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Verell Boaen (Verell)
Member
Username: Verell

Post Number: 698
Registered: 5-2001
Posted on Sunday, May 04, 2003 - 10:09 am:   

The twin heater cores tend to be where the large air pockets form. That's why elevating the front of the car by about a foot really helps. I used to put my front wheels up on ramps.
Andrew A. Illes (Andyilles)
New member
Username: Andyilles

Post Number: 12
Registered: 10-2002
Posted on Thursday, May 01, 2003 - 6:30 pm:   

:-)
Bill V (Doc)
Member
Username: Doc

Post Number: 305
Registered: 9-2001
Posted on Thursday, May 01, 2003 - 6:18 pm:   

Well, problem solved. You guys were right--I had a giant air pocket in the system, thanks to my not refilling properly. Everything is back to normal . Once again, my hat is off to Ferrari Chat.
DJParks (Djparks)
Junior Member
Username: Djparks

Post Number: 217
Registered: 2-2003
Posted on Thursday, May 01, 2003 - 11:52 am:   

Make sure you operate the car long enough for the thermostat to open. This will indicate the instant the water is circulated from the engine to the radiator and back to the engine resulting in flushing those big airpockets out of the system.
I noticed a rise in water tempurature (using a candy thermometer)in the header tank (at the rear of the car) as soon as the thermostat opened. I also saw the water level drop in the header tank a minute later. I added water and continued to run the car, opened the bleeder screw on the radiator 4-5 times and the bleeder bolt on the T-stat a couple of times. I got air each time until the last check. The fans came on at 190 degrees. Temp measured at the header tank.
This entire operation took 1/2 hour.
Hope this helps, DJ
Andrew A. Illes (Andyilles)
New member
Username: Andyilles

Post Number: 6
Registered: 10-2002
Posted on Thursday, May 01, 2003 - 11:02 am:   

Dave Handa and Ken Ross have it right, but something needs to be added. Be sure the top bleed screw Dave mentioned is open WHILE you're filling... and keep filling until liquid exits there. Then, like Ken said, check the level again after you run the car, and this time, check that only liquid - not air - exits that upper radiator bleed screw.

Andy
Hans E. Hansen (4re_gt4)
Intermediate Member
Username: 4re_gt4

Post Number: 1218
Registered: 4-2002
Posted on Thursday, May 01, 2003 - 9:52 am:   

Like Dave said, make sure the car is on an upslope. I elevate the right front more so than the left by parking slightly sideways on the slope. Leave the engine running, so (hopefully) any air will migrate to the rad. Maybe even give it a quick rev or two to get the water really circulating.

I'm just getting my car out of the shop, and, since they changed the coolant, I'll have to do this a time or two over the next couple of days.
Bill V (Doc)
Member
Username: Doc

Post Number: 304
Registered: 9-2001
Posted on Thursday, May 01, 2003 - 6:54 am:   

Thanks for the tips, guys. Let me update you on something interesting. Yesterday, I refilled the system to the rec'd level , i.e. w / i 2"-3"of the tank's neck. I also did open the bleed scew once after the car warmed up and pure fluid came out, indicating that there was no excessive air, I presume. HOWEVER, this moring I checked the coolant level and found it to be down by almost a gallon!!! I was shocked to say the least.

Could this suggest that there was a large air pocket in the system yesterday? If so, I guess it would confirm Dave's hypothesis--that air could have kept the coolant from contacting the sensor / switch (?) I also checked the connections on the switch this morning , cleaned them, and applied a bit of Stabilant-22. Since I'm off to the office, I didn't have time to start her up. I will this evening though.

Ken Ross (Kdross)
Member
Username: Kdross

Post Number: 330
Registered: 2-2002
Posted on Wednesday, April 30, 2003 - 9:02 pm:   

Bill:

David is 100% correct, however, you may need to bleed the system several times to get all of the air out. There is also a bleeder screw on the thermostat housing in the engine compartment.

Ken
Ben Millermon (Brainsboy)
Member
Username: Brainsboy

Post Number: 283
Registered: 5-2001
Posted on Wednesday, April 30, 2003 - 8:59 pm:   

Sounds like a bad ground or wire not connected. Did you check the wire connections? Pull them off and reconnect them making sure they are tight.
david handa (Davehanda)
Member
Username: Davehanda

Post Number: 687
Registered: 5-2001
Posted on Wednesday, April 30, 2003 - 8:56 pm:   

You need to bleed the air out. There is a bleed screw at the top right side (back) of the radiator. It helps to park the car on a slight grade (like a driveway) and have the front of the car elevated a little.

Air means the hot fluid is not in contact with the thermo switch.
Bill V (Doc)
Member
Username: Doc

Post Number: 303
Registered: 9-2001
Posted on Wednesday, April 30, 2003 - 7:50 pm:   

I just drained/ refilled the cooling system of my '85 308 with a mixture of Red Line Water Wetter and about 15%-20% coolant. After finishing up, I started the car up for a warm-up/ test drive and noticed that the temp rapidly climbed to nearly 250 degrees as the fans didn't kick on! Upon immediately getting back home I shut it off and turned the switch to the on position and the fans kicked on, cooling down the engine. After waiting a few minutes, started it up again and, once again, the fans didn't come again. Nor did they come on after I tried to engage them with the ignition switch. The temp was way beyond the usual 195 point at this point.

Does anyone have any ideas what could have happened? I drained the system via the radiator plug--and then flushed all of the excess coolant away with a hose. Is the electrical connector/ sensor located in the lower right radiator associated with the fan operation and could getting this wet with either coolant or water hurt it in any way? Before this coolant change everythig worked perfectly. Any ideas/ in put/ help would be much appreciated as always.

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