| Author |
Message |
Verell Boaen (Verell)
Member
Username: Verell
Post Number: 697
Registered: 5-2001
| | Posted on Sunday, May 04, 2003 - 10:04 am: | |
1-person bleeding is easy with a 'Mity-Vac' setup. Available from Eastwood, Sears, & most auto parts stores.
Pay the extra $$ for the version that can both pull a vacuum & also pressure test.
I vote for PB Blaster & heating the nipple, but shy of red hot. The heat causes the nipple to expand which tends to slightly enlarge the hole in the caliper, breaking the corrosion around the threads loose. Use PB Blaster to cool the area down. The heat will speed up it's penetration, and the thermal shock will help break the corrosion loose. |
Steve (Steve)
Member
Username: Steve
Post Number: 367
Registered: 2-2001
| | Posted on Sunday, May 04, 2003 - 7:29 am: | |
What is the thread size and the part number for the speed bleeders? Also how much $'s. |
Mike Procopio (Pupz308)
Member
Username: Pupz308
Post Number: 346
Registered: 10-2002
| | Posted on Sunday, May 04, 2003 - 3:44 am: | |
I, too, use speed bleeders for my brake calipers now. Bleeding is still a pain in the arse, but it's quite possible to do it with one person. $.02.
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Mark Foley (Sparky)
New member
Username: Sparky
Post Number: 47
Registered: 3-2002
| | Posted on Sunday, May 04, 2003 - 2:07 am: | |
I would try that PB Blaster--the stuff is amazing.
If that doesn't work, I would heat the screw red hot a few times with an oxy/acetylene torch. IMHO, I would not directly heat the caliper for fear of overheating the seals, etc.
Also, Edelbrock has some replacement bleeder screws "Speed Bleeders"that have a check ball valve in them that permits a one-man brake bleeding.
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Terry Springer (Tspringer)
Member
Username: Tspringer
Post Number: 476
Registered: 4-2002
| | Posted on Sunday, May 04, 2003 - 1:20 am: | |
PB Blaster. |
billy bob (Fatbillybob)
Member
Username: Fatbillybob
Post Number: 259
Registered: 8-2002
| | Posted on Saturday, May 03, 2003 - 9:15 pm: | |
Here is the secret on any stuck fastner. You spray wd-40 on the bleeder. Then you heat the caliper with a propane torch but not red hot. This will suck the wd-40 into the rusted interface. Let cool and it will come right out...no problem. |
JohnR. (Rivee)
Junior Member
Username: Rivee
Post Number: 190
Registered: 1-2002
| | Posted on Saturday, May 03, 2003 - 8:52 pm: | |
Paul, are you using a brake line wrench to loosen? The kind that's 3/4 of a box end wrench. |
James J. McGee (Dr_ferrari)
Junior Member
Username: Dr_ferrari
Post Number: 87
Registered: 7-2002
| | Posted on Saturday, May 03, 2003 - 8:32 pm: | |
Craig, yea, maybe that will work, never tried it
Michael, I will have to try that stuff,
Regards, Jim |
michaelthuber (Mikehuber)
New member
Username: Mikehuber
Post Number: 13
Registered: 3-2003
| | Posted on Saturday, May 03, 2003 - 7:08 pm: | |
I would try Aero Kroil, made by Kano Labratories. It is guaranteed to get into spaces as small a 1/1,000,000". I have a can and it has never failed me. I used to mess around with Street Rods that were 1949 or earlier vintage so I ran into alot of rusted or siezed fasteners. I know the bleeder screws are tapered, but I think you will find it works on them too. It specifically mentions pipe threads on the can label. I actually liberated the can I have from my former workplace when I had a very rusted bolt I couldn't get out of a '46 Ford Coupe after using other penetrating oils and heating it until very red. You can order it directly from Kano Laboratories @ ph. 615 833 4101. It cost very little. |
Craig (Beachbum)
Junior Member
Username: Beachbum
Post Number: 117
Registered: 9-2002
| | Posted on Saturday, May 03, 2003 - 8:50 am: | |
would a little nitrogen spray on the bleeder help, try to shrink the bleeder
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Mike Procopio (Pupz308)
Member
Username: Pupz308
Post Number: 343
Registered: 10-2002
| | Posted on Friday, May 02, 2003 - 10:34 pm: | |
Proceed with caution. I was in the same boat--78 308--the screw broke off. Broke an Easy-out bolt extractor inside... I explored every option... Including heating it out, zapping it out, resleeving, etc. Eventually, I bought rebuilt calipers from T-rutlands (and exchanged the old ones as cores).
And that, my friend, was the most expensive bleeder screw I ever bought! ;)
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James J. McGee (Dr_ferrari)
Junior Member
Username: Dr_ferrari
Post Number: 83
Registered: 7-2002
| | Posted on Friday, May 02, 2003 - 9:54 pm: | |
Paul,
Lightly heat the caliper case around the bleeder screw (this will expand the metal around the bleeder). Then tap lightly on the top of the bleeder with a small hammer two or three times to break away any corrosion on the threads. then try to loosen.
That should work, always works for me.
best regards and good luck.
Jim
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Andy Falsetta (Tuttebenne)
Junior Member
Username: Tuttebenne
Post Number: 111
Registered: 3-2003
| | Posted on Friday, May 02, 2003 - 8:57 pm: | |
I've had good success heating the bleeder screw until its red, then trying to loosen it. If it doesn't move, your out of luck and should take the whole caliper to a reputable rebuilder to have it taken care of. Yes they are "wimpy" but the problem is more that people over tighten them. |
Paul Jeffery (Peajay)
New member
Username: Peajay
Post Number: 30
Registered: 4-2002
| | Posted on Friday, May 02, 2003 - 12:46 pm: | |
Sorry about the typo in the title, seems you can't edit the title ? |
Paul Jeffery (Peajay)
New member
Username: Peajay
Post Number: 29
Registered: 4-2002
| | Posted on Friday, May 02, 2003 - 12:40 pm: | |
I just bought my 1987 328 and the brakes feel spongy so I decided one of my first jobs will be to bleed the brakes. The very first wheel (rear passenger side) bleed nipple is not happy to come out, I put some release oil on and left it overnight but no luck ! I fear that if I force a little more it will snap off. Why do they always make these so wimpy ??
Anyone have any advice ? |