| Author | Message | ||
| Luigi Nicoletti (2mmuch)
Junior Member Username: 2mmuch Post Number: 57 Registered: 9-2002 |
Jeff They where in the fuse panel, tucked behind alot of wires. | ||
| Steve Magnusson (91tr)
Intermediate Member Username: 91tr Post Number: 1742 Registered: 1-2001 |
Glad you found the trouble Lou -- the stock TR electrical system has got enough troubles without those extra "previous-Owner modifications"  . Jeff -- thanks for the compliment! | ||
| Jeff Green (Carguy)
Member Username: Carguy Post Number: 252 Registered: 10-2002 |
Luigi...if I may ask, where were these fuses? Up front in the trunk area? How far did you have to trace the wires before finding the fuses? I also have a TR and am always on the quest for more knowledge about these cars. By the way, Steve always amazes me with his helpful posts, so specific and informative. He is a real asset to this board. | ||
| Luigi Nicoletti (2mmuch)
Junior Member Username: 2mmuch Post Number: 56 Registered: 9-2002 |
Just a follow up on what I found. Did all the test and they all came up negitive, so I went in starting with the y connector. I noticed the 2 red wires you mentioned have been spliced, so I traced them and found 2 inline fuses both 15A and one on each wire. Opened them up and both where blown. Replace one and my right side brake lights came back, replace the other and presto, the left side works. So now the question is why did the previous own put them there? I think i'll do some volt and amp testing on that system and maybe come up with some conclusion. Once again Steve. Thanks alot for your help. | ||
| Steve Magnusson (91tr)
Intermediate Member Username: 91tr Post Number: 1727 Registered: 1-2001 |
Unfortunately, there is more stuff in the TR brake light food-chain to go wrong -- Relay S ("key services"), some ignition switch involvement, and several passes for many of the lines thru the infamous fuse/relay panel connectors. A few (hopefully easy) tests to determine which way to look: TEST#1 unplug fuse #23 turn key "on" (but don't start engine) measure the voltage on the two female sockets of the #23 fuse position -- one of them should be +12V relative to a suitable ground if both remain 0V do TEST#2 -- TEST#2 turn key "off" unplug Relay S measure the voltage on the Relay S female socket where the 87 tab (bottommost horizontal tab IIRC) of the relay would be -- this socket should be +12V all the time. If you fail TEST#1 and pass TEST#2, try TEST#3 -- TEST#3 Swap the ...113 Relay S with another ...113 Relay from the panel Plug everything else back in key "on" see if the brake lights work If you want to dig deeper on your own, the other players are: Connector "y" fourth position from left (2 R red wires) -- power to the rear lights that has passed thru (an energized) Relay S, fuse #23, and a closed brake light switch Connector "w" second from bottom (1 AN light blue/black wire) -- power from a closed "on" ignition switch to energize Relay S (puts +12V on terminal 85 of Relay S) Connector "w" third from bottom (1 R red wire) -- power from a closed brake light switch that exits via the y connector to the rear brake lights Connector "w" eighth from bottom (1 LN blue/black wire) -- power from fuse #23 to the brake light switch But the results of tests above should get you going in the right direction. (PS the "w" connector is the vertical connector on the US Driver's Side of the fuse/relay panel) | ||
| Luigi Nicoletti (2mmuch)
Junior Member Username: 2mmuch Post Number: 55 Registered: 9-2002 |
Out driving around this past Sunday when someone told me my rear brake lights weren't working. I checked the fuse box and the 15A fuse was burnt out. I replaced it but they still don't work. I check the brake switch and it's fine. I check all the lights and they are fine to. What am I missing? |