Author |
Message |
Philip Airey (Pma1010)
Junior Member Username: Pma1010
Post Number: 204 Registered: 7-2002
| Posted on Saturday, April 12, 2003 - 10:11 pm: | |
The specs for the fronts on the 308 are to tighten to 2 1/2 kgm and then release, re-tighten to 1 1/2 kgm (about 11 ft lbs). Expect to ruin the nut when you burr the edges over. By the way, the rears are MUCH tighter (150 ft lbs I think) |
Andy Falsetta (Tuttebenne)
Junior Member Username: Tuttebenne
Post Number: 60 Registered: 3-2003
| Posted on Saturday, April 12, 2003 - 9:40 pm: | |
I'm with JohnR. Do it right and buy a new nut. If you reinstall the original one and do everything right, I think you'll be staking the original nut in the area you just re-bent to get it off. A cheap way out is to put a shim between the nut and the bearing so the nut is in a different position when it is at proper torque. But replacing it is the best solution. |
rich (Dino2400)
Junior Member Username: Dino2400
Post Number: 164 Registered: 10-2001
| Posted on Saturday, April 12, 2003 - 9:02 pm: | |
yes, be careful not to overtighten. i don't know the spec for the 308 but on many cars these nuts are supposed to be much less than you'd imagine so perhaps someone can post the correct info here for you? |
JohnR. (Rivee)
Junior Member Username: Rivee
Post Number: 179 Registered: 1-2002
| Posted on Saturday, April 12, 2003 - 6:41 pm: | |
Bill, don't mess with it. Get a new nut. A couple of months after I bought my car I decided to check the bearings. When I took off the grease cap, the bearings fell out into my hand, apparently over tightened or under greased because of the smell of burnt metal So do it right. |
Steve Magnusson (91tr)
Intermediate Member Username: 91tr
Post Number: 1645 Registered: 1-2001
| Posted on Saturday, April 12, 2003 - 6:16 pm: | |
Bill -- Do a better job of staking your new hub nuts (They're supposed to be a "always replace" item, but it doesn't always work out that way so if the deformed area broke off it might not have been a virgin. Not that the initial staking on a fresh part can't be done poorly too -- it makes the "castlenut + cotter pin" hub nut design seem more assembly error-resistant IMO). |
James Selevan (Jselevan)
Member Username: Jselevan
Post Number: 493 Registered: 6-2002
| Posted on Saturday, April 12, 2003 - 5:57 pm: | |
Do you have life insurance? Who is the beneficiary? Getting along okay? Jim S. |
Henryk (Henryk)
Member Username: Henryk
Post Number: 630 Registered: 8-2001
| Posted on Friday, April 11, 2003 - 9:59 pm: | |
Just clean it up, regrease the bearing, and re-torque to the proper number. Don't worry about it!!!!!!!! |
Bill Steele (Glassman)
Junior Member Username: Glassman
Post Number: 191 Registered: 4-2002
| Posted on Friday, April 11, 2003 - 8:35 pm: | |
1983 308 GTS, I had wheel bearing grease leaking out and on to the front left wheel. After removing the wheel and spindle cap I find that the nut is so loose that I unscrewed it by hand! The manual shows that the nut is stamped into a groove on the spindle. The stamped area had come loose, and the metal part was stuck in the grease. I am assuming that I was very close to disaster. Any comments? |