| Author |
Message |
Mitchell Minh Le (Yelcab1)
Junior Member
Username: Yelcab1
Post Number: 131
Registered: 11-2001
| | Posted on Saturday, April 20, 2002 - 12:32 pm: | |
OK
That is it. I am not removing the liners just to change the orings. Do not need more screw ups as I have plenty. I will (as Peter suggested) use a Flexhone to get a cross hatch pattern in the liners with it still in the engine. Hopefully I can find one locally.
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Steve Magnusson (91tr)
Member
Username: 91tr
Post Number: 684
Registered: 1-2001
| | Posted on Saturday, April 20, 2002 - 8:27 am: | |
Ric -- thanks for the clarification about the liner design change introduction. Didn't you have a set of the later liners "recoated" recently?
Bill/Greg -- there's no "smooth" as I believe the surface of the as-deposited Nikasil is controlled to give the appropriate microstructure for ring seating, but I do think it's a case of replace or recoat. |
Edward Gault (Irfgt)
Intermediate Member
Username: Irfgt
Post Number: 1152
Registered: 2-2001
| | Posted on Saturday, April 20, 2002 - 5:31 am: | |
Yes, I was told to never remove the things if you do not intend to replace them. I treated it as though it were any other engine. |
Bill Sebestyen (Bill308)
Junior Member
Username: Bill308
Post Number: 179
Registered: 5-2001
| | Posted on Friday, April 19, 2002 - 9:47 pm: | |
Did you leave the liners in the block for honing? |
Edward Gault (Irfgt)
Intermediate Member
Username: Irfgt
Post Number: 1151
Registered: 2-2001
| | Posted on Friday, April 19, 2002 - 9:46 pm: | |
I use WD-40. It cuts quicker than motor oil. Be sure to wash out the bores with soapy water afterwards and then rub the walls with an oily rag. |
Bill Sebestyen (Bill308)
Junior Member
Username: Bill308
Post Number: 178
Registered: 5-2001
| | Posted on Friday, April 19, 2002 - 9:26 pm: | |
Ed,
The object is to achieve a nice cross hatch pattern, right? Did you use a light weight engine oil for lube? |
Edward Gault (Irfgt)
Intermediate Member
Username: Irfgt
Post Number: 1148
Registered: 2-2001
| | Posted on Friday, April 19, 2002 - 9:17 pm: | |
I used a Mac Tools Regular fine stone glaze breaker hone with an electric drill. No Problem! |
Ric Rainbolt (Ricrain)
Junior Member
Username: Ricrain
Post Number: 56
Registered: 2-2002
| | Posted on Friday, April 19, 2002 - 7:38 pm: | |
Steve et al,
The Nikisal was introduced mid-production on the 4-valve engines. All 2-valve engines have "plain" liners.
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Bill Sebestyen (Bill308)
Junior Member
Username: Bill308
Post Number: 175
Registered: 5-2001
| | Posted on Friday, April 19, 2002 - 7:09 pm: | |
Steve,
How do the rings seat themselves on a smooth bore?
Are the liners just replaced if new rings are necessary?
Ed,
Whats the best way to hone the early liners, in the block? Flex hone? Automated equipment? |
Greg Rodgers (Joechristmas)
Junior Member
Username: Joechristmas
Post Number: 242
Registered: 3-2001
| | Posted on Friday, April 19, 2002 - 6:41 pm: | |
Steve for the QVs they don't need to be honed? Do you need to replace them when the engine is rebuilt or are they ok for life? |
Edward Gault (Irfgt)
Intermediate Member
Username: Irfgt
Post Number: 1145
Registered: 2-2001
| | Posted on Friday, April 19, 2002 - 6:38 pm: | |
My 82 308 had zero measurable wear in the cylinders and probably had over 100,000 miles on it {EBAY CAR}. I just honed the cylinders and replaced the rings and all is well. |
Steve Magnusson (91tr)
Member
Username: 91tr
Post Number: 682
Registered: 1-2001
| | Posted on Friday, April 19, 2002 - 5:24 pm: | |
cory -- "no honing" is for the later cars (2-valve "i"'s and after I think) with special (Nikasil) surface coatings. The liners on the carbed 308s like Mitchell's are just cast iron. |
cory mitchell (Mitch328)
New member
Username: Mitch328
Post Number: 22
Registered: 8-2001
| | Posted on Friday, April 19, 2002 - 5:05 pm: | |
I thought the cylinder liners could not be honed as it would ruin the hardened surface that is applied to the inside of the liner. I might take on this job next winter and it would save a lot of $$$ if I didn't have to buy new liners. I don't even know how much they cost for a set. Has anyone paid the price either way? |
Burnell P. Curtis (Burnell)
New member
Username: Burnell
Post Number: 3
Registered: 4-2002
| | Posted on Friday, April 19, 2002 - 10:47 am: | |
I'll bet this job is done by now. Anyway, I have done this many times, once with my 308 and many times with Alfas. Knock out the liners with wood. Have them honed by a professional. Clean the o ring surface on the block and on the cylinder VERY WELL. I use a dab of grease to hold the o ring in place. When inserting the cylinder, be sure the have the orientation correct. You do not want to twist it after it is seated. Height should be no problem if the engine never got hot and did not leak before. |
Steve Magnusson (91tr)
Member
Username: 91tr
Post Number: 660
Registered: 1-2001
| | Posted on Tuesday, April 09, 2002 - 8:04 pm: | |
Mitchell -- if your liners are/were OK, I wouldn't mess with them (other than ridge-reaming and honing) just to put in new o-rings (JMO). |
Mitchell Minh Le (Yelcab1)
Junior Member
Username: Yelcab1
Post Number: 115
Registered: 11-2001
| | Posted on Tuesday, April 09, 2002 - 6:12 pm: | |
Well
they were not leaking or anything, but since the orings came with the gasket kit, and I have the whole thing disassembled down to the crank shaft, I figure what the hell, I might as well do it.
I could just leave "sleeping dogs lie" too. |
Steve Magnusson (91tr)
Member
Username: 91tr
Post Number: 658
Registered: 1-2001
| | Posted on Tuesday, April 09, 2002 - 5:49 pm: | |
Mitchell -- I've not had the "priviledge" of tackling this project, but I would recommend that after you get the liners installed in the block that you invest in getting the water jacket pressure tested -- it would be a shame to invest all of the downstream labor/time only to find coolant in the crankcase when you start it up (I recall this happened to another unfortunate Lister/Chatter). You might try contacting Ric Rainbolt ([email protected]) for liner/block assembly advice. |
Mitchell Minh Le (Yelcab1)
Junior Member
Username: Yelcab1
Post Number: 114
Registered: 11-2001
| | Posted on Tuesday, April 09, 2002 - 5:32 pm: | |
I would like know how to replace the o-rings around the Cylinder liners? Specifically,\
1. How do I knock out the liners, with brass drift? or with wood dowels?
2. How to install the o-rings, dry? or with some kind of lub?
3. How to ensure perfect flatness of the liner and the block surface?
Any other hints?
Mitchell |