| Author | Message | ||
| Carl Rose (Carl_rose)
Junior Member Username: Carl_rose Post Number: 108 Registered: 10-2002 |
Thanks guys! (I'll try to avoid the dreaded "springus popoutous" phenomenon...  !) Carl | ||
| Verell Boaen (Verell)
Member Username: Verell Post Number: 688 Registered: 5-2001 |
re:"It is neccesary to roll the lip on, in a back and forth or twisting motion" I agree, seemed so obvious I forgot to mention it. Thanks, it probably really isn't obvious to a rookie. However, even with twisting, I've had the spring pop out. Everything that will encourage that little spring to stay in place while sliding it into place will help. | ||
| JRV (Jrvall)
Intermediate Member Username: Jrvall Post Number: 1381 Registered: 11-2002 |
>>I'm presuming the seal has to be tapped into the distributor "flange" prior to installation, no? << Ohhhh Yeaaaaaaa...;-) | ||
| Carl Rose (Carl_rose)
Junior Member Username: Carl_rose Post Number: 107 Registered: 10-2002 |
Thanks JRV & Mr. Boaen - this was exactly the advice I was looking for. Probably will try the large socket trick. I'm presuming the seal has to be tapped into the distributor "flange" prior to installation, no? Thanks again, Carl | ||
| JRV (Jrvall)
Intermediate Member Username: Jrvall Post Number: 1377 Registered: 11-2002 |
>>To help ensure the spring stays in place, you want to keep the spring & inside of the seal lip bone dry while slipping the seal onto the end of the cam. << IME if the spring is popping out it's not from some form of lubrication, but rather a rolling of the lip itself upon instalation, generally caused by trying to push the seal striaght in/on. It is neccesary to roll the lip on, in a back and forth or twisting motion to allow the natural shape of the rubber some action in order for the lip to pop onto it's riding surface properly and prevent springus popoutus.. | ||
| Verell Boaen (Verell)
Member Username: Verell Post Number: 666 Registered: 5-2001 |
The most common thing that can go wrong is that the seal gets tilted slightly while sliding onto the end of the cam & the little spring inside of the seal comes off. It's downhill from there. While you want the cam & seal lip lubricated (I prefer synthetic motor oil) as JRV describes. To help ensure the spring stays in place, you want to keep the spring & inside of the seal lip bone dry while slipping the seal onto the end of the cam. ------------------- Hmm, here's a wild, off the wall thought: What would happen if you removed the spring, gave it a thin smear of of hylomar, & re-installedd it inside the seal. Sticky as hylomar is, I think it'd tend to hold the spring in place pretty well, yet still allow the spring to do it's tensioning job. | ||
| JRV (Jrvall)
Intermediate Member Username: Jrvall Post Number: 1374 Registered: 11-2002 |
Carl, the sizes are molded on the seals themselves....also the direction of use should be indicated on the seals by a small arrow moulded in. If the seal is leaking after such a short period of time it's likely it was installed in the housing wrong or onto the cam end wrong. Installing seals correctly must be done slowly and carefully, and as flat and even all the way around as possible with a seal installer or homemade equivilent (tool that rides flat on outer most seal surface, like an old wheel bearing race or large socket) . Then, to install on the engine the seal must be greased with vaseline or other grease to prevent the contact lip from galling on start up and allow the seal to slip over it's running race. The seal once lubed is simply very carefully slipped up onto it's riding surface in such a manner as to not cock the lip as you mentioned. Then an eyeball inspection to insure it's just right , if so, tighten the housing. | ||
| Carl Rose (Carl_rose)
Junior Member Username: Carl_rose Post Number: 106 Registered: 10-2002 |
Along these same lines, is there a difference between the Testarossa seal (red #132452) and 328/Mondial version (black #132453)- I have been told dimensions identical? Service bulletin mentions unidirectional seals but then lists single part #? I remain confused. Carl | ||
| Carl Rose (Carl_rose)
Junior Member Username: Carl_rose Post Number: 105 Registered: 10-2002 |
Hi again everyone, Removed the distributor caps to brush the rotors & cap terminals Sat PM & noted small amount of oil inside 5-8 cap. Did a search through the archives & apparently this is a relatively common problem. 30k service performed FoH about 250mi ago & I think they may have encountered the same problem (told 5-8 cam seal leak delayed completion). No oil trail leading from rotor mount, just a small amount visible near the "weep hole" in the dist mounting flange. After reading of others experiences apparently this is *not* necessarily a straightforward job...invite everyone's advice before going in: 1. I'm presuming the seal is unique to F-car & intend on ordering today. True? 2. Also apparently there is a special factory tool to prevent seal lip from rolling on installation. What does it looks like? Any FC folks willing to let me beg/borrow/rent/loan/buy theirs? 3. Several posts mentioned lubricating then "turning" seal onto shaft. I'm presuming it is tapped into distributor flange first? 4. Anyone ever found source for internal cap terminal parts? 5. Finally...the leak is small, and others have mentioned profound leaks from this small spot. In the back of my mind I consider the possibility of turning what is currently a small leak into a big leak..! As always, any & all advice appreciated. Perhaps have to do a pictorial of this job too.. Thanks, Carl 1988 328 |