| Author | Message | ||
| Lee Hamner (Tennlee)
New member Username: Tennlee Post Number: 48 Registered: 2-2002 |
Thanks everyone. I used the prescribed method and was able to change all the plugs. Here's the mistake I did make. On the first new plug I put back in the front bank, I didn't realize I needed to unscrew the little "nub" on the end so the Ferrari plug wire would attach! I had to remove a "5th" front bank plug! I was happy I didn't put in the other three before trying on a plug wire first, though! | ||
| Charles I Claussen (Atlantaman)
Junior Member Username: Atlantaman Post Number: 124 Registered: 3-2002 |
If you can find an old Porsche 911 spark plug socket it makes life a lot easier--it has a swivel and is pretty easy to work with in the tight area | ||
| Mike Procopio (Pupz308)
Member Username: Pupz308 Post Number: 325 Registered: 10-2002 |
IYHO, of course. Now here's a great example of where the pseduo-anonymity makes us feel all wise and whatnot. Not all people grew up with valves and camshafts, Andy. I'll learn on whatever I can. BTW, in case you were going for the Italian thing, "tuttebenne" isn't correct. I've got a good book or two on Italian I can recommend if you'd like.  | ||
| Andy Falsetta (Tuttebenne)
Junior Member Username: Tuttebenne Post Number: 95 Registered: 3-2003 |
IMHO If one needs a book to determine how to torque a spark plug in an aluminum head, one shouldn't be attempting the job. Learn on something less expensive. | ||
| Mike Procopio (Pupz308)
Member Username: Pupz308 Post Number: 324 Registered: 10-2002 |
Interesting that the general principle is different. The principle is that you have to "break in" new washer seals, either by tightening a lot, and then tightening to a lesser torque, or tightening "in steps", starting with a smaller torque and then finishing with a final, stronger torque. There should be one right answer for all cars, shouldn't there? Anybody with broader mechanical skills have any insight? | ||
| jeff ryerson (Atheyg)
Junior Member Username: Atheyg Post Number: 225 Registered: 8-2002 |
Ferrari changed it for the 328, or later series, the torque specs I quoted were from pg 70 of my owners manual | ||
| Mike Procopio (Pupz308)
Member Username: Pupz308 Post Number: 321 Registered: 10-2002 |
No, that is NOT what the workshop manual says. According to the 308GT4 workshop manual, on page L17: "WARNING - Prior to fitting the spark plugs, make sure that their threads are lightly coated with graphite grease. If the sealing washer is new, first tighten to a maximum torque of 1,5 kgm., then slacken and re-tighten to 2 kgm." Now, I don't have the experience to tell whether or not this is logical, but it is what the manual says (and the manual has been known to be wrong). So according to the manual, if the washer is new, you tighten to 11 ft-lbs, loosen, and retighten to 15 ft-lbs.  | ||
| jeff ryerson (Atheyg)
Junior Member Username: Atheyg Post Number: 223 Registered: 8-2002 |
Mike you have it backwards, if the washer is new, which most are, you tighten to 15lbs loosen and retighten to 12ft lbs and the manual states to make sure they are coated with graphite grease | ||
| Mike Procopio (Pupz308)
Member Username: Pupz308 Post Number: 320 Registered: 10-2002 |
NOTE: I think that Jeff's information on tightening torques is wrong. The workshop manual states that if the sealing washers are new, tighten to a maximum of 1.5kgm (11 ft-lbs), then slacken and re-tighten to 2kgm (15 ft-lbs). Seems that 15 ft-lbs is the tightening torque for putting back plugs after checking them. | ||
| Verell Boaen (Verell)
Member Username: Verell Post Number: 646 Registered: 5-2001 |
Don't forget to put a thin film of anti-sieze compound on the spark plug threads before re-installing. I smear it on the threads, then wipe off any that's extending above the tips of the threads. Try to make sure no compound gets into the cylinder as it some compounds will poison O2 sensors. | ||
| jeff ryerson (Atheyg)
Junior Member Username: Atheyg Post Number: 222 Registered: 8-2002 |
I used the factory wrench from the pass rear side for all 3 and drivers side for the last plug, worked well The most important part is retightening with a quality Torque wrench that is accurate for the 10-15 lbs torque, you need to tighten them to 15lbs loosen and retighten to 13lbs, its very easy to strip the aluminum heads if you do not use the torque wrench or overtighten them and cause damage in the threads after heat cycling when they stick the next time they are changed | ||
