| Author | Message | ||
| Hans E. Hansen (4re_gt4)
Intermediate Member Username: 4re_gt4 Post Number: 1112 Registered: 4-2002 |
So, what would the collective minds here suggest for the corners of the windshield? The GT4 has been known to rust in the bottom corners. I don't want to disassemble/remove weatherstripping. I'm looking for something that will penetrate under the gasket and coat the metal. WD-40 or some such oil/grease could harm the rubber, and rubber-safe silicon doesn't seem to penetrate/crawl like many of the petroleum products. Anything thick probably wouldn't work either. Ideas? | ||
| Verell Boaen (Verell)
Member Username: Verell Post Number: 640 Registered: 5-2001 |
Damn Hans, If I'd thought of that, I'd have gone for a Daytona or at least a 400 series V12 front engined car...(Heheheh) The WD40 isn't a bad idea. Just renew it periodicly. Or maybe follow up with a coat of LPS3 to seal the seam. | ||
| Hans E. Hansen (4re_gt4)
Intermediate Member Username: 4re_gt4 Post Number: 1097 Registered: 4-2002 |
Verell: According to your theory, I should get a front engine Ferrari. The oil leaks will preserve the rest of the car. <jk> I sprayed WD40 into the seams in my doors. It's *supposed* to displace any moisture. Seemed to soak in well in the grit that I couldn't remove in the seams. We'll see. I'm definitely going to look into the products mentioned here. Thanks all. | ||
| Verell Boaen (Verell)
Member Username: Verell Post Number: 636 Registered: 5-2001 |
Hans, That's a tough question. I'm debating what to do with the bottom seams inside the door where the sound deadening from the door skin has flaked down into the seam. Luckily there are no obvious signs of rust. I think I'm going to vacuum & brush the seam out as best I can, then brush POR15 black into it & cross my fingers. The black POR15 is pretty fluid, & I'll thin the 1st 1-2 coats as recommended for spraying so that it's really fluid & can penetrate in & around what crud is left. Then a apply a couple of coats of unthinned to finish sealing the seam. (BTW, when you're sealing something up like the door seams, you want to make sure you're not sealing any moisture up inside the seam. My car has been sitting in a mostly heated garage since last Nov, so everything s/b as dry as a bone. As to a really dirty & unaccessable area, I'd probably find a way to spray it with 20w50 or even heavier oil, or LPS3 if I was sure I could get enough of it on to ensure it penetrated. I agree with motor oil doing a pretty darn good job. I've had several cars with the usual amount of oil on oil pans, etc. & they've held up to new england salt winters surprisingly well. My '87 Rx7 winter driver had seen 15 years of new england's salty roads when I replaced the engine a while ago The paint had pretty well peeled off of the front of the oil pan. The pan had a noticeable layer of rust, but there was no significant pitting. Wish I'd known about POR15 then, it'd have been a great application for it. A couple of body shops I know keep a garden sprayer of used crankcase oil around. After a rust removal job they spray the inside of the panels. They claim it really works, unlike the 'Rusty Jones' and similar treatments. | ||
| Hans E. Hansen (4re_gt4)
Intermediate Member Username: 4re_gt4 Post Number: 1083 Registered: 4-2002 |
Verell: What I'm wondering about is that there are lots of places that are difficult/impossible to get to, to do a reasonable job of pre-application cleaning. What about putting this (or other) stuff on a relatively dirty place, such as in a recess of a rocker panel? | ||
| DJParks (Djparks)
Junior Member Username: Djparks Post Number: 131 Registered: 2-2003 |
Heard about it too and completely spaced when the discussion came up. That will be the number one for me when I strip my car. Most of the applications I have seen for LPS and DINOL are for new assemblies as a preventative measure more than as a rust stopper after the fact. The best I have heard for rust 'in progress' is POR 15. My time will come I'm sure, DJ | ||
| Verell Boaen (Verell)
Member Username: Verell Post Number: 633 Registered: 5-2001 |
