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Paul DeVivo (Pdevivo)
New member
Username: Pdevivo

Post Number: 23
Registered: 9-2002
Posted on Tuesday, May 20, 2003 - 11:20 pm:   

I'd like to bleed the coolant on my 87 TR and actually found the bleeder valve - between the crossover pipes and below the rear window. Can someone give me a few ideas on how to reach it??? Looks like a tough spot to get to.

Thanks
Steve Magnusson (91tr)
Intermediate Member
Username: 91tr

Post Number: 1763
Registered: 1-2001
Posted on Friday, May 09, 2003 - 9:21 am:   

Vincent -- check your 348 OM (or get it off the Owner's Site) -- it should have a cooling system illustration with the bleed port(s) labeled.
Mike Charness (Mcharness)
Member
Username: Mcharness

Post Number: 500
Registered: 8-2002
Posted on Friday, May 09, 2003 - 5:11 am:   

Chris: Like you, I bleed my 308QV with the radiator cap on.
Vincent (Vincent348)
Junior Member
Username: Vincent348

Post Number: 243
Registered: 4-2003
Posted on Friday, May 09, 2003 - 12:41 am:   

Ok,

Now I'm curious. Where is the bleeder valve on a 348.

thanks,
Chris F. (Chrisfromri)
New member
Username: Chrisfromri

Post Number: 41
Registered: 1-2003
Posted on Thursday, May 08, 2003 - 10:24 pm:   

In my personal experience today leaving the expansion tank pressure cap off a 308 QV while trying to bleed the cooling system does not work for three reasons: 1. The radiator fans never turn on since the radiator does not get warm enough. 2. The heater cores don't ever get warm either. 3. The expansion tank soon overflows with the cap off -- messy.

Apparently, the pressure cap is necessary for the whole system to properly pressurize the long coolant lines that run the length of the car.

Reinstalling the pressure cap after filling the expansion tank to the brim does avoid these three problems. Upon shutting down the engine (after radiator fans have started and the heater is pumping out heat) the expansion tank will overflow from its overflow tube, finding its normal level. Allow to cool, then bleed any air from radiator bleeder and thermostat housing bleeder.

Repeat by filling expansion tank to brim and reinstalling pressure cap. Run until fans start and heater is hot. Bleed again after engine has cooled.

Twice seems enough.

Kind Regards, Chris
will h (Willh)
New member
Username: Willh

Post Number: 25
Registered: 3-2003
Posted on Wednesday, May 07, 2003 - 10:35 am:   

A little OT - Out of curiousity, unlike Collin, I have truly stupid questions, like how do you change rotors/pads on a 360, etc. Is there a FAQ somewhere I can consult for that model, or is this the kind of thing you get a fellow owner to show you? Thanks.
James Glickenhaus (Napolis)
Intermediate Member
Username: Napolis

Post Number: 1234
Registered: 10-2002
Posted on Wednesday, May 07, 2003 - 9:54 am:   

JRV
My MK-IV has a line from the top of the radiator to the top of the Rad fill tank which is above the engine and the rad which seems to help keep the system bled.
Best
Jim
Ken (Allyn)
Member
Username: Allyn

Post Number: 866
Registered: 10-2001
Posted on Wednesday, May 07, 2003 - 9:17 am:   

Some mid engine tips: I park on an incline nose up, and that helps get the air out the front radiator bleeder valve. Then park nose down and that helps get air into the swirl pot (do Ferraris have a swirl pot?) and out. Remember to have the heater on full blast BTW if your car uses coolant to heat the heater (as I assume all cars do), and disconnecting the heater hose at the valve (should be by the engine) with the butt higher than the radiator also gets air out. Be sure the coolant is still cold or you'll get a nasty burn!
Joel Belser (Driver)
New member
Username: Driver

Post Number: 38
Registered: 9-2002
Posted on Wednesday, May 07, 2003 - 8:40 am:   

On the money, JRV! The fans will not go on as air happens to collect in just the right location!!!
JRV (Jrvall)
Intermediate Member
Username: Jrvall

Post Number: 1390
Registered: 11-2002
Posted on Saturday, May 03, 2003 - 9:55 am:   

Collin,

all the mid engined cars have bleeder valves either on the radiators in front or coolant crossover pipes in back that have to be bled 3-4 times a year to let trapped air escape...other wise they will run much warmer than they should, or need to.

The proper way to bleed the cooling systems vary slightly depending on time of year and system, but generally the drill is:

With engine cold, remove cap, start engine and view level, fill tank to full, find and open bleeder valve until all air bubbles stop, close, continue to fill and bleed with cap off until fans comes on, top up and replace cap, tighten valve...done.
Andrew A. Illes (Andyilles)
New member
Username: Andyilles

Post Number: 21
Registered: 10-2002
Posted on Saturday, May 03, 2003 - 12:24 am:   

"Bleeding the coolant tank" just means getting the air out of the system, Collin. How to go about that depends on what car you have.. front or mid-engine. Front-engine cars are easy... mid-engine ones are trickier, but the idea is the same... get the air out.
Collin Hays (Chaysintexas)
Junior Member
Username: Chaysintexas

Post Number: 103
Registered: 4-2002
Posted on Friday, May 02, 2003 - 11:13 pm:   

I know it's probably a stupid question, but I have been doing a lot of reading on here regarding losing coolant from the overflow tank. Some have asked "have you bled your coolant tank lately" or something to that effect.

What does that mean exactly, how do you do it (specifically), and what difference does it make in the operation of the cooling system?? Thanks everyone.

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