| Andy Falsetta (Tuttebenne)
Junior Member Username: Tuttebenne Post Number: 79 Registered: 3-2003 |
In thinking about the other postings I would agree that you need to be careful of the bodywork. I didn't mention that its also a good idea to drape a heavy cloth over the sides of the car so any belt buckle or buttons on your clothes won't scratch the paint. The cloth could be taped in place so it doesn't fall off. Since I have a GTB I haven't had the opportunity to try standing in the car. I do a couple of plugs from one side of the car and the remaining ones from the other side. | ||
| david handa (Davehanda)
Member Username: Davehanda Post Number: 662 Registered: 5-2001 |
Oops, sorry, I assumed you were doing it between the rear window and engine cover. You would need some loooong arms to reach over the air cleaner, even with it removed. BTW, I tried the "over the roof" technique, and rested my elbows on the roof (with a bath towel) and made a bunch of small dents in the roof (metal is rather thin). Spent a few $$$ at the dent wizard having them removed. I prefer working from the sides now... | ||
| DJParks (Djparks)
Junior Member Username: Djparks Post Number: 189 Registered: 2-2003 |
Thanks for the tips guys DJ | ||
| Roderick Keeler (Dr_carguy)
New member Username: Dr_carguy Post Number: 15 Registered: 8-2002 |
I, like Andy, use the method of going between the rear window and the front of the open engine cover. On my GTSi, I removed the targa top, stood inside the car, and leaned over to access the plugs. Made the process very easy. Rod | ||
| Andy Falsetta (Tuttebenne)
Junior Member Username: Tuttebenne Post Number: 78 Registered: 3-2003 |
Lee, Here's what I do. I perform the removal and installation through the gap between the engine cover and the rear window gutter. Its way too difficult to do "over" the air cleaner IMHO. You can leave it in place. If there is a trick to this its in the tools you use and the preparation. First, use some compressed air to blow any debris out of the "tube" the plug is located in. This will prevent the debris from falling into the cylinder once the plug is taken out. Make sure you have a good socket with an insert that will hold the plug securely. This is important because its difficult (but not impossible) to "fish" out the plug if it falls in. You'll need a short extension to attach to the socket that allows the end of the extension to protrude past the plane of the cam cover. To prevent the socket from separating from the extension when you pull the socket off the installed plug, just duct tape the extension and socket together. To remove a plug, first lower the duct taped socket/extension into the tube and position it on the plug, then attach your ratchet to the extension and loosen the plug. Hopefully you will be able to spin the plug out by hand and will separate the ratchet from the extension to do so. Otherwise, the job is simple as long as you are used to threading plugs with your eyes closed. To make sure you don't scratch the paint, you can put masking tape along the edge of the engine cover and remove any watch, jewelry, or shirt sleeves that might scratch paint. Remember to coat the threads on the new plug with anti-seize compound. And if you should accidentally drop a plug, re-check the gap before installing it. Hopefully it will not have been damaged. If you have any other questions you can email me. Good luck and "Long live the Carburetted 308s"! | ||
| david handa (Davehanda)
Member Username: Davehanda Post Number: 659 Registered: 5-2001 |
It is a little tight, but you can do it with the factory spark plug tool. It is sort of done blind. You can do the three closest on the passenger side, just stand facing to the rear as you work. Do the last one from the driver's side... | ||
| Lee Hamner (Tennlee)
New member Username: Tennlee Post Number: 42 Registered: 2-2002 |
Is there a trick? I naturally took out the rear bank's plugs and that was easy. The front bank looks like I need to hire a smurf. I have a '79 carbed model. I tried searching for plug removal and found nothing? Do you do it "blind", only feeling your way around? I've taken the airbox off. Thanks for any advice! |