| Author |
Message |
Philip Airey (Pma1010)
Junior Member
Username: Pma1010
Post Number: 190
Registered: 7-2002
| | Posted on Monday, March 31, 2003 - 1:13 pm: | |
Rob
The 308 may be different from the 328, but on the 308 you remove the two pins by tapping them out with a small drive and take the retaining spring out. Front pads should just pull out. Rears have two additional clips holding the pins in place.
I had my brake failure light come on several times and eventually stay on. On the 308 there is a "junction box" or fluid distribution point in the chassis area just aft of the steering. They can go bad or just experience a poor ground. I had to replace mine - about $200 as I recall.
HTH |
Lawrence Coppari (Lawrence)
Member
Username: Lawrence
Post Number: 550
Registered: 4-2002
| | Posted on Monday, March 31, 2003 - 12:32 pm: | |
Just two bolts as I recall. Check to see if they have Loctite on them. MB uses Loctite. Can't recall whether F has it or not. Get torque correct. |
Rob Lay (Rob328gts)
Board Administrator
Username: Rob328gts
Post Number: 4207
Registered: 12-2000
| | Posted on Monday, March 31, 2003 - 12:17 pm: | |
Ok thanks, that's my answer then, not too dificult to remove entire caliper, just making sure I wasn't doing it harder than I had to. |
Marq J Ruben (Qferrari)
Member
Username: Qferrari
Post Number: 277
Registered: 2-2002
| | Posted on Monday, March 31, 2003 - 11:57 am: | |
Switched to Porterfield pads last Spring. Removed the caliper to swap pads.
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Lawrence Coppari (Lawrence)
Member
Username: Lawrence
Post Number: 549
Registered: 4-2002
| | Posted on Monday, March 31, 2003 - 11:42 am: | |
I've changed mine but it was years ago when I was tracking the car.... I removed the entire caliper to get the pads out. The caliper floats, I believe.
The calipers have spacers or is it the rears that have the spacers. Just keep in mind that it may have spacers. |
Rob Lay (Rob328gts)
Board Administrator
Username: Rob328gts
Post Number: 4206
Registered: 12-2000
| | Posted on Monday, March 31, 2003 - 10:52 am: | |
I'm sure someone has changed front pads before? |
Rob Lay (Rob328gts)
Board Administrator
Username: Rob328gts
Post Number: 4205
Registered: 12-2000
| | Posted on Sunday, March 30, 2003 - 9:20 pm: | |
anyone know for sure? |
Steve Magnusson (91tr)
Intermediate Member
Username: 91tr
Post Number: 1583
Registered: 1-2001
| | Posted on Saturday, March 29, 2003 - 5:00 pm: | |
Judging by the 328 SPC illustration it sure looks like you need to remove the whole caliper first off the edge of the disc (i.e., it looks like at least 1 pad has the "fingers" that go into the piston itself)
Q1: Of course reinsulate/reroute/reposition the sensor wire as best you can! Feel free to "improve" as the original design obviously didn't work very well ;).
Q2: You'll need to drive the pistons/pads back enough to clear the ridging on the disc (I usually just crack the bleeders open and wiggle things back and forth to drive a little fluid out rather than trying to drive the fluid backwards with everything closed up.)
Q3 (mine): Is there only 1 brake piston per caliper? -- is it a 1 piston/floating caliper design? |
Rob Lay (Rob328gts)
Board Administrator
Username: Rob328gts
Post Number: 4195
Registered: 12-2000
| | Posted on Saturday, March 29, 2003 - 3:10 pm: | |
After a couple track days I started getting the "Brake Failure" light so I decided to take a closer look. The pads still have about 50% left, but it appears the brake sensor wire has rubbed through up from the brakes at the eye where the brake fluid line runs through. It appears my previous mechanic had tied down the brake sensor wire all along it's path, but there was still enough movement to rub it bare.
Question 1: Any suggestions to eliminate my brake sensor wire being activated because of these false rub situation vs. the actual pad level?
How about wrapping the wire with electrical tape where it goes through the eye? The soft cloth type covering for this wire is not very durable, maybe just electrical tape would add just enough protection.
Question 2: I'm having problems figuring out how to get to the pads. I've changed pads on my Mazda all the time and you just remove the bottom bolt and swing the top caliper piece up to have full access at the pads. I removed both of the 7mm hex bolts and the metal retainer on the front. The caliper has some movement, but it will not release to access the pads.
Do I need to release some brake fluid to remove pressure in the brake piston? What else do I need to do besides remove the two 7mm hex and the brace retainer?
Am I going about this wrong, do you not change the pads on a Ferrari 328 by lifting the caliper off the brace frame?
Thanks,
rob |