| Author | Message | ||
| Hans E. Hansen (4re_gt4)
Intermediate Member Username: 4re_gt4 Post Number: 1007 Registered: 4-2002 |
The basic system is just plain laughable. After an A/C system tune-up, I was getting 38deg at the vent. The problem is that it blows first on the windshield, then on your forehead, and if you have a GT4, onward to the backseat. Meanwhile, your torso is being baked in direct sunlight streaming in thru the steeply sloping windshield. Forehead is cool and calm. Armpits are soaking wet. Just roll down the windows and turn on the vent fan. | ||
| JRV (Jrvall)
Intermediate Member Username: Jrvall Post Number: 1198 Registered: 11-2002 |
>>Now if I could just figure out a way to get more airflow so the cold air could keep me cool! << Get under the dash and seal up the flex hose that goes from the evaporator to the lower vents...then seal up the two holes in the side of the vent tube itself...then only open one or two of the upper flaps...and make sure the lower vent thumbwheels are adjusted fully open. It won't be a hurricane but you should notice quite an improvement. | ||
| Paul Hill (348paul)
Junior Member Username: 348paul Post Number: 177 Registered: 12-2002 |
Jim, Easy one, Move the seat forward a few notches !!  Paul | ||
| Jim E (Jimpo1)
Intermediate Member Username: Jimpo1 Post Number: 1500 Registered: 7-2001 |
Now if I could just figure out a way to get more airflow so the cold air could keep me cool! Even when working, the AC sucks. | ||
| JRV (Jrvall)
Intermediate Member Username: Jrvall Post Number: 1197 Registered: 11-2002 |
>>I had to replace the seal on my 348 compressor only a couple of weeks ago. I was wondering is this quite a common problem? << It's not an uncommon problem, I see more hose problems on the 348's though. . The most common problems are a hose or hose end fitting, but the most common slow leaks can be schraeder valves as they rarely get replaced for some unknown reason. The way I run through a leaky system is to make a general overall evauluation of condition and age, insure the components are ok, evauate if needed, replace schraeder valves, check tightness of all the fittings, then refill with dyeglow and 3/4 full on freon and have the car run with AC on for about a week or so, then check for leaks with a blacklight, fix leaks detected (if any) the evac & recharge. With things in good operating condition a vent temp of about 42-48F degrees is normal. It might be possible for the DIY'rs to buy a single gauge unit to check the system pressures, if they're still around. They might have pulled the cheap testers off the market when licensing to use R-12 became law? | ||
| Tillman Strahan (Tillman)
Member Username: Tillman Post Number: 487 Registered: 11-2001 |
Thanks Steve for the tip. | ||
| Paul Hill (348paul)
Junior Member Username: 348paul Post Number: 175 Registered: 12-2002 |
JRV, I had to replace the seal on my 348 compressor only a couple of weeks ago. I was wondering is this quite a common problem? Thanks Paul | ||
| JRV (Jrvall)
Intermediate Member Username: Jrvall Post Number: 1195 Registered: 11-2002 |
>>I am assuming a leak as well....<< I see a lot of leaks..a whole lot..first step if the system is empty due to a leak (or anytime it's empty) is to replace the schraeder vales ($0.10ea.) in the compressor fittings..then recharge adding some zyglo dye to the system..drive with the AC on a few days and then search for leaks with the BlackLight..the tracer dye and light system is the best I've found for helping find leaks..even small ones. | ||
| Jim E (Jimpo1)
Intermediate Member Username: Jimpo1 Post Number: 1493 Registered: 7-2001 |
Must be in the air. I had my compressor replaced this time last year, no cold air today. It goes to see James on Wednesday. | ||
| david handa (Davehanda)
Member Username: Davehanda Post Number: 554 Registered: 5-2001 |
I have the same probelm (sigh). I had the car fully serviced in Sept. and it worked in December, but now, won't blow cold. I am assuming a leak as well.... | ||
| Steve Magnusson (91tr)
Intermediate Member Username: 91tr Post Number: 1565 Registered: 1-2001 |
If you have a voltmeter, but don't have a set of AC pressure gauges you might be able to deduce some infomation by measuring the voltages on the high-low pressure switch(es) which is/are usually also near the dryer (its/their location should be shown in the OM -- on some models there are separate high and low pressure switches and others have a combined high-low pressure switch): When the AC is "off" all the wires at the high-low pressure switch(es), regardless of a separate switches or a combined switch layout, should be ~0 volts. When the AC is "on" at least 1 wire should go +12V which would indicate the upstream electronics are healthy and are trying to turn the compressor clutch on. If no wire(s) at the high-low pressure switch(es) go +12V with the AC "on" then you've got an upstream electrical issue. If you do detect the +12V on one of the leads at the high-low pressure switch with the AC "on", but the lead at the compressor clutch itself doesn't also go +12V then either the refigerant pressure level is out-of-bounds (i.e., probably low/no refrigerant) or the high-low pressure switch is bad. Anyway, just wanted to suggest these voltage measurements also since they're easier to make than the actual pressure measurements IMO. | ||
| Tillman Strahan (Tillman)
Member Username: Tillman Post Number: 481 Registered: 11-2001 |
I tested it and it worked when I bought it, but I haven't had it on since then. Thanks for the suggest JRV, I'll poke around on it and see what I find. | ||
| JRV (Jrvall)
Intermediate Member Username: Jrvall Post Number: 1193 Registered: 11-2002 |
First you can turn the AC on and look into the sight glass on the Dryer in the front to see if there are bubbles...if you seelots of bubbles it's low on freon. Then hook up a gauge set in the back on the compresor and check the system High & Low pressures...depending on outside Temp you should see about 35 Low Side--175-225 High Side. | ||
| Rob Lay (Rob328gts)
Board Administrator Username: Rob328gts Post Number: 4153 Registered: 12-2000 |
Prob need a recharge and don't go through the same mistake I made of paying $200+ per recharge and having it just leak out every 1-2 months. Pay the $200 to get the compressor replaced (GM part) and then get the recharge. I had a bad leak in mine. Has yours ever worked? You might get the history from Dan. | ||
| Tillman Strahan (Tillman)
Member Username: Tillman Post Number: 478 Registered: 11-2001 |
I'm sure this has been discussed in a thread, but the search pulls up about a billion hits not related to the question... The AC is not blowing cold at the vents. I am getting airflow so the fan is fine, belts are good, but it's just not cold at all. Where do I start troubleshooting? Is it just likely to need a recharge? It does have the Nipendenso compressor mod. |