I'm surprised no one has mentioned POR15. It's a rust stopping/preventative finish that a lot of restorers swear by. It's for an unfinished but rusting surface (sound familiar). The area to be sealed is degreased, all loose rust is wire brushed off, then the rusted area & any bare metal is treated with a phosphate conversion etch. Lastly, several coats of the POR15 finish is brushed or sprayed on. See: www.por15.com A local classic car shop put me onto it. They clean out the inside of seams, then pour/brush it in. It wicks in and both seals the seams & stops all further rusting. The shop claims it's great for the seam at the bottom of doors. They haven't had a complaint about rust returning since they started using it. Also,It's been mentioned on the chat a few times. I'm using it on my rocker panel seams & also the door bottom seams. I've finished sealing everything up & am sanding it down prior to priming, etc. The stuff cures up very hard. I'm glad I've got an air panel sander, otherwise I'd be hand sanding for days. This is my 1st use of it,so I can't speak from direct experience. However, it sure shows up in a lot of places on the web. So far I'haven't come across anyone saying anything negative about it's doing the job. | ||
| DJParks (Djparks)
Junior Member Username: Djparks Post Number: 130 Registered: 2-2003 |
You can also try www.Dinitrol.com. We have used both the LPS products and the 'Dinol'. Many prefer the Dinol because it dries into a hard coating whereas the LPS remains waxy and can come off when abraded. Alot depends on where it is being applied and what it is being subjected to. I have seen LPS in NAPA I believe but not the Dinol. DJ | ||
| Tommy Anastasiou (Tommya)
Junior Member Username: Tommya Post Number: 77 Registered: 10-2002 |
Hans, If you have a problem finding LPS3 let me know and I will help. | ||
| James H. (Jamesh)
Junior Member Username: Jamesh Post Number: 178 Registered: 5-2001 |
Hans, go to googles.com and type in lps3 in the search engine. It will direct you to a site to purchase the product. Thanks Tommy for sharing the info on the product. James | ||
| Hans E. Hansen (4re_gt4)
Intermediate Member Username: 4re_gt4 Post Number: 1076 Registered: 4-2002 |
Details, Tommy, details. Who makes it, where do we get it? | ||
| Tommy Anastasiou (Tommya)
Junior Member Username: Tommya Post Number: 76 Registered: 10-2002 |
Paul, You might want to try LPS3. You will love it. It's a heavy duty rust inhibitor. The product offers over 500 hours of salt spray resistance. It leaves a waxy film rather than oily. I have used it on all my cars with great results. It will actually stop rust and corrosion. It's in a spray can. Expensive but worth it. | ||
| Mark (Markg)
Member Username: Markg Post Number: 434 Registered: 2-2001 |
My 308 has the factory self-perpetuating anti-rust system, to the tune of about a quart every 1500k or so..... | ||
| DJParks (Djparks)
Junior Member Username: Djparks Post Number: 121 Registered: 2-2003 |
We use DINITROL AV8 (DINOL) on our airplanes as a corrosion preventative. It is classified as a super penetrating, water displacing corrosion inhibitor for aircraft. It does nothing to convert the corrosion or rust process but will prevent it after the metal is treated with a conversion coating. Comes in an aerosol and stays where you spray it. Supposed to last the lifre of the airplane. DJ | ||
| Mike Dawson (Miked)
Junior Member Username: Miked Post Number: 85 Registered: 2-2001 |
I have been using a homebrew version of WAXOYL on several vehicles with apparent success. The "formula" is widely distributed in one form or another on just about every car enthusiast web site on the internet. Precise measurements are not necessary. I have found that it is much easier to mix up if heated slightly to about hot bath water temperature which dissolves the wax quickly and allows the mixture to be sprayed (at the mixing temp) with a common garden sprayer. I don't grind up the wax, I just drop the bars in the mineral spirits before heating. I use a hot plate, outdoors and away from anything flammable. Be forewarned, this stuff will drip out from under the car for days if not weeks especially if the car is parked in the hot sun. I extended my sprayer's hose to get way back into the rocker panels on my GT4. There was absolutely nothing on the metal in there, not even primer! Just before the winter hits I spray the underside of my winter beater and it really seems to help offset the salt corrosion especially to brake and fuel lines etc. From somewhere on the net: "Take a pound or so of parafin wax and grind it up with a cheese grater. Soak it in a half gallon of mineral spirits until all of the wax is dissolved. This might require allowing it to sit in a closed container for a couple of weeks. Stirring will cause most of the wax to dissolve, but soaking