| Author |
Message |
Steve Magnusson (91tr)
Intermediate Member
Username: 91tr
Post Number: 1682
Registered: 1-2001
| | Posted on Saturday, April 19, 2003 - 7:43 pm: | |
To remove the fuel pump you would either need to drain the fuel tank or somehow obstruct the low pressure line going from the tank to the pump (e.g. squeezing it flat with an external clamp if it's a soft rubber line). Even just to replace the check valve you should do the same -- I just tried "blowing" thru my old fuel pumps, and although not totally free-flowing, it is definitely not closed either. |
Bill V (Doc)
Member
Username: Doc
Post Number: 290
Registered: 9-2001
| | Posted on Saturday, April 19, 2003 - 6:44 pm: | |
Well, I found that I have a minor fuel leak at the banjo fitting of the check valve. Before I replace anything else, I'm going to replace the valve and copper washers as a first step.
Greg--you mentioned that you had to remove your fuel pump to replace the check valve in your car. It looks fairly accessible in my car, an '85. Again, since I've never done this before, what should I watch out for? As I had asked, do i need to depressurize the system in some way before disconnecting lines, etc? Also, if my pump does have to come out, does the fuel tank need draining first ( as I notice a rather large line from the gas tank to the pump).Any step-by step advice would be much appreciated. |
Bill V (Doc)
Member
Username: Doc
Post Number: 287
Registered: 9-2001
| | Posted on Friday, April 18, 2003 - 6:53 pm: | |
While inspecting the area of the fuel pump and accumulator, i just noticed a little bit of gasoline leakage right around a banjo-type fitting. Is this the accumulator or the pump ( it's also right next to a black, rubber nipple or cover) and does this leak suggest that one or the other is bad ? Tomorrow I plan on getting under the car to check the tightness of the fittings--I hope it's that, but I'm guessing that it probably won't be. Any help/ suggestions would be appreciated. |
stephen r chong (Ethans_dad)
Junior Member
Username: Ethans_dad
Post Number: 212
Registered: 3-2002
| | Posted on Friday, April 18, 2003 - 5:01 pm: | |
Bill,
Following my original post on this topic, we had a fchat gathering which resulted in triple digit speeds thru the local canyon roads. I've not since experienced the warm start issues. I was preparing to do all the work you are researching. I think I may have been a little too cautious with the car and bogged it down. This might be a simple and fun fix? |
Bill V (Doc)
Member
Username: Doc
Post Number: 286
Registered: 9-2001
| | Posted on Friday, April 18, 2003 - 3:58 pm: | |
One moe Q--does one have to depressurize the system before loosening the fuel lines from the pump? If so, what's the best way to do it? |
Bill V (Doc)
Member
Username: Doc
Post Number: 285
Registered: 9-2001
| | Posted on Friday, April 18, 2003 - 3:57 pm: | |
Thanks, Greg. Phil--where is the warm-up regulator located and how might one test it? |
Phil Bryson (Phildo)
Junior Member
Username: Phildo
Post Number: 113
Registered: 8-2002
| | Posted on Friday, April 18, 2003 - 9:58 am: | |
Could also be the warm up regulator... |
Greg Rodgers (Joechristmas)
Member
Username: Joechristmas
Post Number: 741
Registered: 3-2001
| | Posted on Friday, April 18, 2003 - 7:08 am: | |
Yes you have to remove the fuel pump to change the check valve. It is in a bracket with the accumulator. I removed both with the bracket. I had to find a special check valve for my QV. It looked more like a union than the banjo type check valve. They are around $30 for the check valve. The accum. is around $85 or so. HTHS. |
Bill V (Doc)
Member
Username: Doc
Post Number: 284
Registered: 9-2001
| | Posted on Friday, April 18, 2003 - 6:50 am: | |
I've experienced an episodic difficulty in starting my '85 qv once it is warmed up and has been briefly shut down for a gas stop. It'll crank and not catch until I start a second cranking--then it fires right up. This is only occasional and the cold start is perfect.
In a previous thread, the conclusion seemed to be that the fuel pump check valve and/ or accumulator are the usual culprits with this type of problem.
How much of a job is it to replace these parts and approx what are the costs of the parts? Is it necessary to remove the fuel pump to replace the check valve? Are any special tools or techniques required for a backyard mechanic? |