop towels here.
Make certain that you use clear hose on the bleeder screw to see the air coming out and that the hose forms a "S" as you dump into a container. If you maintain the hose end higher than the bleed fitting, you need not worry about having the end submerged in fresh fluid in case you suck back into the system.
Worst-worst-worst I've had to bleed each junction starting at the master working back to the clutch like JRV suggests.
Find a Mac Tool dealer, or someone who sells AST automotive special tools, and buy their # TA 18. This is an aluminum cap that screws into the brake fluid reservoir perfectly with a rubber gasket and air line fitting in the top. It's made for AST's pressure bleader (I don't agree with large fluid reservoir bleeders), change the fitting to what you use and hook to the nitrogen tank. Much cleaner than the blow gun method.
Good luck,
Rob |
Phil Good (Feelnotbad)
New member
Username: Feelnotbad
Post Number: 21
Registered: 1-2003
| | Posted on Thursday, March 27, 2003 - 12:24 am: | |
Thanks Folks. I will have a second trial to dislodge the air bubble. I keep you posted. |
JRV (Jrvall)
Intermediate Member
Username: Jrvall
Post Number: 1188
Registered: 11-2002
| | Posted on Wednesday, March 26, 2003 - 10:36 pm: | |
Sometimes on real the real bear types (trapped air bubble) I crack the Bleeder Line on the Top of the Bell Housing, then pump once or twice, (instead of underneath at it's nipple), this lets the air out at it's highest point of the rear.
If all the bleeding fails, check the master cylinder to make sure it's goood. |
Byron (Bmyth)
Member
Username: Bmyth
Post Number: 473
Registered: 10-2002
| | Posted on Wednesday, March 26, 2003 - 8:35 pm: | |
Phil,
Just to add to everyone else's thoughts... did you add fluid as you were bleeding? The brake and clutch share the same reservoir, and as you're bleeding the system, you might have taken in some air, even though you filled up with brake fluid at the end. Try the pump method - make sure you fill as you go - and don't top off on the reservoir (It shouldn't be completely full). |
James J. McGee (Dr_ferrari)
Junior Member
Username: Dr_ferrari
Post Number: 64
Registered: 7-2002
| | Posted on Wednesday, March 26, 2003 - 7:41 pm: | |
Phil,
Sounds like you got an air bubble in the clutch master (very common).
You may try either a pressure bleeder or vacuum bleeder to try and dislodge the air from the master, or if you have neither, try pumping the pedal rapidly while someone else opens and closes the bleeder.the forced fluid if timed right with the bleeder opening will dislodge the air pocket. takes a little patience, but it will work. make sure the clutch fluid tank does not get low.
Good luck and regards, Jim |
Reiner Kaiser (Reinerkaiser)
Junior Member
Username: Reinerkaiser
Post Number: 68
Registered: 2-2001
| | Posted on Wednesday, March 26, 2003 - 6:47 pm: | |
Phil,
pls check the archives on this topic. Bleeding
a 348 clutch is quite involved and you need
to jack up the car to avoid air bubbles
forming... most likely you now have quite
a bit of air sucked into the clutch line!!
|
Steve Magnusson (91tr)
Intermediate Member
Username: 91tr
Post Number: 1559
Registered: 1-2001
| | Posted on Wednesday, March 26, 2003 - 5:34 pm: | |
If you pump the clutch pedal rapidly (which ain't easy to do since it probably doesn't return on it's own) does it ever seem to build pressure? |
Phil Good (Feelnotbad)
New member
Username: Feelnotbad
Post Number: 20
Registered: 1-2003
| | Posted on Wednesday, March 26, 2003 - 5:24 pm: | |
Steve, I am just using the pedal itself and I already cleaned the seat of the bleeder. I really do not understand. Fluid is coming out with no air bubbles... |
Steve Magnusson (91tr)
Intermediate Member
Username: 91tr
Post Number: 1558
Registered: 1-2001
| | Posted on Wednesday, March 26, 2003 - 5:15 pm: | |
Sorry to hear about your difficulty Phil. One thing to check is to completely remove the clutch bleed screw and make sure the end of the screw and the seat for the screw end are clean and relatively smooth -- i.e., it has a decent potential for good sealing when tightened (crude can fall down from the threads into the seat area) -- other than that, nothing to do but try rebleeding again (and maybe again)...Are you using a MityVac, a pressure bleeder, the pedal itself, or something else? |
Phil Good (Feelnotbad)
New member
Username: Feelnotbad
Post Number: 19
Registered: 1-2003
| | Posted on Wednesday, March 26, 2003 - 5:02 pm: | |
Folks, I am stuck. I just completed a brake bleeding without any problems. So far, so good. I then decided to bleed the clutch as well. Result: my clutch pedal is going straight to the floor when I depress it. The clutch does not work anymore! What did I wrong? Everything was fine with my clutch before I decided to bleed it. What a great idea I had! Thanks beforehand for any help. |