should take care of the rest. Generally try to dissolve as much wax as the mineral spirits will hold. After that, dump in a couple of pints of mineral oil ( less of a smell ) or non-detergent motor oil. If the mixture is thick, thin it further with more mineral spirits until it is of a sprayable consistency. Buy one of those cheap engine sprayers at the local auto or tool store that carrys air tools. It is a metal wand with an air fitting, a spray button and a rubber tube to dip in whatever you are spraying. Rent or borrow an air compressor. Safely elevate your car so that you can get at the underside. Spray the solution onto, and into every crevice, crack, hole, and surface you can get to. Then let the excess drip off. The beauty of it is that the stuff will soak into any rust spots. The rust seems to hold it like a sponge. It will also bleed into the smallest cracks and folds of the body and protect there, too. All you need to do is repeat this every year, and rusting should be greatly reduced." | ||
| Hans E. Hansen (4re_gt4)
Intermediate Member Username: 4re_gt4 Post Number: 1048 Registered: 4-2002 |
Oh, PS Ben: Synthetic or petroleum? | ||
| Hans E. Hansen (4re_gt4)
Intermediate Member Username: 4re_gt4 Post Number: 1047 Registered: 4-2002 |
WD-40 works well. "WD" stands for 'Water Displacement'. It's a crappy lubricant, but actually a good rust preventative. Penetrates well. Displaces the water, and coats the metal. Then thickens. The thickening part is what makes it a bad lubricant (try spraying it in a lock - the lock works great for a while, then gums up and quits working). Anyway, I sprayed it liberally into the seam in the bottom of the doors. I don't know if the other cars are made this way, but in a GT4, the bottom of the doors have a metal seam where one sheet of metal is simply folded over another. Perfect place for moisture to gather and not escape. I filled the seam with WD-40. Time will tell. At this point, my GT4 is totally rust free. It's only been in a brief rain shower twice, and never washed with a hose. We'll see. | ||
| Ben Millermon (Brainsboy)
Junior Member Username: Brainsboy Post Number: 219 Registered: 5-2001 |
This is gonna sound hokie but, When I used to work at a body shop if the owners didnt want to replace the door skins, they would poor some 20w50 oil in it, apparently nothing works better to keep rust away then oil. Although I have never done it, I watched them do it a few times, seems to work with out any problems | ||
| "The Don" (Mlemus)
Advanced Member Username: Mlemus Post Number: 3621 Registered: 8-2002 |
Henry, Can you file the area (it's really small) and fill and paint? | ||
| Henryk (Henryk)
Member Username: Henryk Post Number: 626 Registered: 8-2001 |
Spraying rust proofing in the inner door panels only works when the car is new, meaning new metal. Rust is like terminal cancer......it WILL spread. One can cover it up, but not prevent it from spreading. The only sure cure is to replace the panel, and THEN rust proof it. A 20 year old car will have some rust on the inner panels, and oxidation will continue, even under a coating of new rust proofing. | ||
| "The Don" (Mlemus)
Advanced Member Username: Mlemus Post Number: 3611 Registered: 8-2002 |
Me too. I found some rust on the 308 today. It must have thought my car was a 308GT4  | ||
| Hans E. Hansen (4re_gt4)
Intermediate Member Username: 4re_gt4 Post Number: 1043 Registered: 4-2002 |
Mike: I've heard of some GT4s that had naked unpainted inner door panels. Talk about no rust proofing! Mine was painted and has some sort of thick coating in the bottom of the doors. What it has elsewhere is questionable. I'd like to investigate thorough rustproofing, also. | ||
| Mike Procopio (Pupz308)
Member Username: Pupz308 Post Number: 253 Registered: 10-2002 |
I, too, would be interested in this. Certainly there is something we can do on our older cars to give it a fighting chance for the next 20 years of its life? If I'm not mistaken, on the 70s cars, there was really nothing to the car in terms of rust-proofing... | ||
| Paul Jeffery (Peajay)
New member Username: Peajay Post Number: 19 Registered: 4-2002 |
Has anyone been doing rust prevention treatment on their car ? I'm thinking of the products that you can spray inside the chassis door panels etc. that are long term prevention systems. I know of a well known product in the UK that is called WAXOYL which creeps inside cavities and has a sticky oily consistency. Anyone have any advice ?? |