| Author |
Message |
Bill Sebestyen (Bill308)
Member
Username: Bill308
Post Number: 447
Registered: 5-2001
| | Posted on Monday, April 14, 2003 - 9:22 am: | |
Terry,
I used Locktite Thread Locker on mine. I also replaced all the nuts as they felt really sloppy on the studs. The cam bearing cap nuts were mail ordered from Ferrari of Atlanta, about 5-cents each plus a couple of bucks for mail. |
Terry Springer (Tspringer)
Member
Username: Tspringer
Post Number: 450
Registered: 4-2002
| | Posted on Sunday, April 13, 2003 - 11:09 pm: | |
Ben,
Im not doing anything major, just replacing all the cam seals. One was leaking a tiny bit and since its all apart I decided to replace the belts and seals. I chose to remove the cams rather than just the pulleys to minimize the chances of damaging the plastic pulleys. Turns out I will probably need to remove the pulley bolts later anyhow to set the cam timing exactly... and I do have new o rings and lock tabs. Anyhow... just another little project that grows. Funny how that works isnt it!
Verell, I did remove all the cams using a reverse head torque type scheme. Removed each nut 2 turns swapping back and forth from each end of the cam to the center and then working back out. The stud was already broken when I put the socket on it. The nut just lifted right out with a tiny bit of stud in it. I guess someone before over torqued it. Lucky it didnt cause a problem. Easy enough to fix.
Verell, thanks for the tip on the piston positions for the front bank at PM1-4. The rear bank cams are no problem removing or installing as none of the valves are in the fully open position. With none of the front bank pistons near TDC there will be no problem there either. Easy it would appear ;)
Should I use locktite on the cam nuts? Would seem to be overkill? |
Ben Millermon (Brainsboy)
Junior Member
Username: Brainsboy
Post Number: 241
Registered: 5-2001
| | Posted on Sunday, April 13, 2003 - 9:12 pm: | |
Terry what are you doing pulling cams? I thought you were getting your exhuast back on, and getting it back together? |
Verell Boaen (Verell)
Member
Username: Verell
Post Number: 642
Registered: 5-2001
| | Posted on Sunday, April 13, 2003 - 8:21 pm: | |
BTW,
With the engine on PM1-4, you don't have to worry about piston-valve interference when rotating either of the front bank cams. The cams can be safely rotated 360degrees as all 4 front bank pistons are in mid-stroke.
This is NOT the case for the rear bank cams. You do have some leeway, (believe it's 35degrees but it may only be 1/2 that. I don't have my notes handy). |
Verell Boaen (Verell)
Member
Username: Verell
Post Number: 641
Registered: 5-2001
| | Posted on Sunday, April 13, 2003 - 8:12 pm: | |
Terry,
(You probably know this, but just in case.)
CAUTION: The cams are pretty brittle. They've been known to break if the caps aren't uniformly tightened/loosened.
ie: When loosening/tightening the cam caps, turn each cap nut a couple of turns & move on to the next nut, working your way along the length of the cam & back. It's slower, but safer.
A few years back a FerrariLister discovered the problem the hard way. |
Terry Springer (Tspringer)
Member
Username: Tspringer
Post Number: 448
Registered: 4-2002
| | Posted on Sunday, April 13, 2003 - 7:21 pm: | |
I got the stud out. Used brake clean on a rag to get the stud end and 2 nuts squeeky clean, then put the 2 nuts on VERY tight against each other and used locktite on the top nut. Let it dry an hour or so.... came right out no trouble. I hope this stud is a common "ACE Hardware" size... |
James Selevan (Jselevan)
Member
Username: Jselevan
Post Number: 496
Registered: 6-2002
| | Posted on Sunday, April 13, 2003 - 3:13 pm: | |
Terry - as far as pulling the stud, in a pinch (no pun intended) get hold of it with a good pair of vice grips. You should be able to gently turn it back and forth to ease it out. These are small studs and should not be inserted with too much torque. Some lubricant at the base of the stud might help as you work it back and forth. I have pulled a number of stripped studs using a vice grips.
Your last paragraph answering your own question regarding how to install the cam is correct.
Jim S. |
Terry Springer (Tspringer)
Member
Username: Tspringer
Post Number: 446
Registered: 4-2002
| | Posted on Sunday, April 13, 2003 - 1:42 pm: | |
Ooooo boy, it gets even more fun. When removing the front bank exhaust cam I discovered that one of the studs for the cam caps is broken. There is a decent bit of thread left, enough to get 2 nuts on... but so far Ive had zero luck removing the broken stud. I really dont want it to break again close or flush with the head....
This stud is very small, too small for my stud puller. There would be no way to drill it out with the engine in the car. Its looking more and more like this engine will have to come out and apart. |
Terry Springer (Tspringer)
Member
Username: Tspringer
Post Number: 445
Registered: 4-2002
| | Posted on Sunday, April 13, 2003 - 12:22 pm: | |
Quick question.... obviously related to my little mishap removing the front bank intake cam and the nut/washer flying off into oblivion.
When intalling the front bank intake and exhaust cams, in such a way that the timing marks will line up properly so I can install the belts and make everything happy... errrrrrrr exactly how do you get the cam on? One valve will be pretty much fully open when the cam is properly installed. This means that the cam will not just lay into position allowing the caps to be placed on their studs and torqued down.
It would appear the valve spring will need to be compressed somehow in order for the cam to be installed. But without the camshaft or caps in place to provide leverage for a spring compressor that would seem to be a neat trick.
My instinct/experience with other cars tells me to install the camshaft NOT in the correct timing position but in such position that the caps can be positioned and the nuts started and the cam can then be rotated to the correct timing mark without requiring any other valves to open. By this I mean install the cam slightly off from its correct position and then rotate it slightly to the correct position once the caps are torqued down? Im asking rather than just moving ahead with that after the frustration of last night.... |