| Author |
Message |
Hans E. Hansen (4re_gt4)
Intermediate Member
Username: 4re_gt4
Post Number: 1019
Registered: 4-2002
| | Posted on Wednesday, April 02, 2003 - 12:30 am: | |
PS: It's my understanding that this is not *too* difficult on a GTB/S car. But if you have an old 'Dino'saur GT4, it is a MAJOR PAIN IN THE REAREND!! Reply back, if so. Someone (Jay? Peter? I can't remember off hand.) gave me the instructions, and I'll be more than happy to forward them, with proper credit to the genius that figured out how to remove a GT4 fusebox. |
Hans E. Hansen (4re_gt4)
Intermediate Member
Username: 4re_gt4
Post Number: 1018
Registered: 4-2002
| | Posted on Wednesday, April 02, 2003 - 12:20 am: | |
Yes, it's temporary unless you solder everything. But no need to replace it if you do a pre-emptive strike and pre-solder!
I had this on my short list of maintenance items, only to have a melt down before I got a 'round tuit'. Crap, as I wasted the $130 for the new 'box'. In my case, it was the fuse that runs the A/C and the blower motor for the heater. So I had no ventilation. Not the end of the world, but what next? The rivet on the lower fuse connection must have gotten corroded. It got hot and melted some of the plastic, causing the fuse to sag a little. With a fuse now not making good contact, there was some arcing on the upper contact, scorching it, and more heat on the lower contact further melting it. When I discovered it, the fuse was just kind of dangling there, loosely held in place by the upper and melted lower contact.
BTW, my old fuse box is repairable, if anyone is interested. |
Tommy Anastasiou (Tommya)
Junior Member
Username: Tommya
Post Number: 62
Registered: 10-2002
| | Posted on Tuesday, April 01, 2003 - 9:04 pm: | |
Hans,
This was part of my original question. Replacing the fuse box is it a temporary thing ??
According to your post I guess it is unless you solder everything. |
Hans E. Hansen (4re_gt4)
Intermediate Member
Username: 4re_gt4
Post Number: 1016
Registered: 4-2002
| | Posted on Tuesday, April 01, 2003 - 8:18 pm: | |
Re: the fusebox. The replacement ones that I have seen are identical to the one you will remove, and in time will have the same problem. One of mine melted, so I had to buy one. But I soldered both it and the other still-functioning one as well.
Solder everything. Rivets, gaps between components, everything. The proper heat soldering gun is essential, as a too small one will take a long time to heat the parts and you will get excessive melting of the plastic. |
Steven R. Rochlin (Enjoythemusic)
Member
Username: Enjoythemusic
Post Number: 303
Registered: 4-2002
| | Posted on Tuesday, April 01, 2003 - 12:48 pm: | |
Ok, have been over-thinking things but here it goes anyway. The Internet seemed to offer NO info about either glass or blade fuse being better so i decided to study each from an electrical/mechanical point of view and here is my feelings...
Both have their electrical elements is a relatively sealed environment and have about the same electrical contact area to the appropriate holder. The benefit of glass fuses is that they are easy to adjust the tightness of the fuse holder should it get loose. Another benefit of glass, the electrical ends are polished while blade uses are more raw/rough metal. Due to this rough (blade fuse) versus polished (glass fuse), the polished end of the glass fuse may resist corrosion to a higher extent than a blade fuse. As mentioned in a previous posting, glass fuses are easy to see if they are blown while a blade usually needs to be removed to verify status. So in the end the choice would be glass fuse in my book. Ok, enough thinking, time for driving :-)
Enjoy the Drive,
Steven R. Rochlin
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Steven R. Rochlin (Enjoythemusic)
Member
Username: Enjoythemusic
Post Number: 302
Registered: 4-2002
| | Posted on Tuesday, April 01, 2003 - 10:39 am: | |
Randall,
Not sure if there is a MECHANICAL/ELECTRICAL advantage of glass over blade fuses. Visually, it is MUCH EASIER to see if a glass fuse is blown.
Enjoy the Drive,
Steven R. Rochlin
|
Randall (Randall)
Junior Member
Username: Randall
Post Number: 233
Registered: 1-2003
| | Posted on Monday, March 31, 2003 - 11:40 pm: | |
I'm not sure entirely how the factory fuse box works. It's not like any other I've seen. Is the buss side on top? I looked at the blade type and glassy type aftermarket fuseboxes, but I can't find any that have one fuse supplying two loads. I think I prefer the blade type with the "smart" fuses, but is there an advantage to using one or the other? |
Tommy Anastasiou (Tommya)
Junior Member
Username: Tommya
Post Number: 51
Registered: 10-2002
| | Posted on Monday, March 31, 2003 - 9:32 pm: | |
THANK YOU Steve !!
I'm expecting an email.
Regards
Tommy A |
Steven R. Rochlin (Enjoythemusic)
Member
Username: Enjoythemusic
Post Number: 300
Registered: 4-2002
| | Posted on Monday, March 31, 2003 - 7:16 pm: | |
Tommy (and all),
Please see this thread:
http://www.ferrarichat.com/discus/messages/112/202907.html
Enjoy the Drive,
Steven R. Rochlin
|
Bill V (Doc)
Member
Username: Doc
Post Number: 269
Registered: 9-2001
| | Posted on Monday, March 31, 2003 - 7:07 pm: | |
When you say solder, do you mean to solder the rivets? |
"The Don" (Mlemus)
Advanced Member
Username: Mlemus
Post Number: 3381
Registered: 8-2002
| | Posted on Monday, March 31, 2003 - 6:01 pm: | |
you can change the block to an updated one and that fixes it for good or you can solder (sp?) the back of the old one
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Tommy Anastasiou (Tommya)
New member
Username: Tommya
Post Number: 50
Registered: 10-2002
| | Posted on Monday, March 31, 2003 - 5:59 pm: | |
Many times the problems with the electrical system & 308 fuse box were brought up but one issue is correcting the problem and a second finding the cause of the problem so that it doesn't happen again. I hear of replacing the fuse box. Is this an update or a temporary fix until you have to do it all over again ?? Are there any known things that we can correct with the wiring to prevent such failures. Any input will be greatly appreciated.
Tommy A |